cadetman

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Thanks for the great info. I have a manual(Chilten) but not the Haynes. I does not give any clear cut way to pull the codes (my check engine light is on). It talks about a MIL light flashing. Whatever that is??? I have had cars in the past that you can pull codes by manipulating the ignition key (like 5 fast on/off cycles). It acts up when warm as well. I can be driving and hour or so, stop for gas, and it will act up. I then limp down the road and it may clear up in a couple of blocks or mile, or not til' the next day. Again, when it clears it is instantanious. Like the snap of your finger.

What is the front bumper cover made of on a 95' Legacy? I need to repair mine and need to know. Did not see an ID stamp on it. Thanks

How do you check the O2 sensor??

When it is running badly it idles poorly. Sounds like it's going to die then catches itself. Down the highway if it downshifts to the tallest gear it shudders like a bad tire. If I give it a bit more gas to force a shift (from say 2800 rpm to 3000 rpm) it "smooths" out. Then it may clear up like it spit out a booger in the injection system. Again its the "fixing itself" thing that baffles me.......... I drove it 350 miles awhile back runnng rough the whole way (a drag!). It sat for a couple of days..... got into it and if fired up nicey and ran wonderful the 350 miles home!

It does not seem to matter if it is the engine is hot or cold. Most often it has "repaired" itself after sittling overnight. I bought plugs, and fuel filter. Do you have to depressurize this?? I have not done too much with injected cars. How do you depressurize if it is needed?

I have thrown just about everything into the tank. The fact that it is on and off again makes me wonder. If it needs a tune up my understanding is that it would run rough all the time. Not get better...... Puzzles the heck out of me, I don't have a bunch of money to throw parts at her either. Thanks

My 90' Legacy Wagon is acted bad. It will run rough sporatically. When it acts up it chugs and has a lack of power. This can go on for a hundred miles of so. Or less. Then it can clear up while driving............ Or I can park it, start it the next day and no problem. I have dumped loads of injection cleaner in the fuel, Marvel Mystery Oil in the fuel. I had thought it was for sure the fuel system but now I am not sure.... Why would it come and go so unpredictably?? Where should I look to first? I'll looked for shorting plug wires when it is acting up and see or hear no shorting out. Perplexed.................................

In my opinion this would be a waste of time and money. With early Legacys going for less than $500.00 on ebay regularly (and often for $200 to $300). Sell the 2WD and buy a 4WD.........

Have to disagree here............ I have had major HORROR stories from private shops as well. I either case, take the time to talk with the service manager at the dealership or private shop. Dealerships usually have the best equipment and best trained staff. If you use a private shop............. Make sure they charge by Flat Rate. You don't want to pay for their education by straight time billing. I had a timing belt changed at a private shop once. They charged "only" $45.00/hour. It took 5 hours ($225.00). Later, I checked with the dealer and they used "Flat Rate" at 3.5 hours and charged $55.00/hour ($192.50).

Rust is a problem in Salt States............ When I lived in Minnesota I enlarged the drain holes in doors and anywhere else. Drill them out and prime and touch paint the metal. Before the car wash make sure you open the doors and clear the holes of debris. Spend some extra time at the doors to make sure they are flushed out well. Now I am in North Dakota and No Salt!!!!!!!!!!!! What a difference in corrosion on vehicles. And driving on plain sanded roads is not bad at all. Later

As a former Service manager for Toyota/Subaru I suggest taking it to a good Subaru dealer for their diagnosis. Trany shops are like roofers......... some good ones out there, but a load of incompedents. A dealer may charge a fee for the diagnosis but it is worth it and cheaper in the long run. Later