mr.radon

I've got two motors now with more then 300K. Both are ER27 motors with hydrolic lifters. You can rebuild them and buy new ones, but the trick is to add 1/2 to 1 quart of ATF till they stop ticking. Running ATF in the motor oil will cause gummed up leaky seals to leak, but won't effect motor lubrication. Use whatever oil is right for your application. A good multi grade will work. Synthetic is a waste of money on these engines. Another amazing fact is people are so worried about motor oil and then NEVER change their gear lube or rear diff lube. Had one car I bought with +200K on it and the rear diff gear lube was black. After I changed out the gear lube I got 3-4mpg increase. Whenever I get a motor I don't know the history I usually run ATF to clean up the insides, seal it if it leaks and watch out for lifter noise. Rebuild/replace as necessary. MMO works but is basically expensive ATF fluid.

Well after two trips I got the belt replaced. I showed up this weekend, after being out for a long time. The service writer said it should be covered, but he didn't want to look at my car's belt. He said if the tech determined it wasn't normal wear and tear it would not get replaced. I asked for the new part and that I would be on my way. (I install it) This is where the dealer hassle began. He mentioned that it would have to be done in the shop. I was fine with that, but he then gave me crazy times. He finally agreed to Monday morning and then finally said I could get a courtesy ride to work as he estimated the job would take an hour. Sure enough dropped it off this morning at 7AM and two hours later the car was ready. Got two free cups of coffee, two free muffins and a ride to and from work in a new 2010 Forester. The dealer has a happy Subaru owner who I might bring some business his way. The new seat belt takes at least 100K miles off this car. LOL The wife is complaining that she still has the same old belt. (It's not frayed but has stains on it) The guy bring my car around asked if I had been off roading as the car was muddy as he11! I replied, "Thats a great guess, but no. Long climbing trip in Canada. I just got back from a 5K road trip and didn't bother to wash it." The mud on the side is at least a 1/2" thick, and an arc where the wipers have been working overtime.

It's a 1998 Outback. 230K The warranty is on page 6. The driver's side is worn and abraded. NOT cosmetic otherwise I would not care. I don't care but seeing how the wife will drive this car soon I now care. You guys are awesome. I had not thought of looking in the booklet. Thanks!

So every so often I hear someone post that Subaru dealers will replace worn seat belts for free. So is this n urban legend? I went to a Subaru dealer today and asked for them to give me a replacement seat belt for free since my drivers belt is chaffing. They laughed...told me there was no such thing as a FREE seat belt replacement. Is there a special replacement deal with seatbelts or not?

I've got several old ER27 engines nearing 300K. To keep them clean and the lifters quiet I add 1 quart of ATF after every oil change. Engine stays SUPER clean and no ticking. Change the oil every 4-5K. (I had a noisy EA82 tht this worked well on too) If you have a high mileage engine I suggest running the 1 quart ATF. The additives in ATF work pretty well cleaning out the gunk from the engine and is cheap. I run synthetic Mobile 1 in my newer cars. No issue. Just replace oil and filter.

HWY - 28.6 mpg - average speed, 68mph City - 24.5 (I try not to jack rabbit starts and roll through stop signs if it obvious there is not cross traffic. (stop signs that would be yields in any other country) 1998 Outback 225K, DOHC Manual Transmission Engine, Mobile 1 Fluids in engine, diff & tranny, royal purple Synchromax No Intake, Engine, or Exhaust Modifications 205/70R15, Goodyear Assurance (36psi) Took off roof rack Recent head gasket, valve lap, seals... DOHC No leaks, burn about a 1/2 quart of oil every 4K. (oil changes) Needless to say I am SUPER happy with my ride after I rebuilt the engine.

WOW, $900 for a head gasket job??? Read the board and rebuild the motor yourself. Not too hard. Or do the EJ22 swap.

I second the issue with oil, replace leaky seals while in there. Also if you got holes in the cover(s) and dirt gets in there, that will eat a belt pretty quick. You can run without covers, makes changing the belts easy, but they don't last long.

