[89 Suburu DL 1.8 Timing]

Remember when installing the distributor to mark it on the top, of the rotor pointing to #1, same as the dots on the shaft.

This way you will be lined up when the distributor is all the way in.

The rotor button will rotate around once it contacts the cam gear and will get you off pointing to #1.

The rotor has to be pointing a good bit before #1 to end up there once installed.

If you follw the method in the link provided you will have no problems.

I did a 90 loyale as my first timing belt change ever with no problems.

I'm no gear head just a do it yourselfer who basically changes his own oil.

BTW, #1 cylinder is passenger side front I believe.

[Finally]

Very sharp, is that an xt?

I'm still pretty new to soobs in general but definately becoming a fan.

 

Sorry, it's an rx.

Isn't the xt the cheese wedge looking soob?

[trans, differential fill levels.]

there are 2 dipsticks! the one on the top of the trans takes regular ol' gear oil, somewhere around a quart

 

Thanks, and yes I realize there are two dipsticks.

I just have never seen a front wheel drive only car that had a differential as well.

BTW, I'm probably going to drive up to Harrisonburg to check you all out on the babe rally.

I live about two hours from there south of Richmond.

[A/c.... Can It Be Done!?!?!]

Nothing wrong with that.

My vacuum pump is homemade as well from a compressor out of a mid 70's GE

fridge, works great.

I used Swagelock fittings.

Don't forget to add oil every use and I usually have a fan blowing on it to help keep it cool during use.

[trans, differential fill levels.]

I have a 90 loyale sedan front wheel drive 3 sp automatic.

I don't have an owners manual and want to change the trans fluid and differential oil.

I know the trans uses dexron but what gear oil does it use?

Does the front wheel drive only car even require gear oil?

Thanks for any help.

[A/c.... Can It Be Done!?!?!]

Retrofitting ac is a pain.

I also doubt there is much room in a brat for a hang on unit.

As far as evacuating the system taking hours or 20 minutes remember this.

Pulling a vacuum boils moisture out of the system which you probably won't do in 20 minutes. Yes boys and girls water will boil at room tempreature in a vacuum. Moisture is a big enemy of any ac system. Also pulling a vacuum and seing if the system holds that vacuum is no guarantee it won't leak once pressurized with refrigerant. The forum of this site is a wealth of info on automotive ac.

http://www.aircondition.com/

[Ball joint pinch bolt problems.]

I am not sure your location, but I have had bad time with the car I got from Minnesota. The pinch bolts, were essentially "welded" in place to do the rust, and even a torch could not get it.

I'm in central Virginia (Chesterfield County) but my car I believe came from New

York and has a little body cancer to show for it.

I'm going to continue to soak the other pinch bolt but don't think it will help.

Not seeing how bad the side I just fixed was.

I think the words Subaru and Anti sieze should go hand in hand.

[Ball joint pinch bolt problems.]

Dont underestimate the potential of penetrants + TIME.

 

If you hit the "other" bolt with penetrant (or even just some used engine oil) NOW ... when the day comes to do the other side you will be pleasantly suprised.

Agreed, and I have been spraying the other side with penatrating oil in hopes that it will be easier to get out.

[Ball joint pinch bolt problems.]

Just to add info of my experience for the next poor person that comes up against this problem.

First I soaked the bolt with Kroil. (best penatrating oil on the planet)

Did nothing, so I drilled a hole in the bolt and tried an easy out.

Nothing, heated with a torch and still nothing.

Finally just drilled completely through and will use a longer high strength bolt,

lockwasher and nut.

Anti sieze on everything!!!!!!!

Drilling was very tedious using carbide bits and oiling the bit often.

Not looking forward to the other side when the time comes.

[Ball joint pinch bolt problems.]

Someone could probably mail you one; it'd be about $11 for USPS flat rate shipping.

 

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind.

[Ball joint pinch bolt problems.]

I'd personally grab a spindle with acceptable bearings from the junkyard and just replace that. If you happen to have new or better bearings in the car's present spindle, then you can swap them temporarily while you extract the broken bolt at a workbench instead of on your knees inside the fenderwell.

I would drill through it as much as possible and then see if it can be turned out or something. Good luck!

 

Well replacing the knuckle would be easiest but gl/dl/loyale subarus aren't

very common in our local wrecking yards.

What am I saying, Subarus period aren't common in our local wrecking yards here in central Virginia.

[New Loyale owner, any advice?]

I would never start using synthetic in a high mileage engine.

If it doesn't leak or burn oil it will.

Besides I've seen ea82's go well over 300k and never see synthetic oil.

[New Loyale owner, any advice?]

Keep up on the oil changes and use good quality oil filters.

Napa filters made by Wix are good, Frams are a big no no.

Also ea82's don't like to be overheated so keep the cooling system in good shape.

Timing belt replacement looks daunting with two belts but is surprisingly easy.

[Ball joint pinch bolt problems.]

Had my 90 loyale inspected and needs ball joints.

The pinch bolt of course already has the head snapped off on one side.

I've already read through most every post on the subject.

I have access to a oxy/acetylene torch and am wondering what method is best.