mr.radon

Logan, saw you posted over at the XT site too. Let me know if you need any help, own three of those things.... Sorry, no trim parts nor cat.

Well I tried a few different things. The list of what didn't work is long, what did work is some open cell foam about .25" thick. I cut a long strip about .75" wide and wrapped it tightly around the ball. Then managed to get the clam shell together. The thing is pretty tight but can smoothly be repositioned. Will have to see if it is effected by heat... I hate to buy a new mirror just because of that crappy plastic insert...what a waste, Subaru should sell that part as a replacement.

Anyone have suggestion to fix the rear view mirror? The little plastic/metal piece that provides friction to the ball at the end of my mirror broke. Its all floppy now. I added a few layers of electrical tape but that doesn't work so well. Today I stopped by the dealer and looked to see if I could buy/order that little part. They could only offer to sell me the entire mirror assembly. The tech looked at my mirror and went back to the computer but he could not find a part number for that little plastic piece. Help...

Trust me YOU do not want OnStar. I bought a 2009 Corvette and came standard with OnStar. You could not delete it as an option. Read very carefully their privacy statement. They data mine your car. Seat belt usage, miles driven, average speed, max speed. After OnStar called me three times driving my Corvette asking if I had an accident I disabled the unit. Six weeks later I get a letter from OnStar to have my car check because they could not communicate with their unit. Analog OnStar is no longer supported. If you visit their web site they mention this. So OnStar can call if you have an accident, so can a lot of bystanders. Here's much more... On Star terms & conditions The privacy section.... 33. YOUR PRIVACY. Some of our key privacy practices are outlined in this section. For a complete description of our privacy practices, please refer to our Privacy Statement. We may update our Privacy Statement on the first day of a calendar quarter to reflect new services or changes to our business and will include the date of the last revision. We advise you to check for changes to the Privacy Statement periodically. You can access the current statement at www.onstar.com or you can contact us to request a copy. You acknowledge that it is your responsibility to advise all occupants of your Car (including other drivers) how information about them may be collected, used, and disclosed by OnStar. Really who here does this??? We may collect information about you and your Car in several different ways: from what you, your car dealer and car maker provide to us; from your use of the OnStar Services (see Section 34. YOUR INTERACTIONS WITH OnStar ADVISORS); from calls or emails between us; from OnStar web pages you visit; from our wireless Service Providers; from your satellite radio provider; from third party data providers; and from your Car itself when your OnStar Equipment is active. The information we may get about you includes your contact and billing information (including your credit card number); vehicle purchase information, registration information and information that helps us customize our services. The information we may get from your Car includes things such as: data about its operation; data about your use of the OnStar Services; the location of your Car; data about accidents involving your Car, including safety belt usage; and information about your use of the Car and its features. We may also approximate the speed of your Car based on GPS data to support a limited number of OnStar Services, such as Stolen Vehicle Assistance services, as further described in our Privacy Statement. We may collect information from your Car on a periodic or regular basis. You agree that we can, subject to applicable law, use this information to: provide OnStar Services; manage your account or OnStar Services; conduct analysis and research; comply with legal requirements; prevent fraud or misuse of the OnStar service; protect our rights or property or the safety of you or others; send you important Car or OnStar Service related messages through the OnStar system in your Car; and offer you new or additional products or services. You also agree that we can, subject to applicable law, share information about you and your Car with: 1) our Service Providers; and 2) the maker of your Car, its subsidiaries, affiliates, a successor or an assignee of a significant part of your Car maker's or OnStar's business; your Car dealer; our wireless Service Providers and your satellite radio provider for their business purposes. We may also share this information with others as may be required by law, or to protect our rights or property or the safety of you or others. We may also share information about fleet cars with fleet companies and information about rental cars with rental companies. ONSTAR WILL NOT SELL, RENT, OR OTHERWISE DISCLOSE INFORMATION SPECIFIC TO YOU OR YOUR CAR TO THIRD PARTIES FOR THEIR INDEPENDENT USE WITHOUT YOUR CONSENT. Because OnStar provides service through wireless networks, we can’t promise that your communications won’t be intercepted by others. You agree we won’t be liable for any damages for any loss of privacy occurring in communication over such networks.

I had an issue with this code on another car and it ended up just being a glitch with the Engine Controller's code. The dealer flashed in new software and it never came back. Might want to call the dealer and ask him if this is the case. Otherwise, if you think the system is running fine buy the O2 sensor simulators. I run a cat free exhaust in a street legal rally car. So I don't get nipped at the emissions place I plugged the O2 connectors into these babies. O2 Simulator Code goes away... I get better gas mileage without the cats.