A link to a great write up on this. I've done this when I lived in the sticks and didn't have emission control tests. http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-how-requests-questions-tips/114931-how-install-spark-plug-anti-foulers-remove-ses-cel-light.html

All right, enough time has gone by I can tell this story. I went to put in the new sensor. but the wife was parked in the garage and as I figured out how to get to the sensor it started to rain. I forgot and left the new sensor on TOP of the throttle body. I drive to work the next day, still have the scanner hooked up and my throttle input is no more then 50% and the pedal is stiff. QARGGGHHH I yell, not a throttle position sensor too!!!! I park in the garage and lift the hood, mouth hits the floor as I see the new water temp sensor and it is preventing the throttle from moving more then 50% of travel.... I managed to get the new sensor in even though the car was still real warm.

Watch out in the winter. If you park next to a curb I've gotten a ice wedge frozen on my passanger side rims, undrivable above 20mph. No way to get it out either. That sucked... Also, if your rear shocks go, you can quickly scallop tires by the undampened bounce. Pretty pricey to let that go, new tires and new shocks. I paid for that mistake once.

Sounds like no damping.

Innova 3130

They did build it again, it was called the Baja... Tire swap on the STi and it is a great winter car. I have two sets of rims for all my rides. Summer and winter. Nitto NT05's, Blizzak WS50's.

Hooked up my scanner, well sure enough after like three trips it finally went to -25F. Then 178F then -30F. Replaced the sensor, works well now. Woo Hooo.:banana:

Yes I did smell a little gas. Did not do it this morning. So maybe when it is cold it doen't do it but if I start up after it is warm it does hummm... Sounds like a coolant sensor.

Thanks, I was thinking that or a sticky throttle position sensor or throttle body. Have not worked on a EJ25 IAC, just the old EA82 ones. I'm going to hook up my reader tomorrow and watch it. Took the wife to dinner and it did it going to and from the restaurant. She was laughing at me. I want to laugh back.

Drove about 2 miles to the post office at lunch. Spent 20 minutes in there. Returned to the car but the Outback did not want to start. Cranked a second time and it lit up. Then the idle went up to 2,800? Stayed there for about three minutes. Been acting fine since then. Normal starts, normal idle? WTF???? :eek:

Nope, my understanding is you will have to get an extension. I've done a lot of helicoils in my life, but never on a head bolt thread. The tool that comes with the kit isn't long enough to reach. Someone on here must have info on this.

I pulled the hub last night and dropped it off to the shop and explained the issue. He said he'd look into it. Called me a few minutes ago and said they will swap out the bearing for me for free. They are pretty sure they didn't press the hub in far enough. From now on I'm going to double check the hubs after i get bearings pressed in. Glad I noticed and checked!

Rob, I used a little antisease on the nut and torqued to spec. I guess I should just start looking for a used hub assembly. I think that would be cheaper then buying a bearing and getting it pressed in. Dang it, that was a Subaru shop I trusted. Guess I'll just check it again in a few months, the squeal has gone down a bit.

Replaced many a half shafts in my life...many. Well I replaced all the parts in my 98 Outback's front end last year. Struts, pads, rotors, ball joints, tie rod ends, half shafts and wheel bearings. I got the bearings pressed in by a reputable Subaru shop. I torqued everything to spec. Last week I started to hear squeaking from the front left bearing. Raised the front end, lots of play on that tire. Popped off the tire and checked the axle nut, it was loose! It had not moved (tab still bent down) so I torqued it back to spec. Still squeaks (a little) however the play is all but gone. The right side was still tight, no noise and almost no play. I've never had a axle nut come loose. What the hell was going on with that? Did they not press the bearing in correctly, it shifted?

I vote for a cracked head first. The place that did the head would/should be able to get it pressure tested and might be able to fix it. Don't know of a good way of pressure testing the block. To see if the block is warped, get a good metal straight edge and measure the clearances. Haven't see many warped blocks, most of the time there are other issues along with a warped block, like seized pistons and such.

I call BS. OnStar will not secure a car unless law enforcement gets involved. So unless you are a law enforcement officer this is not going to work. OnStar sucks, but not this bad.

95% sure you will not have to replace the flywheel unless you really burned that sucker. Even then you can have a little machined off without issue. I don't know the specs on that off the top of my head but there are many here that do. I have only replaced one flywheel doing about 30+ clutch jobs. Be sure you replace the pilot bearing, release bearing and while back there throw in a new rear crank seal. A clutch job is about as straight forward as it comes, hardest part is getting to the parts. Along those lines, take a few pictures along the way so you don't forget how it goes back together. And take time to look over your engine. There a small coolant hoses that are often ignored you can get checked out up close.