mr.radon

Go to the bulb rack. They are in the back left of one of the drawers. (12V 60mA bulbs) I had to go to three RS stores before I found one with the bulbs. I think what you will want are: Catalog #: 272-1092 http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103780&filterValue=12+Volt&filterName=Type I brought a phillips with me and fixed all three in the HVAC head and the one in the HAZ switch right there in the parking lot. Took all of 10 minutes. (unit was already removed)

Subaru OEM parts. Clips and all bearings were replaced. Didn't grind the flywheel as it looked great. Nothing done with the master nor slave. The sticky clutch at full depression really does feel like the floor mat. Its the slipping that had me concerned. I've replaced a lot of clutches but never had one slip like this. First time it has done oit and it only happened after a long drive.

I rebuilt the EJ25 motor in a 98 Outback and replaced the clutch, plate, bearings while I was at it. Never worked on a hydrolic clutch before, but it looked simple enough. Have about 2K on the motor now and today after a long drive in 3rd the clutch began to slip under moderate load. Stopped to pick up groceries and I tried the stall test against the wall of a building, engine stalled out. Drove home could not get it to repeat. Also, every once in awhile I push the clutch all the way in and the pedal hangs. I always figured it was the floor matt, maybe a related symptom? When I did the clutch I bleed the entire system and filled it with DOT 4. Any suggestions?

I guess what I needed to know is where can I get those three little lights? Never mind, I found the LED thread and will use those. Not paying $5 each to replace these POS.

Need to replace the back light bulb for the HVAC pod and my Cruise control switch. Anyone do this recently?

I just did the timing belt and a bunch of other things to my motor, PM me if you have questions.

:banana::banana:Got a new crank shaft sensor and put it in. Started right up!:banana: Thanks for the offer of help Q-Man and the manuals grossgary. WOOOOHOOOOOO:grin::grin: The wife is so happy too! No more garage queen!

Well I can't get the crank pulley bolt out unless there is sopme trick to hold the flywheel like with the ER27 engines. I did check the timing marks on the cams, they are dead nuts on. However, the flywheel doesn't have timing marks like the ER27's nor does the Crank Pulley. So I removed the crankshaft sensor to see where the crank tick was. (make sure it was in the right spot). Well this is what I found. I think the issue is my sensor (dooh). One of the little ball bearings from the pulley musta got up in there and nailed it. Dang how in the heck did I miss that???? ARGHHHH!!! I also noticed the wiring to this sensor is a little brittle. Need to fix that too. I guess it is a trip to the junk yard for me. Looks like Thepartsbin has them for $16...

Thanks Ken, I got your PM. Have to do some errands before I can call. Will pull the engine and take picture of the timing belt and post it. Then I'll call you if I got some questions. Thanks for the offer of help.

Have an issue that is just very irritating. The rebuild involved adjusting the cam follower shims, lapping the intake and exhaust valves, replacing the head gaskets, all the seals, spark plugs, wires, timing belt and I got a new tensioner (just to be on the safe side). A fellow forum member sent me the shop manual to make sure I got all the right torques and did the timing belt right. Plus I've rebuilt at least a dozen EA82/ER27 engines. I've never had an engine fail to start after a rebuild. So I get her all back together, turn the key. I expect the car to just fire up, however, nothing. It cranks and I get a pop or two but she just doesn't fire up. Checked all the connectors, wires. pulled off the R/L timing belt covers and it looks right. I've messed around for a few hours over two days and just decided to pull the motor again so I can get the crank pully off and double check the timing again. The wife wants her garage parking space back... Boy does this tick me off.

I'm pretty sure you need a 97 or later head to do that as the cam followers need a recess to sit in. I'm real familiar with the hydrolic lash adjusters. They can easily be rebuilt. I've done over a hundred of these. Buy a cheap ultrasonic sink at Harbor freight, add solvent not water. Take the lash adjusters apart. There is a cap, spring bearing and follower. What happens is some gunk gets into the ball valve and seat allowing these to collapse. Clean real well in the sink then reassemble. To get the cap on just use a socket and vice. Works well. This usually solves the issue. Or try adding a quart of ATF to the oil. It doesn't damage the engine, and does a good job cleaning out the lifters. However, I prefer the lifter rebuild method to solve the ticking issue.

