guydakine

Hey, I know this is a little late on this thread but,,, I just went through the same thing so maybe we should update this. I found some nice 225-60-16s for my 2002 Forester (takes 215-60-16), I went to get them mounted and he said "no can do", he said the computer will read immediately that the size is different and your car will shift weird, brake weird and that I may also ruin my transmission.. I looked further and talked with more mechanics and they all agreed, you can not change the size of your rims or tires for that matter other than what is spec'd for the car from the factory.. Any further feedback is much appreciated, can't wait to hear.. Thanks..

Hey all, does anyone know of a compatibility chart or reference list as to what EJ25 engines and transmissions bolt up to one another?? i.e., can a 99 Outback bolt up to a 2000 Forester?? What are the years and Vin codes that match? Thanks.

Hey, regardless of age/type etc. his car is overheating. My '96 Outback did it last year, repeatedly until I took it to the radiator shop and he tests the gasses coming out as it overheats and he knows imediately what it is. Radiator, head gaskets, cracks etc. all give off different gas fume readings which he tests. Cost $60 and worth every penny, the first shop who was reputable wanted $400 for a new radiator and the heads were blown.. Or he would've rebuilt it for $2000!! Glad I didn't take his advice.. Anyway, I opted to buy a JDM engine from eBay from Japan, $1100, less than 50,000 miles, runs like a sewing machine and will for another 200,000, sweet deal.. The engine swap is fairly easy, do it yourself and save some more money, this forum can walk you through every step for sure. Plus you have all the used parts from the old engine you can sell on eBay! Why put a head job on an old engine, just get a newer engine.. My 2 cents worth.. Good luck..

Update; I'm a little stuck, no manuals on Maui or in Hawaii for that matter, I'll look on Ebay. So, I can't seperate the drive shaft from the rear of the trans?? What am I not doing, I'm ready to remove the trans but can't due to the driveshaft. Also a frozen swing arm bolt won't allow me to free one axle, about ready to get out the dremel and cut it off, somebody used some major thread lock on it.. Also could someone give me a detailed step by step on the torque converter to flexplate removal and install, or the URL to it's location online or on the site?? I need to not mess this up, very scared as I've heard many disaster stories about screwing up badly.. Thanks.. Or,,, could someone with a manual scan me or take a photo of the detailed page out of the Haynes on how to do these steps?? Also, I'm referring to the "drive shaft" out the back of the trans to rear end, not the axles, as I've heard the axles referred to as the drive shafts as well..

Hi all, Got a new '02 Forester with a bad automatic transmission, found a good used one for cheap and doing the swap as we speak. Couple quick questions and will add some more tomorrow night after working on it all day with newer issues I'm sure. The old trans had code#TZ1A3ZC3AA-PM,,, the new trans, also an '02 has code#TZ1A3ZC2AA-P8,,, the only difference being the 3AA to 2AA and PM to P8, I was told it would be a perfect match, any issues anyone knows of please let me know.. Also, I did an engine swap on a '96 Outback with an auto trans as well, it was a bi at ch but had success without ever opening my new Haynes manual! Sold the Outback with the manual.... So first, do the axles need to be freed from the ball joint in order to swing out free for removal?? Also most pics I'm seeing posted don't really show in detail the torque converter bolt up and alignment procedure. What should it line up with and how do I know where I'm at in relation to the engine/trans being inline??? So afraid of what I've read about the transfluid pump.. When I did the Outback it was a miracle I didn't ruin it, as I aligned the bolts to TC using a screwdriver to move the flywheel, it clunked loudly into place, meaning I was just about to destroy my pump for sure.. If any of this makes sense please reply to it, I'll check it in the morning and will pick up a manual as well. Thanks.. Forgot, are the 4 bolts to the Torque Converter/Flexplate in a pattern?

Hi all, Got a new '02 Forester with a bad automatic transmission, found a good used one for cheap and doing the swap as we speak. Couple quick questions and will add some more tomorrow night after working on it all day with newer issues I'm sure. The old trans had code#TZ1A3ZC3AA-PM,,, the new trans, also an '02 has code#TZ1A3ZC2AA-P8,,, the only difference being the 3AA to 2AA and PM to P8, I was told it would be a perfect match, any issues anyone knows of please let me know.. Also, I did an engine swap on a '96 Outback with an auto trans as well, it was a bi at ch but had success without ever opening my new Haynes manual! Sold the Outback with the manual.... So first do the axles need to be freed from the ball joint in order to swing out free for removal?? Also most pics I'm seeing posted don't really show in detail the torque converter bolt up and alignment procedure. What should it line up with and how do I know where I'm at in relation to the engine/trans being inline??? So afraid of what I've read about the transfluid pump.. When I did the Outback it was a miracle I didn't ruin it, as I aligned the bolts to TC using a screwdriver to move the flywheel, it clunked loudly into place, meaning I was just about to destroy my pump for sure.. If any of this makes sense please reply to it, I'll check it in the morning and will pick up a manual as well. Thanks..

Hi, could anyone tell me just what years are compatible or is there a "cross reference chart" of what engines and transmissions are interchangeable and what years and models as well?? Here's what I've got and what's available, I've found an '02 Forester in need of a trans for cheap, and luckily I've found a trans locally for a fair price as well. And, a '96 Outback is also availble that has a 2.5 engine and auto trans, could the '96 trans fit the Forester?? Same engine? Same bolt up? Any help is much appreciated. Thanks, aloha..

Disconnect battery for 10-15 minutes, it will go out. If it comes back go to Auto Zone, most likely the speedo.. Then with the high mileage it could be a number of things,, Auto Zone...

Hey, I just swapped out my 96 Outback 2.5 EJ25 due to the blown head. Whether it's head gasket or cracked it's a major PITA job which will go into the $1000 plus range when you're done. When I had to face the music and decide I chose to gamble on one of the Japanese trade ins on eBay for $1000 with 50,000 miles. It's true these engines are perfect, the job was way easier than messing with the head gasket gamble, is it gasket, is it cracked, is it way too old and tired to even waste your time and money. My new engine ran like a sewing machine from day one without a sputter, so far 6100 miles and no issues. These sellers on eBay have lots and lots of engines, make clear what you're getting, ask about wiring harnesses etc., what's been cut. Their prices have come down a few hundred since the recession as well, most likely get one for about $750 now including shipping.. I saw an STI 2.0 with a 6 speed trans go for $750, that's a $10,000 package.. Good luck.. http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=m38&_nkw=subaru+engine&_sacat=See-All-Categories