nbiehl

Any know a way to get a new remote key? I just went from a Loyale, which opens all the doors with one turn of the key, to an Outback, which doesn't. Having to fumble around with the lock switch while everyone waits outside is a pain.

Update: Examining the slave and master cylinders, there are no visible leaks from either, and the fluid in the master cylinder is at the maximum level (slightly above, actually.) I did not try to bleed the slave (busy family weekend) The slave cylinder has "NEW" written on it in white marking pen. That doesn't mean jack, but does suggest that the slave has been replaced. The marking pen is really visible, not much dirt or corrosion on it. Again, I realize this tells me nothing conclusive, and might be wishful thinking on my part. The the pedal actually seems to stick before the mechanism starts to put pressure on the slave cylinder, and right after the slave cylinder is no longer able to put pressure on the pedals return travel. When it gets stuck, it requires almost no pressure at all to get the pedal to fully return. Just a slight nudge and it snaps right up to the top again with a hard thunk. You can toggle the pedal back and forth between stuck and unstuck like a light switch while the car is driving and it doesn't seem to engage the hydraulics at all. Is it possible that the pedal is sticking right at the point where the hydraulics let off and the spring is supposed to take over?

I really hope you are right, and I will look, but I don't think it's as simple as a spring. Here's why: I go to work before dawn. I get off at 3 pm. For the past 2 days, the clutch has worked fine in the mornings, and acted up on the way home. If it were a missing spring, I think I'd have the problem all the time. The only thing that seems to change between those two drives is the temperature outdoors.

Thanks for the help, folks. I'm going to go over both cylinders and the hoses tonight to see if I can pinpoint any leaks. Parts estimates around town for the slave cylinder $76-93. The most reputable shop in town told me their part costs "a whole lot more than ($93) since I use genuine Subaru parts." WTF? The $93 quote was from a Subaru dealer. The $76 quote is for an OEM part from an import shop. Why would that shop need to charge a whole lot more? The "famous" shop also told me its likely that the whole clutch is worn out (which could be true) and then quoted me $400 more ($1200) for a full clutch replacement than the other import shop ($800.) Anyone got any recommendations for a good online source for OEM parts? What are some of the signs/symptoms that I need to replace the whole clutch?

Hey OB99W, I actually did read that link. That's where I got the term "trouble tree:" If you are diagnosing a manual transmission equipped vehicle with a DTC P1507 and can find nothing wrong after following the trouble tree in the appropriate service manual, inspect the Neutral Switch Circuit before replacing any parts. I have yet to fully follow any trouble tree, so I haven't ruled out the other causes for a P1507 code. I found this while searching: I realized that Sunday morning, before I got all of the codes, I had removed the hose to the PCV valve and cleaned the valve some more with some carb cleaner. It was cold and the hose was hard to remove and replace, so I could have created a leak that threw the code as well. Also, the collar that connects that big chunk of black plastic to the intake manifold was loose enough to spin around (WTF?!) Would any of those intake issues be solved by cutting power, though? Should I test the neutral switch, or just replace it cause its cheap? How would I test it?

Not the floor mat. 164000 miles. I've had her a week and I'm in the process of tracking down older owners, so I don't know about the clutch job. How do I check to see if its the slave cylinder? What am I looking for?

Any one have this problem? 99 Outback Wagon manual transmission. When I push the clutch in, it does not come all the way back up when I let off. It seems to fully disengage, it just doesn't return all the way. If I get underneath the dash and push it with my hand and let it snap back hard, it fixes the problem for a few moments, but it doesn't stay fixed. This just started happening this afternoon. Ideas?