I have a headlamp alignment tool and made sure they were pointed correctly. Then checked my work by lighting up a warehouse wall. I figured I'd get flamed, but the light output is so much better. I couldn't care less about the looks, its all about being able to see on those dark forest service roads. Hence the PIAA 520 fog lamps.

Well I hate to admit it but after a coworker did this I had to do it to my Outback. I can't believe how much the lighting improved. Bought a Xenon HID high/low kit from DDM. This is it laid out on my kitchen table. Didn't look like much, and I thought the quality could be better, but for what I paid ($60) I was pretty pleased. To mount the Bulb controllers I made two brackets and pop riveted these guys to them, which were bolted behind the head lamps with some M6 bolts. Then there was the control box. This I mounted off the battery hold down post. Used some washers and a nut there. This picture shows the Bulb controller mounted behind the head lamp assembly. The end result was totally amazing as far as forward lighting. I'd say there is about twice the light now. A very white light.

It was a hand assembled vendor sample. I work for a OEM truck manufacture. You could not buy this anywhere.

Because of the depth of this light I could not mount it where there was a reinforcement bar behind the head liner. The existing dome lamp is mounted to one of these reinforcement bars. I added tinnerman clips to the headliner to attach this light bar. It is for a heavy duty truck and a stock replacement for the existing florescent lamp. hence it takes up 75% more space then it has to, but boy does it light things up! The three way dome lamp switch controls both lights. I also installed a ground switch on the LED light and wired it to the back of the consol, so when I am camping out in the back I can turn on the light without getting up.

I did this recently, but as with all things getting all the parts took the longest. Once I was in there I decided to lap the valves and a few other things. If you just did the HG's and nothing else, don't bother pulling the motor, just unbolt it from the frame, remove the dog bone, jack it up and go to town. Should be two half days of work.

I had a LED light bar that I got free from somewhere so I decided to install it. I kept the OEM dome lamp. This one can turn on with the doors, plus I have an override switch on the dash. So nice, I can see when I'm camping out now. Plus this thing draws only 1A! No light on Light on Installed pictures, I never realized how yellow incandescent lights are...

Part of my problems were due to this rear diff shield that covered the diff. It was PACKED full of mud. I'm not putting it back in, if anyone wants this diff guard and the hardware to install it be my guest, otherwise its heading to the recycle heap.

All right after heating it up just a tad and using my 3 foot cheater bar and a bottle nose she gave way. Top one first then the bottom one. The bottom was on tighter. Am in the process of draining now and it looks like yuk. About 1" low. Well, one less job to worry about. Thanks for the advice. I had a little more confidence given I had a possible replacement cover in my back pocket. Thanks for the insurance policy Gary.

Also, if you get an engine picker, go down and get an engine leveler. It will allow you to pull the engine out at the right angle and makes life easy. And if this is an auto, try, just try to keep the TC in the tranny. LOL. But if not get a large oil pan under there. (another reason to only drive manuals)

Yeah Gary I got pissed yesterday. Been applying penatrant every 2-3 days for a few weeks and no go. The impact wrench I have is a high torque model and has never failed me in all these years. I'll remove the cover and try the jack method. I've used that in the past. If not I'll contact you about a rear cover. THANKS!

When I rebuilt my '98 EJ25 engine I also changed the tranny lube and cleaned the magnet. I made an extension to my long neck funnel so that I could fill the tranny from the bottom up. Worked great! After the rebuild I've noticed that my mileage has gone up about 3mpg! However, durring the rebuild I could not get the two plugs out of the rear diff. I put some penatrant on the bolts, and every few days since then. Now several weeks have passed and I have well penatrated bolts. Using either my impact wrench or three foot breaker bar the bolt is not breaking free. (only trying the top plug) Anyone have any suggestions? Is one brand of penatrant better then others? What worked for you? The lube that poured out of the tranny looked like it had not been changed since the car was built. So I'm worried the rear diff is in the same condition.

They are 6" round, go measure the opening and see where they can be mounted. PIAA has a drawing of the fog lamp(s) so you can check to see if they fit. http://www.piaa.com/Lamps/Lamp-pages/520.html

A popular test is to pull up to a wall, let the clutch out and if the engine dies your clutch is still good to go. Also, would not hurt to make sure the slave and master are still working right. I had a problem with them and it caused clutch slippage.

