BuddhaRoadkill

http://www.oregon.gov/ODF/TSF/docs/08docs/08_OHVGuidemap.pdf (takes a minute to load, worth it)

do a search on starters. There is an easy fix by adding a relay. Easy, but nothing less than a gift from god. Until then, pop the hood and use a coat hanger.

Um ... is the hose that hangs off the bottom of the canister supposed to connect to something? Mines just hanging there all lost and lonely. I don't see anything within reach thats missing a hose. Vent to atmosphere maybe? edit: looks like it fits into a hole on the body. Vent to Atmosphere it is!

I'll second that!

Thanks guys. Finally got a chance to do the test and things aren't looking to bad. All cylinders topped out at around 7 turns, cylinder 1 at 190 and the other 3 200. From what I'm reading, that means I may have some worn rings but the oil puking elsewhere. ... onward to more testing! I'm guessing it's the oil pump, but I wanted to make sure the engine was worth a poo before I started throwing more time and money at the lil' beasty. Not looking foward to the timing covers, especially with the bolts spinning in place. Not sure how I'm going to attack that. :-\ (got some front end issues as well - bad hub)

Thaaaaaaats what I was looking for. Thanks a lot GD.

When doing a compression test, what's the best way to disable the spfi? Which connectors are the right ones to disconnect and where are they located? (The only thing I know about cars I've learned from this site while torturing my loyale. My taxonomy is lacking :-\) Keeping Your Subaru Alive mentions TWO connectors located in front of the throttle body but I'm only seeing one - which I think is called the Throttle Sensor Electrical Harness (4 linear prongs). Chiltons says to disconnect the cold start valve and ALL injector connections. (Cant find a picture that tells me where the cold start valve is) Haynes doesn't even mention fuel injection, only disconnecting the high tension wire of the coil. (Thanks for letting people destroy their engines haynes) Seems like a really simple test, if I knew the names of the parts I'm looking at The only way to learn is to just jump in and do it, so any guidance ya'll can offer is greatly appreciated.

thanks for the detailed info on redrilling. trying to attempt this without a drillpress seems illadvised. anyone in the corvallis,or area got a set of pre-drilled rims for sale?

About to do an oil change and thought I might try something fancy instead of just the generic 10W30. Search won't take oil as a key word so even though I'm sure this has been asked a 1000^n times before, I have to ask again. Anyone found an oil that ea82's like? Synthetic? mobil 1 is on sale! Also, is there a trick to removing the oil pan? As always, Thanks for any input ya suby masters have to offer.

That was the trick I needed. Quick and easy indeed.

Any tips on this "quick and easy" job? As mentioned, I'm new at this. It seems pretty straight foward except for the engine fan. Looks like I have to remove it before I can even get to the belts. Do I need to completely remove it or does it slide in on the axle, allowing me to slip the belt around it? 92 Loyale. 1.8L EA82 spfi with AC.

Yes, EA82 in a 92 Loyale. Thought I put that in there. Sounds like I'm good to go then. I'll poke around the intarwebs and see if I can find a how to on these belts. Sounds easier and cheaper than I thought. Thanks again for the help.

I popped the hood to see what that funny noise was and found my ac belt arm-wrestling with my oil dipstick. Does this belt run anything else? Will driving it around without this belt do any damage to the engine? It will be about a month before I can get the time/money to deal with belts and that "learning experience" [never changed 'em myself]. Being my one and only vehicle, I would sure like to still use it. What say 'ye Subbie Gurus? Thanks for the help once again.

All the willingness in the world is useless if you don't know where to begin. I've had great luck on this board before so I'm hoping someone will take the time to give this file a listen and help me determine what the tapping sound is. It's obviously not the TOD. I'm really REALLY hoping the engine isn't toast and that I can replace/fix something before it is. History: About 400 miles ago the water pump went out and it was replaced. Radiater is full and there aren't any water spots underneath. Current: I try to religiously check the oil [cold of course]. Checked oil, was a 1/4 low, topped off and drove 100 miles up into the Cascades. Camped. Checked oil before coming home, was a 1/4 low, topped off and came home. Checked oil the next day and there was only a drop on the bottom of the dipstick. Confused, I topped it off and drove around town for about 3 days [40 miles or so]. Then the noise slowly started. Checked oil again and it was about 1/4 overfilled ?!?! Didn't think anything of it, ran some errands [20-30 miles], came home and checked these boards. Saw the dire warnings on overfilling the oil and freaked. [Drained oil to about half] I was hoping the noise would go away after I drained some oil but it's still there. It's not there directly at start up but withing a few seconds it's slowly gets louder. Sounds like a dry engine but I'm not sure how to determine a plan of attack as I'm new to this sort of stuff. Oil pump maybe? Seals/Gaskets? Other??? Thanks for any and all advice !! File on putfile: Click here to watch Engine-noise-27

Thanks all. I was about to bust out my grill.