daddycoolj

I'm taking the transmission out of a 95 obw everything is disconnected except the torque converter to drive plate bolts. Looking at the ready to transplant transmission, I see the space in the bottom of the bellhousing that would give access to these bolts. Under the car this space is blocked by the front carriage cross member and the steering rack. How do I gain access to these bolts? I'm thinking it will be best to get the torque converter out with the transmission.

Since you guys insisted that you didn't know of any changes, I decided to take pictures of the plugs to post. I first checked the date the car was made. I heard a rumor that the 95 models had some quirks. Mfg. date is 01/95. When I took the pictures of the plugs on the 98 trans, I then realized that I was separating the wrong connectors inside the engine compartment of the outback. The trans wires are closer to the firewall than I thought You were right all along. Thanks much for the input.

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Sure enough, the plugs are different. Different shape and pin configuration.

When I took the gt trans I cut the wires behind the connectors to leave a workable pigtail just in case. matching wires with different color codes was my concern if I had to splice in the connectors. My speculation was if I could figure out which wire did what it should work. Should the speed sensor and inhibitor switch be swapped out?

Here we go. I have a 95 obw with a fried auto transmission. TZ102ZAAAA-C7 I have obtained a transmission from a 98 legacy GT. TZ102Z2DCA-KE I also got the rear diff from this car so the ratios will be the same. The electrical plugs don't mate up with the obw and the new trans. I have gotten different opinions from "experts" locally about matching up wires to make this swap happen. This looks like a golden opportunity for someone to really show off some shade tree wisdom, so I am patiently awaiting your sincerest responses.

I've had the best results replacing the contacts and brushes in an OEM starter. Maybe find one at the junkyard in good shape or fixable. The local starter-alternator boyz that I deal with get around $30.00 to make one right again, if you don't want to DIY. These guys tell me that Honda used the same starters on some, but I've never cross checked any numbers. If so, could be easier to find at the JY

We deliver news papers in our 90 Legacy wagon and need for the passenger side rear window to open all the way down. Anyone out there know of a trick to make it happen? I've had the door panels off at junk yards so I know how that works.

First off thanks to all who replied to the previous post about wiring ID for the stereo system. I decided to figure out how to install the new radio without the $40.00 assistance of the local custom installers, since I only paid $30.00 for my gently used deluxe aftermarket unit. Since I'm a caveman used to working with scavenged parts at no cost, I was determined to make my own wiring harness somehow. I took a few pictures so maybe someone else can make it work for themselves. The factory radio was history so I looked at the plug in the back and wondered if i could get it out, so off comes the top of the radio and there is the plug just waiting to be removed. A little further disassembling provided access to the plug and circuit board it was attached to. The plug has a metal frame around it that is also soldered to the circuit board. I was able to heat up the whole area and pull out the entire plug and frame as one. The pins on the plug are plenty long enough to snip at the board if you have anything to cut the plug frame with. Looking at the board I noticed that the plug pins were labeled. This made matching up the wires a cakewalk. The negative speaker wires are all on the bottom row of pins under the positive pins. the negs weren't marked on the board. You can then use crimp on splice connectors to attach the new radio pigtail to the old plug. I soldered mine, but like I said "caveman technology" I can't get my pictures to upload but I'll keep trying ok now try this http://s612.photobucket.com/albums/tt209/daddycoolj5/

I picked up an after market radio/cd player and I need to figure out which wires are what in the 2 plugs in back of the factory radio/cassette. If anyone out there knows the secret it sure would save me a lot of time. I checked several retailers for the wiring adapter but nothing for the subaru in stock, so there. Many thanks.

Maybe this is a virus. I have a 90 legacy wagon with the same problems. Mine seems to skip a gear when it shifts, then it will downshift in a few yards.(like it goes from first to third then back down to second.) only the front wheels have power, but it has torque bind. It doesn't have air suspension. I've tried the fwd fuse trick and the torque bind goes away. when the a/c is on the symptoms are worse, and it idles rough. when i got the car most of the instrument panel screws were out and wires unplugged. There seems to be a lot of "shared" circuits in these cars. I'm thinking of going the loose wire route. I'll report my results soon.

OK, 95 OBW 2.2l AWD auto, reverse goes out 4 days ago, tried the trans fluid "cocktail" so far no good results. I guess its time to start looking for another trans. which transmission will work out for the swap, year model or part #? Next, is a "kitchen table" rebuild something to consider? I don't have auto trans experience but I'm not afraid to take much of anything apart to fix it. I know there are a lot of us experimenters out there that have tried something like this so sound off, good or bad results.

It rolls just fine, reverse or neutral. so far I've been able to point it uphill to turn around by coasting backwards. I added a can of trans x about 20 miles ago so maybe by afternoon something good will transpire.

95 obw 225,316. paid 2100 for it 2years ago with 132000. rebuilt the starter and changed the oil. no other expences

The transmission will not engage reverse, problem started 2 days ago. car has 226,000 miles. First happened when trying to back out of a parking space, shifter moved but the car wouldn't. Moved the shifter back and forth and finally engaged. Forward gears work fine. Today it worked out off and on a few times but now refuses to do so. I have zero automatic trans service experience. I changed out the passenger side axle 3 days ago.