Well I got it installed. Took a little longer since I fixed the clutch so fast. Had to wait till the wife had another night shift to get into the garage. I was surprised by how crappy the stock PIAA electrical wiring is. Crap, total crap. Also, the 20AWG wire that Subaru uses to power the stock fog lamps is crap. I basically used 14AWG wire for these fog lamps. This is the rewire of the lamp itself. I tapped into power off the alternator, directly to a fuse pack (so I can add more fog lights and will have the extra power) which feeds the common terninal (30) on a sealed relay that I hung off the battery tie down rod. I tapped ground off the front driver ground. This ground the relay coil and the fog lights. I drive the relay coil with the driver side fog lamp lead. The passenger lead I cut off and taped back. This way the fog lights still work like they are supposed to, and it was an easy way to get switched power. I drilled two holes to mount the lights, this is into the structural plastic. I replaced the PIAA nut and star washer with a nylock nut and big fender washer. I removed my headlamps to make the job go a little easier. After I got one in, I aligned it then tightened the bolts. Looks pretty good. Routed the wire harness, and then installed the other light. Tried them out driving, they make a world of difference.

The Duty solienoid C get a pulse width modulated signal (PWM) from the tranny ECU that ranges on the SVX and XT6 from 95% to 5% at a relativly high frequency. This has the effect to finely position the hydrolic valve it actuates. At 5% PWM the valve is closed and no fluid is dumped from the transfer clutch and you get the bind up. With 50% PWM some fluid is dumped (partialy open) and you get partial pressure on the transfer cltuch and at a 95% PWM signal you get no pressure on the transfer clutch and no power transfer. So while your driving down the road you can almost bet the solinoid is basically "ON" (4EAT). The solenoid moves quickly when the tranny ECU detects a slip, but they are not constanly opening and shutting at the frequency of the PWM signal. These solenoids by design are always powered in the 4EAT and I have yet to see a single coil go bad. I have seen two valve seats go bad. I've seen transfer clutches go bad, but never the coil. These things use very little power, and generate little heat. You damage nothing by overriding the valve either way. In my rally car I installed an adjustable PWM to control my Duty Solinoid C. I can easily adjust the power transfer to the rear with it. So to the person with the issue: does the issue go away in FWD mode? If it doesn't torque bind is not your issue.

BTW - Duty Solenoid C can be on without it "burning" out. It's very similar to the one they put in the 4EAT trannys on the AWD XT6's, I've owned a few of those and never had an issue with those solenoids. Follow the vacuum leak advice. Buy a can of ether, spray around the vacuum hoses where there could be a leak, see if the idle changes. This is caused by a leak sucking ether into the engine.

This is the fill system I made to prevent the clutch bleeding headaches. Its similar to what we use to fill the hydraulic clutch system on our massive K500 trucks. I ripped the inner liner off the old master cylinder. Added the large fitting to the caps vent port (wrapped with Teflon tape to help seal it good) I then hooked a hose to the slaves bleed port and put the other end into a can of DOT 4 fluid. Here you can see the DOT 4 can, and hose going to the slave, the vacuum hose is hooked to the new master cylinder's reservoir. Here you can see the vacuum pump. It took about 45 seconds before the master was half full of DOT 4 fluid. (the mason jar is my vacuum brake bleed jar to power bleed the brakes) Shut the bleed screw and secured the pump. Removed the cap, topped off the fluid, put on the new cap. Pumped the clutch four quick times and that was it. Took the wife out to dinner to celebrate. She was very happy to have her garage space back. Very happy. I'm even more happy to have my Outback back. So glad the slave didn't blow while in Whistler watching the Olympics...

Replaced the slave (seized) and master (leaking) it works now. I used the cap from the old master to help bleed the system. Attached my vacuum pump to it and sucked DOT 4 fluid through the slave bleed screw to fill the system. Worked like a charm. Back on the road again.... Will post picture after dinner.

Finally got my PIAA 520 kit. And since the Outback is immobile due to a bad clutch slave cylinder I have time to install them. I also got two 130W Narva H3 bulbs for the PIAA's. Made a wire harness out of 12AWG wire connected to the batteries power and ground protected by a 30A sealed J-case fuse, going to use a sealed 70A relay controlled off the stock wire harness. Will post pictures when I'm done. Can't wait to see on those forest service roads again.

Wholy cow, the last post was right on. The darn master went out for good today as I pulled into the garage. Got the slave, master and hose coming to me. I love the days of the clutch cable. So easy to adjust and so easy to check. Heck I fixed one once with a pen and dental floss. Those parts are not all that cheap! Eeeek....