murphsubaru

On a 99 Forester where is the fuel filter? Also, what is the procedure to replace the brake fluid? My Forester has 140,000 miles, neither have been replaced.

I was going about 35, not accelerating, not turning, road surface was fine. This is not the first this has happend. I have noticed it on the freeway, but not as severe as today. If I jack up the car could I determine anything by shaking the wheels?

How can you tell when the rack and pinion steering is going bad? I have a 99 Forester with 137,000 miles. Today the front end started to shake just for a few seconds as if the front wheels were loose. I was not braking at the time.

After looking at the diagram now I know what the pin and pin boot are. However I did not service them. What should I have done????

What are the bores???

I serviced them; cleaned and lubed the channels with brush and also removed channels and wire brushed the caliper where the channels sit. The rotors were pitted and coroded, pads were grooved, put evenly worn. It seams like every time I buy Napa pads they fit too tight.

I just replaced the rear rotors and pads on my 99 Forester. After a short drive the breaks smell hot and are much hotter then the front brakes. Is this normal during the break in period or did I screw something up??? After grinding down the pad ears they are loose in the channels and lubed with a sythetic brake grease. In the past I have had problems with new pads fitting to tightly in the channels and causing heat and warping of the rotors.

Is it harmful to use 10W 40 Motor oil in a Forester???

Thanks for the info everyone, I will start with a good cleaning and lube.

134,000 In the past I had problems with the breaks overheating because the pads fit to tight in the channels.

How can you tell if the Caliper or Piston is bad? It looks like the rear brake on my 99 Forester isn't working. The rotor is dull and after driving a few miles was cold.

Has anyone used the AUTOZONE CV replacement boot? This boot comes in two halves. One of my inner cv boots is split and I was thinking of tying one.

Codes came from Autozone computer. Pulling the negative battery cable for a few hours did reset the Check Engine light. It has not come back on, it must have been the faulty oxygen sensor. Thank you eveyone for your help!

Does the check engine light need to be reset after replacing an oxygen sensor??? My light is still on.

Can I fake out the check engine light somehow so I can pass an E-check until I get the sensor replaced? What would happed if I spliced the wires together?

99' Forester Check engine light code P0141, Bank 1 sensor 2. My understanding of the printout indicates that it would be the first one down from the cylinder head which is on the converter. If this is true how do you remove it?? It is on top and to the side with no room for a wrench.

I have more info on my failing Oxygen sensor: CODE: PO141 HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR BANK 1 SENSOR 2 Does this mean it is the second from the front sensor on the exhaust????

PAezb Thanks for the Info.

My oxygen sensor in BANK 1 is bad according to the check engine code. Where is this oxygen sensor on a 99' Forester???

Is the voltage regulator inside the alternator on a 99 forester?? This morning my battery light came on after starting. I checked the battery while it was running and it is not charging. Fuse is ok, all connetions are clean and tight, belt is good. Car has 130,000 miles, I am guesing the alternator is shot. What else could it be???

Thank you all for the info. The next morning the speedometer and transmission were working properly. Could it have been a moisture problem???

No, but previous to the abupt stop I was on the freeway for 40 minutes driving through slush and heavy rain. Speed never topped 50mph.

1999

After coming to an abrupt stop in heavy rain going about 40mph, my speedometer stopped working and the transmission is shifting roughfly. What could be the cause??? I have a 99 Forester with 130,000 miles. The ABS does not work, when I came to the abrupt stop the wheels did lock.

NO, never has.