If you move the arm on the vice about 1/8 of a turn every few minutes while grinding valves you will not damage the part. Crank on the vice yes you will damage the part.

I have a post on this same issue. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=106464 I've tore down my engine because when that pulley went I was doing 70MPH and under a heavy load (driving up a steep pass). I needed to be sure my valves were not toast. I would get a timing belt kit and replace all the pulleys. Don't risk another pulley going out. I compared my old ones that didn't fail they were all stiff, didn't spin as easy as the new ones. The work is about the same. You can compress the tensioner in a vice (slowly) use an allen wrench to pin it then just replace the pulley on it to save money. ($50) Let me know how it goes.

blizzack ws-50 or ws-60 in the winter, regular tires in the non-winter. All season work well in fl and tx, not in snow.

I got (2) Subaru head gaskets today, I need the rest now. I see a lot of gasket kits but they all come with head gaskets. Anyone know who sells one without head gaskets?

Not to mention getting a JDM engine and just dropping it in. Run it till something happens to it. Heck, that price you could buy three JDM's and keep swapping them as they bust. Sorry to hear you got sucked into buying a bad Subaru. A good inspection should have caught this. Always get an inspection if you don;t know what to look for yourself.

Did the other head tonight. Also I found I could reset the tensioner. Basically I put it in the vice and after every valve I would give the handle an 1/8 of a turn. Repeated this till the holes lined up and then I put an old allen head wrench through the three holes. All I have to do is buy a new idler pulley for the assembly. Snap! I'll post a video on the valve lapping tool I use.

Gary the ER27 (EA82) oil seal's OD was SMALLER then the OEM. This allowed it to slid out of the block and leak. Then it would slid back and seal. Leak was major on or off, no drip drip drip. So pissed I had to pull the engine because of a slightly out of spec rear main oil seal. I've replaced about 20 rear crank oil seals (lots of friends come by, plus my auto auction habit) I never had that happen before. But me and my friend used the same gasket kit from the parts bin and had the same thing happen. Never again! OEM baby. Got two head gaskets from Subaru and some lapping compound today. Made a rest to hold the heads so a rubber bushing hucked in the mill can spin the valves to do the lapping job. Hope it works. Got to leave town for a week. Need to order the rest of the parts....

Awesome info on the valves. I'll do them myself. I made an adapter out of an old socket to pull the valves. I used a magnet to pull out the wedges. I should be able to get them back in, might have to modify the tool I made. I chucked the valves into my mill and spun them around by hand with a dial gauge. I didn't get any out of round readings on the intake nor exhaust valves. Great info on the leak test. I'll also blue the valves to make sure I have a good seat to valve contact. Not much buildup on the valves. I'm not going to buy new ones unless I have to. I guess I should have done a compression check on the engine before I pulled it. Then I would only have had to do the timing belt/water pump change. But I could not figure out how to get the spark plugs off. Then I just figured the valves were toast seeing how I knew I had a timing belt issue. In hind sight...looking at the force needed to free sping the cam, I figure my cams found a relaxed state where none of the valves were open. Also the two cams were still timed together. The belt stopped moving but kept the intake and exhaust cams in time. I counted teeth on the two cams and they were still aligned before I took the belts off. Another reason I think the valves never got out of time. I also read the head gaskets were an issue. I figure if I pull a motor I know NOTHING about it's history I should at least do complete job. The head gaskets I got were the new ones from Subaru. They had been recently done. So inreality I did not need to do the heads, but I really wanted to make sure the valves were good to go. I've found a lot of short cuts the pervious owner/shop did. The excessive RTV was just waiting to clog an oil passageway. The valves were out of adjustment, the water pump was not replaced and had a minot leak. All the pulleys were worn and didn't spin well. New timing belt though. Plus he reused the cam cover seals and two of those were missing. There were four washers stacked up in the place of a seal. The cam carrier seals were hard and cracked. About the rear oil seal. I and a friend rebuilt our ER27 motors. The rear oil seals OD was a little off from the Subaru OEM seal (we used the same kit). In my case I had a huge leak then nothing. When I pulled the motor I found the seal slide easily on the crank. My friend had the same issue. If you have the motor off you are just asking for trouble by mot replacing a $8 OEM part. If it goes you have to pull the motor to replace. It's very easy to get out. And I will NEVER use a none OEM seal in a difficult to reach area again. Now I cover my arse by using a screw driver and hammer to add a divit to prevent the seal from ever wanting to back out of the block. 45K miles no leaks. I need to find an online repair manual as I have no torque specs.... anyone????

