Alphius

Right on the I-5 corridor, west of the Cascades. Thanks guys! I like this wagon a lot.

Body has 244k miles. Motor only 55k though. '96 Legacy Wagon

Durania got it right. 16" 2.5RS wheels. Body has 244k miles on it! And original paint still.

I have an '87 Turbo Wagon, and I decided I wanted something newer and nicer. I already have a Camaro that's a project, and I didn't need two project cars. It's a 1996 Subaru Legacy wagon. AWD and 5-speed. I just went skiing with it last weekend and it did great in the snow! The plan for the next few years is to drive it as is. It's a stock 2.2l that runs really good, only 55k on the motor. Maybe in a few years when I'm all rich and everything I'll make it a sleeper and drop an STi drivetrain in it. Here's some pics:

I have a full set also. They fit fine on my '87 Wagon. Weren't they only supposed to go on EA81 and earlier correctly? Something about not clearing the disk brakes I thought. Oh well, mine work great. Maybe I'm just lucky. ivantruckman, Yes, they do have a "J" logo on every wheel. One spoke per wheel will have it facing out closer to the bead than to the center of the wheel. They are also "flatter" across the spokes than the more "rounded" wagon wheels which were Subaru stock wheels.

Hey! This was actually a good friend of mine that owned this car. I didn't expect the buyer to be on USMB though Nice to see you here. I know quite a bit about what was done with the car, so if you have any questions about stuff on it, go ahead and ask me. I just might know. One big thing that comes to mind is, it's got a homebuilt manual boost controller that I built, and it's set to around 11-12 PSI instead of the stock 7. The motor has also been fully resealed. Good luck with the car! I was sad to see it go when my friend sold it. You got a great deal too... I almost bought it from him for my '87 T-Wagon. EJ22T swap FTW

Maybe he's gonna rewire the markers to be turn signals? That would make sense to me if I were to get rid of my turn signals. Use a dual filament bulb and some wiring work. I've never really like how Subaru didn't do that from the factory...

Awesome! Looks like it's in pretty good shape. Still have the air suspension? My friend wants to get an XT or XT6 too. Hope you like it!

I was doing some searching about my 5speed D/R swap, and came across a thread from a long time ago with unbelievable prices on Subaru parts. The website was PartsQuick.com, and everyone was convinced it was a scam, because they were offering things like clutch discs for $9 and several sensors and gaskets for $.02. Some people decided to give it a shot just to see what would happen, and their parts were actually shipped! Anyway, after all that, I decided to give it a shot since I need a new pressure plate and clutch disk anyway. The prices weren't quite as good as before, but I ended up ordering a clutch, PP, and shaft bearing for $65. That was last night, and this morning I got tracking information and order confirmation emails from them. So I'm hoping to have scored a great deal on some overstocked company's parts. If you want, I'll keep you posted on whether I receive the parts or not. Should be here by Thursday or so. ALSO: I just found the thread again. Here ya go. http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=85996

OK, let me get this straight then. All Turbo Subarus use a 25 spline axle on the transmission end. All non-Turbo use a 23 spline axle. Therefore, with a non-Turbo tranny, I will need to also grab the correct 23 spline axles. Will there be any problems with gear ratios besides the mismatched front/rear diffs? And is it possible to drive temporarily with the front 3.9 and rear 3.7 as long as I don't engage 4WD? Thanks.

OK, I'm looking for a parts car now to do the swap from. I'm thinking it will be cheaper to try to find a $2-300 car to get all my parts from than to try to piece it together. Just double-checking on needed parts, I will have to have: 1. transmission 2. clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, etc. (bolts) 3. driveline and rear diff 4. speedo cable and clutch cable 5. pedal box for 5-speed 6. 5-speed x-member And I won't need new axles? My 3AT axles will be fine for a 5-speed? So, basic procedure would go, remove axles and driveline from 3AT, unbolt and drop the AT with x-member, then put the 5-speed up there and hook everything back up, pedals and such. Will I need to do anything about my engine computer? Or does it not care about the type of tranny? I can bypass my neutral/clutch safety switch to get it started I know. Thanks a lot, you guys rock. I'm glad to be on here.

EDIT: I've decided to go with a 5-speed swap. It seems easy enough. Just scroll on down and read my next post. Hey, I've got a Turbo Wagon with the 3AT having some trouble. Here is my previous thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=94532 Anyway, I got a new valvebody in it today, and still the same issues. Can anyone help me figure out what is wrong? I may need a new transmission, if so I'd like to get a 5-speed in it. Is that fairly easy? I have lots of car experience, just on domestics not imports.

Thanks a lot for all your help guys. Fluid is good, red and smells fine. I guess I'll be taking the transmission apart soon and getting that valvebody out. I can do this in-car, right? I've had tons of tranny experience with Chevy transmissions, I'm just trying to beware of anything different on this car. Again, great to be part of this group. Thanks guys.

Thank you very much for your offer Skip. If you have the time to look in your FSM for me, I would love to know more about what may be busted up. I don't relish the idea of tearing the pan off without at least an inkling of where to look for damage. And I hope very much that I do not have to pull the transmission to fix whatever may be the problem. In a perfect scenario, I would like to take the pan off, pop in a new (junkyard) part, and be on my merry way in half an hour. Knock on wood...