First off, this board is incredible. I'm basically a consumer mechanic (oil change, spark plugs, the occasional crisis with help from my pops) and I would have been way too intimidated by the fancy EJ25 to try to figure this out if you guys hadn't made it seem so doable. You could have told me that I didn't know $#!+ and I should keep my ignorant rump roast out of it, but instead you acted like my problem was your problem, and we could figure it out together. Because of that, I had a really fun weekend with my head under the hood getting to know my new rig. Thank you very much. UPDATE Drove the OBW all day on Saturday for around-town stuff. No CEL, no performance issues. On Sunday I decided to put her under a little more stress. Took her up a swervy hill pretty hard and got a CEL (not entirely sure, but I noticed the light right after I down-shifted to go around a pedestrian.) Code was P1507. Cleared that light. Got the same code when I went around a hard corner. I was on an unfamiliar road and I was distracted, so I think I actually went around that corner with the clutch in ( I wasn't trying to replicate any trouble conditions at that moment. I was really surprised when the light came on.) I think the light popped on when the force of the corner hit the car. I pulled over and checked that code and cleared it. I took her up another curvy, hilly stretch and got the same code at a seemingly random time, not when she was under a lot of pull or the RPMs were all that high. I did NOT clear that code (though I did check it, it was p1507) but the CEL didn't turn back on when I turned the car back on. On the way back down I was letting 5th gear slow me down while following another car and the CEL popped back on. This time I did not turn the car off so I could see if the power issue returned, and it did after a mile or so. She struggled up the smallest rises and bogged down when I stepped on the gas. She sputtered when I came to a stop, and I turned her off. when I started her up again, it was like nothing had happened (except the CEL stayed on this time.) Checking the codes after that, there was only the P1507, no misfire codes. After that test, I thought that the problem was only going to arise when I hot rodded her, but I got another CEL driving at in-town speeds after I gave the code scout back to the store. I think I was letting the tranny slow me down approaching a stop sign when it happened. I can't be entirely sure, but I'd bet that CEL is the p1507 again. So it looks like the P1507 is something I need to remedy, whether or not it's related to the sputtering issue (and I really don't have proof that the two are linked at this point.) So where do I find the "trouble tree" for the P1507 code? NB ps, any recommendations for a book that gets me more in tune with this rig? (Chiltons, Haynes etc? I've heard good and bad about both, but never from experts...)

You guys are incredible. Thanks for all the help. Some of the advice you've given me is over my head at the moment, so please be patient while I try to get up to speed. Which book do you recommend to familiarize myself with the EJ25 ( I have the Haynes book for my old Loyale, is there a better option?) Update on the situation: ran some Seafoam through the engine, crank case, and fuel tank. Cleaned an INCREDIBLE amount of sludge out of what I think is the PCV valve (whatever it is, it looked like someone had spit Copenhagen right into it.) Started her up again and let her smoke a while, cleared the codes. I started her up last night to go downtown and the CEL stayed off. Drove around a little bit to get to my various destinations and the CEL stayed off and she drove well. I tried to recreate the problem I had before by slamming on the brakes a few times and got no CEL and no misfires. I have some driving to do today, crossing my fingers. Will update later.

Borrowed a code scout from a local parts shop. Got 4 codes the first time: 0303 0304 0507 1507 Cleared those and started her up a couple of times. I got the 0507 every time I cleared it and re started her. Code scanner says that means "idle control system rpm higher than expexted." The first 2 are the same misfire codes the mechanic got last time around. The scanner didn't have an answer for the 1507 code. Thoughts?

Nice! I could do some elk scouting as well on the drive back! Tell you what, opus, I'll have to do that another weekend because I've got a bathroom remodel to screw up tomorrow, but I'll take you up on that offer sometime!

How much do I put in? Bonus question: When I remove my oil cap, I sometimes have a milky brown gelatinous buildup on the bottom of the cap. What's that all about?

I have a 92 Loyale, manual tranny, 186K miles on it. Somebody behind the counter at an auto parts store once told me that I shouldn't add Seafoam directly to the oil unless I'm going to drop the pan, because it will drop all of the gunk to the bottom and it won't drain on a regular oil change. Did he know what he was talking about?

According to the VIN tag: 99 Legacy Outback Wagon EJ25 engine TY754 Manual 5 speed tranny

Car has 164,000 miles on it. Previous owner was a relative of mine and she bought it with 130K on it. She bought it from a guy (she says he was a Suby mechanic) who had done some serious rebuilding of the engine. He documented all of it, but I don't have those docs yet (she's sending me the records now.) She put 20K on it before this problem showed up. She bought a newer OBW and offered me this one cheap, and I just had a vehicle go tits up, so I took it. Will OEM wires have any distinguishing markings on them? I found the receipt for the work with the wiring kit part number on it, but it doesn't indicate manufacturer and they don't have a brand name on them. They fit well and don't look out of place, though. Mechanics receipt said he pulled and cleared 2 codes, one for a cyl 3 misfire and one for a cyl 4 misfire. The CEL is on right now, solid not blinking, whenever I turn on the car. I don't have a code reader. Any way to pull the codes myself without one?