velorossa

My car is a 96 legacy 2.2L 5spd So my Idle air control valve has been acting up alot and I have been thinking about replacing until I found they wanted 300 for a new one. Basically mine triggers the PO505 CEL. What it does is really high idles when starting ( 3000rpm) then goes to 2000-1500rpm and cycles up and down for a while whenwarming up. Normally after than it idles around 700-800rpm. But sometimes the car just dies at idle. When it does that it will refuse to idle but drive okay and will do forever until I remove the 2 little screws off the top of the electromagnet and pull it off and reseat it. Then it's back to normal. I have clean the IAC twice and made sure that the lobe turns easy. So is there something I can do to fix the IAC instead of replacing it?

Yeah thanks Gloyale!!!

So did the new battery and the clean terminals help or is it still doing it?

Hi I have a 96 legacy 2.2L 5spd that had an idle issue. What would happen is when it was warming up it would low idle ( like 300-400rpm) and the car would shake, but when accelerating it was fine. At first I thought fuel pressure regulator was sticky or something, but fuel pressure was fine all the time. I removed the Idle Air control module on the side of the throttle body and sprayed it really good with cleaner. I also sprayed a little in the throttle body itself. Now the car idles like it's supposed to ! So for anyone with an inconsistant idle ( like always too high or low) I suggest cleaning the IAC before doing too much else ( since it only takes 15 minutes).

I thought that the TPS and the MAP would want to give the ECU different readings. If they were in series the ecu wouldn't be able to tell the difference of which one is which. But if the red/yellow is the 5v supply then they could tell the difference b/c it would be in parallel (supply that is) and each component could give the ECU a different signal wire ( being the red wire going directly to the ECU).Unless that's the way subaru wants it where both of them read together as one. Is that the case? Where is the location on the IAC? Maybe I can try cleaning it up. Thanks guys, Nate

I have a 96 legacy 2.2L 5spd First of all there is 3 wires going to the MAP (or in subaru terms "boost sensor"). A red a green and a red/yellow. The red/yellow I think is the supply voltage since it also connects to the MAF and the TPS. But both the green and the red connect directly to the ECU. Does anyone know which one the ground is and which one gives the return voltage to the ECU? Also I'm thinking that my fuel pressure regulator is going bad. Car seems to low idle when warming up for about 20 minutes ( the low idle that is) and shakes the car. It doesn't stutter when accelerating and the spark plugs look okay. If I hold the throttle down just a tad to jump up the idle it runs better. It usually low idles when coming to a stop and after a few seconds seems to go back up again. I used fuel injection cleaner but to no avail. So my question is I seen a universal fuel pressure regulator with pressure gauge and adjustment ( says it fits subaru) for less than $40 on ebay. A stock one is way more. Would one of the aftermarket things work on my subaru? http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=p0.m38.l1313&_nkw=subaru+fuel+pressure+regulator&_sacat=See-All-Categories

I have a 96 legacy 2.2L with the check engine light on. It usually will stay off for a couple days then come on and the code will say bank 1 below threshold, which I assumed to be 02 sensor not working correctly. I replaced it but it came on the same as before. When I replaced it there was 1 black wire and 2 white wires that I couldn't tell the difference between. Could I have missed that one and hooked up the 2 whites backwards? Also how can a person test the o2 sensor for working correctly and is the a easier to get to connector where I can test it. Also I have an intermittent rough idle when warming up. Runs fine right at start up (I'm assuming cold start valve is working) but after a few seconds it idles around 300-400rpm making the car shake a little. Once warm it idles closer to 600-800 and feels better. I've heard it could be fuel pressure regulator. Is there a way to test it. I have a diagnostic fuel pressure gauge, so if the needle is sticky will the pressure read different at idle cold vs warm? If there is a loose body ground could it cause an electrical discharge ( like static shock) when getting out of the car and closing the door? Thanks for your help guys! Nate