I have verified that the shifter goes through all positions just fine, and moves the linkage as it should, corresponding to how far I move the shifter. The linkage is actually solid steel rod, not a cable, and seems to be in the correct place. My bet is something is chewed up internally because the tranny seems to engage all of it's gears just fine, in sequence, just with drive applied all of the time. Look back to my first post. Every shifter position is engaging two gears. Drive + whatever the shifter is in. I don't know enough about these trannies, so I was hoping there was a modulator or solenoid that may have broken. Thanks for your input.

I've got an interesting problem here... My '87 Turbo wagon has been really great, running and driving awesome. The other day me and some friends were driving down a gravel driveway, and I needed to turn around. There was a pullout big enough to do a 3-point turn and head back the way I came. Drove in, popped it into reverse, and no go! We had to call somebody to pull us backwards enough, and then I could continue on my way perfectly fine in drive. Here are the symptoms of what is going on: All gears seem to have drive engaged no matter what... hard to explain, but here goes. Park - RPM's do not increase when I shift to park, and when I push the gas, the engine seems to load up against the torque converter instead of free spinning. Reverse - Same. Loads the converter without going anywhere. Neutral - Drives forward. Seems to stay in 1st gear though. Drive - Works fine, shifts through all three gears. 2 - Holds 2nd gear, just like normal. 1 - Holds first, again working just fine. So it seems as if all positions of the gearshift also engage Drive at the same time. Is something unplugged, or did I frag something internal? Also, possibly unrelated, there is a vacuum line going from the center top of the 3AT towards the driver's side, and it just ends. It isn't plugged into anything, and I can't see where it should go. The short vacuum line to the tranny from the engine is still plugged in. Help!!! I need my winter car!

Hey, thanks for the kind words... I've been lurking here for a couple days, so I kinda know a couple things... I am sorta worried about the 3speed, but I am very mechanically inclined, just more so on domestic cars. So far everything looks pretty simple on this. I'm sure I could pull off a 5-speed d/r swap on this thing in a weekend if I had to Speedo cable I figured was a fairly easy fix, as well as the heater. Just gotta start diggin into it today after work. As far as motor goes, I already have a line on a TMIC and hood scoop, then I'll buy a boost gauge and build a manual boost controller. I'm thinking 10-11psi should run good still with the I/C. Coming from my nearly 400hp Camaro, this soob is always gonna feel slow, so I'm not too worried about making it much faster. The Dude, I'd really kind of like to go analog on the gauges, but I'm not sure how involved it is to switch over. As long as my digidash keeps working I think I'll be better off keeping it. Another bit of the car that was problematic is the air ride Height Control Somebody already replaced it with regular wagon struts though, so I'm good there. It really is the most unreliable parts of any of these Subaru's, rolled into one car, eh? Can definitely feel the turbo spool, it's kind of addicting. Doesn't spool quick enough for me though... New up and down pipes will help that, right? Along with the TMIC and a couple extra pounds of boost I'm hoping for it to be more noticeable and sound way cool. Another thing that made me grin was punching it up a wet hill and losing traction, then thumbing my 4WD button and instantly hooking up. Like you guys say, it just may be an obsession now. lol

Hey! I just bought my first Subaru last night. It's got a couple problems, but overall looks and runs great. I haven't been an import guy much, but the advent of ski season and my daily driver being quite overpowered and too much RWD for snow has led me to purchase a winter beater... I bought, for the princely sum of $400, an '87 GL-10 wagon. Turbo, ?3AT? (not 4eat, no O/D, right?), Pushbutton 4WD, Digital Dash. It has about 70,000 miles. I'll get pics after I get home from work and wash it this afternoon. It has been sitting under a pine tree for a year... Slapped a new battery in it though, and it fired up in 10 seconds of cranking. Here's why I can't make it up the mountain in the winter... Daily driver has been an '84 Chevy Camaro Z28, I built it from the ground up, new motor, paint, everything. 355ci Small-Block Chevy 5-speed Limited Slip Rear tires are 285's, no good in snow, or rain for that matter. lol Now, for the problems on the soobie... There's only a couple. 1.) Speedometer doesn't work. Neither does the odometer. Rest of gauges fine. Is there a speedometer cable that drives both? Related I assume, Trip Computer doesn't know what's up. No mpg or DTE display. Also no Outside Temp display, just shows 0F. I would love to fix the temp display at least. I suspect the mpg and stuff will start working when I get the speedo fixed. 2.) Heater won't switch from vent. Can't get it to switch to defrost or anything. Works great otherwise! 3.) Lady I bought it from claims "something is wrong with the head". The mechanic told her it would be $1500 to fix. Seems to run great, no overheating yet. 4.) Check Engine Light sometimes, pretty normal for these I guess? I'll pull codes today too. Cosmetically, body is straight, paint is great, grayish/dark blue I guess, interior looks brand new, stock AM/FM stereo and all. Somebody caulked the sunroof, and the headliner is very saggy. Doesn't seem to leak since the caulk job though, but I'll take all that out and repair it eventually. Hope to hear your opinions! I'll definitely get pics up here this evening for you to ogle. Should make a good ski beater for getting up the mountain, and some fun wheeling now and again. I'm looking forward to owning and driving my very own Subaru!