jrfan

A lot of really good advice here. Replace the radiator if you're not sure about it's condition. The factory single row is barely adequate as it is. I use Napa gold (Wix) filters. Timing belts are pretty easy to do yourself, forum member Miles Fox has a great post on how to do them. I leave the covers off as well and never had a problem. The loyale is probably the easiest late model car I've ever worked on. My only other advice is try to stay on top of the rust. Mine has quite a bit of cancer and I don't live in the rust belt.

Need to post this in the classifieds section.

They did come in a similar white but no it's not a factory color. The paint is Valspar single stage urethane in a generic white I bought off the web. I wetsanded the Valspar epoxy primer with 400. I color wetsanded the entire car with 1000 then 2000. Then high speed buffed with perfect it 3 on a wool pad and finally polishing glaze on a foam pad. The results are amazing but it's a ton of work. I certainly understand why a real professional paint job cost so much. Miles is a real character and knows his stuff on older Subes.

Yeah, the swap was pretty simple thanks to Miles Fox and the info from his site. The intake,distributor and all was from the original motor which had a low compression cylinder. I put an ad on craigslist needing a running ea82 and got this one locally for 150 bucks. The guy I got it from knows his stuff about Scoobies and was honest about the motors condition. 150,000 miles but runs strong,leaks a minor amount of oil from the head gaskets with recent timing belt change. Engine was clean as a pin inside with perfect compression. Has flawlessly gotten me to and from work for almost a year now. The Cressida only had rust in a fender so I swapped one from my donor car. Here are some pics of me and my son during the bodywork. My stepdad is a great guy and good to my mom. He's a retired ironworker and even built the shop in the pictures, mostly from scrap material including a lift from a closed down service station. Not trying to boast, just wish I was as talented.

Finally found my mysterious water leak. Fortunate that it was just a loose hose clamp. Here's a pic of my stepdad helping me install a used ea82 into my loyale from last winter. My latest project has been repainting my 89 Toyota Cressida. My first attempt at auto painting and has a lot of flaws. I'm pretty happy with the results though considering my lack of experience and being sprayed in a dirty shop.

Changed the oil in the loyale. Also completed the weekly ritual of adding about a quart of water to the radiator.

I have the same problem with my ea82. Uses maybe a quart of water a week driving to work 25 miles a day. Plenty of cabin heat and engine runs cool as long as everything is topped up. Funny thing is oil is clean as a pin with not even a hint of coolant. Coolant also shows no oil contamination. I figure it's not worth changing head gaskets yet until it gets worse. Been adding just straight water this summer but will have to start adding anti freeze about mid to late October.

The toyota I bought had reciepts in the glove box from a half dozen different quick lube places. Penzoil,Valvoline,Castrol etc. The lady I bought it from was pretty religous about oil change intervals but certainly didn't care what brand was used. Most all motor oils, even the Walmart and equivalent brands are pretty good quality now days.

It was a 75 model car and I bought it in 87 so maybe, I don't know. As far as being told changing brands was a bad idea goes I've had experience both ways. That first car of mine certainly had oil issues after changing brands. I've had others with no issues at all with god only knows how many different brands in them.

I've been told all my life that changing brands is a bad idea. My first car had used penzoil the first 100k. I did a change with quaker state and it used oil and smoked from that day on. My wifes first car when we met had only used quaker state and never a single problem. Engine never used a drop and was clean as a pin. I think maybe the different additive packages between certain brands just don't mix well not that the certain brand is poor quality.

I use the cheapest (usually walmart) 5w30 in my 90 loyale. I change it at 5000 mile intervals with Napa (Wix) filters. I use Mobil 1 in my truck because it's not my daily driver and sits sometimes two weeks or more without being started and also it's my tow vehicle. Synthetic is supposed to flow better at startup especially in winter. I also keep cars forever. Probably wasting my money but it's only two oil changes a year on the truck. My last daily driver before the loyale was a Toyota with 320,000 miles on the original engine that never saw a drop of synthetic. Just whatever conventional brand oil the quick lube places had from all the reciepts the original owner kept when I bought it at 212,000 miles. I agree synthetic is a total waste for most people. My wifes minivan is our most expensive vehicle and gets the most (mostly highway) miles. I use regular Castrol gtx in it.

I'm sure it's still an ea82. I've found it a very easy engine to work on of course mine is just an spfi and not a turbo.

I totally agree. Miles is an expert on ea82 subarus and the guides on his website were right on the money. I have done a timing belt,water pump and complete engine change on my 90 loyale with his guides. Good luck.

Have you tried any wetsanding and buffing yet to see if you can get some gloss?

It's yellow.

If your going a solid white color and you want to stay with Dupont brand why not try their budget brand. Dupont has a budget brand called Nason but it's still a quality urethane product. I shot this hood using Nason single stage urethane in fleet white. It was my first time spraying Urethane and was done in a open air shop using a cheap Harbour Freight tools hvlp gun.

Imron is a trade name for Dupont urethane paint. Since there is no metallic a single stage with no clear coat should be fine and should cost less. Any quality brand should be fine like PPG,Martin Senor,Valspar,Sherwin Williams, etc.

I have researched and read all the stuff on the web about the foam roller method. Yeah that Charger up in Canada is pretty well known along with the white Berreta or whatever it is. Neither one look all that good to me know matter how cheap. Here's a pic of a hood I painted for practice in a dusty open air shop. Not a lick of wet sanding, buffing, nothing. Single stage polyurethane enamel (Dupont Nason) sprayed with a cheap Harbour Freight HVLP spray gun. Don't get me wrong folks I'm not knocking the guy at all and admire any DIY'er. I just think the results won't equal all the time and effort. Good Luck and I'm anxious to see the pics of it finished.

5 years? more like 5 months. Actually I have no problem with a rustoleum foam roller job on a beater car. I certainly wouldn't put all that effort wet sanding cheap paint to get it to shine though. If the OP can find some way to spay it with a gun vs the roller the results will be so much better and much less work.

You could do like I did and post an ad in the wanted section of the local craigslist. I needed a non turbo ea82 for my sons 90 loyale. A local fellow emailed me the day after I posted the ad saying he had a good running ea82 with about 125,000 miles already pulled from the car, $150 . The engine has been running great in the car for about 4 months now. Good Luck.

I totally agree with this. Rustoleum is fine for say a race car that's going to get bashed up at the local short track on a friday night but not for a street car. I sprayed white Rustoleum on a beater chevy wagon years ago. Looked great at first but could just about stare and watch it fade. The time and effort spent in prep doesn't justify cheap materials. If you insist on the Rustoleum at least add a hardner to it to help with fading. Don't breathe the stuff as isocyanates are really bad news. As far as that Corvair in the web goes, white is the most resistant color to fading. I'll also bet it sits in the shade when not being driven and washed and waxed often which really helps paint longevity.

The best way to check a bulb is with an ohm meter. Good Luck.

Doesn't always work, certainly didn't in my case.

I totally agree with this. You don't see hardly any Subarus compared to Toyotas and Nissans here in Va. Slim pickings in our local wrecking yards as far as Subarus go as well.

I'm pretty new to soobs as well but i"m sure the fuel pumps are the same. Easy enough to check the pump and change if needed. Be warned a replacement pump is expensive. The fuel filter is under the hood so easy enough to undo the fuel lines to find out if you are getting fuel to the filter and throttle body. The fuel pump is located under the car just forward of the passenger side rear wheel. good luck.