Got the other side off today and cleaned the heads. Going to send them off to get the valves ground. I think I figured out what happened when the pulley gave. Looks like all the cams rotated to the closed position and just stayed there as the crank spun. The valves had no marks of valve to valve damage. Nor were there marks on the pistons. Getting the valves done then the engine is going back together. I can't see how people do this while the engine is IN the car! My hat off to you.

I got the left head off! Am going to save the other side for tomorrow. That was not as easy as a EA82 or ER27 engine. The last guy to work on the engine used a liberal amount of RTV yuck. They also used a bunch of stacked up washers in place of valve cover rubber grommets in two places. What the??? The pistons didn't touch a single valve and the valves look okay. Am interested to see the valve spring compression tool. I have one for the older style but not these. Anyone know of a good place in the Seattle-Bellevue area to get a valve job done?

I got the Outback at a tow lot auction at 190K. It now has 215K. I did find paperwork that the head gaskets and timing belt were done at 180K. I don't think this is the original motor. It doesn't look like a 215K motor. Head bolts are in great shape, piston heads have little build up. Until this happened I had no issues with the motor. Obviously someone went cheap on the timing belt swap by not replacing the pulleys. I'm trying to cost out a rebuild verses a JDM 45K motor. I like rebuilding motors, but only if it make financial sense.

Well I have the engine tore down. My intake and exhaut valves did not play nice. Heads are off, pistons are fine. I'm not going to split the block. I found that there are a lot of places that provide parts. Anyone that has done a recent EJ25 rebuild can I please get the suppliers of your parts & possibly part numbers if you have them for: Head Gasket (Is Subaru OEM the best?) Valve Cover, oil pan, intake, exhaust gasket kit (RockAuto???) Water pump, idler & tensioner kit (part number or OEM???) Timing belt (part number and supplier) Intake and exhaust valve seals (part number and supplier) Rear and front crank, and cam seals (part number and supplier) Spark plugs and wires (part number supplier) Clutch kit (part number and supplier) Cam retention tool (supplier) Anything I'm missing that I should replace while I'm in there?

This is for a friend in NY. He's got a 2004 Subaru. His car has thrown P0453, P0457 10 times. 9 under warranty and now the first time out of warranty. (the dealer even replaced his car's entire electrical harnesses tryiong to fix this issue) Does the ECU record the date, time and ODO when a fault code sets? I work in the heavy duty truck world and it does record this information. Anyone know? Thanks.

Got the motor out in less then 2 hours. (the cold motivated me) First EJ25 pull for me. Zipped off the right timing cover and something fell out but couldn't find it. Belt was loose but intact. Looked almost normal. Zipped the left cover off. Something fell out but I could not find it on my garage floor. Hammered off the crank pulley. Zipped off the center cover and said OH CRAP!!! The lower right idler pulley (the one with teeth) was TOAST! All bearings were gone and several hunks of metal were splattered in belt cover. I took a few chunks out of the block but nothing important. Going to pull the heads and check each valve for damage. I also have no way to get the cams and pistons aligned without pulling the heads. I miss the simplicity of the ER27... Maybe I should just get a JDM engine, maybe a turbo ;-) I figure I'll do the rear oil seal, clutch, and head gaskets while I'm at it.