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Both my son and daughter had foggy headlight lenses on their Legacy (1990). Junk yard units were all funky yellow. New was real costly. ($200 + per side) After a search on this site found a fellow recommending wiping lenses with a rag soaked in brake fluid. Real good improvement. You'll wonder where the yellow went. Still left something to be desired though. Found 30 micron silicon carbide paper. Real smooth. 3000 grit or so maybe. Wet sanded front surface and it got sort of hazy. Then got Ultra Brite tooth paste on damp rag and went after each lenses for about 15 minutes. Great results. Prior to this never had anyone flash me with those high beams locked on. Now oncoming drivers are p.o.'ed if we don't dim 'em. Cheap and easy. rick w mi

This has probably been asked before. Is there any way to clean the haze from 90 legacy lens? Now that long nights are here it is becoming a real issue. They seem hard to find in salvadge yards and new prices are very painful. I've even considered cobbing some all glass jobs from some non soob but am afraid no one in the family but me would drive it. Also windshield seems to have been cleaned with a scotch brite or somehting and approaching traffic leaves multiple glowing circles that combined with bad lens is a recipe for disaster. I am thinking of polishing just the drivers straight down the road view area. Does any one have insight/experience? tnx rick

It is getting cold here in w. mi. My sort of newly acquired 85 xt non turbo auto is more fun to drive then anything but my old long departed 1964 austin healey sprite. But those charming controls on the steering colume that set the air to defrost, heat, bilevel or vent, do nothing. My schematic makes refernece to a mode control and mode actuator. They are black boxes in the print. Should I suspect here or are there some other common failure items? Fortunately it is stuck on defrost so I can at least dump the dew. tnx rick

just bought a old 89 xt ea 82 auto 2 wd. found a broken cam shaft on the drivers side. upon pulling heads off found discoloration of head bolts. lots of blue. = overheating. right? no obvious cracking between intake and exhaust ports. i am for sure redoing heads, gaskets, valve guides, etc. how likely is it that the lower end has seen significant damage? Pistons and cylinder walls suspect? I want to avoid a total rebuild $$ if possible. suggestions? btw, this sure is a great web site. we should all buy the administrators a good cold beer or three. tnx rick in west michigan

tnx for all the data folks. this is a great site. would be lost without it. appreciate your time. will pay more attention next time a motor comes out.. rick

Only 2nd or third time I have pulled an engine on a Soob. I didn't remove four bolts from torque converter. Center shaft slide out of tranny about 4-5 inches before I could do anything about it. Didn't hear anything falling out of place. Slid back in ok but being a huge pessimist I am thinking the worst. Any insight? rick w mi

tnx alot for the help. will indeed swap both sides now that motor is on garage floor. btw xt is non turbo and putting in spfi cams. rick

found drivers side cam busted on 1989 ea 82 xt I just bought. Pulled cam box bolts out and saw obvious heat discolorization. S'pose need to pull motor and do a set of head gaskets. Will cam from ea82 spfi work ok? Lobes way different or close enough to for general service? rick w michigan.

Low oil pressure on my ea 82 xt. How difficult / costly to rebuild oil pump? Is it a likely problem. What is involved? tnx rick w mi

The crank angle sensor actually has 2 outputs. One sends 360 pulses per disty rev to the ecu. The other I believe sends 4 p per rev. The sig level is 0 volts low and +5 volts high. If you know any electronic geek have them back probe the connector and observe the pulses on an oscilloscope. (very fast voltmeter sort of.) Should show missing or erratic pulses if it at fault. Cold beer says it is the wiring and not the sensor. rick w mi

Had a smoking problem going around corners with my 88 gl. 4 wd auto. found the modulator valve leaky, sucking xmsn fluid in intake. Just one more data point. rick w mi

tnx all. will plug lines and try it out. I owe you all a beer. rick

Man I hope this not the first time this has happened. Some one else must have been this unattentive. Son #3 and I have just put an ea 82 back in 93 Loyale. Shot head gaskets. All things going good until it comes to the egr 90 deg elbow. Heads are reversed. #$%@!**&^ etc. and then some. Can I plug passages and run this way? Any other uniqueness from right to left that will screw me up. Will it run at all? Let's just keep this one a secret eh boys? rick and phil

Just an update. Darned car is still running fine. Didn't find a culprit. Maybe removing, reconnecting, the crank angle position sensor quite a few times has temporarliy resolved the trble. Also checked the fusable links and all appears ok. If and when reoocurs, will completely rewire the sensor to ecu with new fully sheilded cable. tnx all rick

Thanks for all info and suggestions. Did nothing this morning except drive to work and back. -16 miles Ran fine. For now. Have decided to wire from crankshaft position sensor direct to ecu connnector with brand new shileded wiring. Will ground shield on ecu end only. Float the other end of shield to eliminate gnd loop noise. Should be easier then looking for funky old wiring. Will update. rick

Glen Have swapped the cps to no avail. It was an old used unit but symptoms were identicle. I need to go over the ground and plus supply with fine tooth comb. Heck, I don't need it for my hairs any more. Either of them. Although, if ground or plus supply issue it sure seems would show up on the 360 ppr sig. Too much theory after a long day. gn rick

One more thing. Rallyruss. I did not throughly check the grounding of the distributor wire. Missed doing it. Burned out from work I guess. That should be easy and has decent chance of being the culprit. Will notify if and when resolved. tnx rick

Glen- yes the car died while monitoring the fuel pressure. Pressure remained constant. Louis- I have yet to check the cam timing. I believe though that if this timing was off it never would run well. In between failures it runs great. Point 1- fuel pressure always there 2-monitored voltage to injector with o'scope while driving down road. Sputtering occurs in conjunction with missing injector pulses. 3-funk on the 4 pulses per rev crankshaft position encoder also jibe with the sputter- dying. 360 ppr sig looks good. So- the ecu is funneling a bad input sig through the logic and causing the missing pulse string to the injector. Isn't this sort of how the whole thing plays? Man, sure wish I knew more about this stuff. Can't learn without struggling though. I noticed while studying a Mitchell on demand schematic that this crankshaft timing signal is encased in a sheilded wire as it goes to the ecu. Have we seen breaks in this sheild? I hate ripping the blasted harness out. tnx agn all rick on east shores of lake michigan

Glenn Tnx for the idea. I installed a tee at the fuel feed and had pressure gauge on the dash while driving around. Held pretty darned steady at 25 psi or so. That should scratch that issue. Noah- Will keep your offer in mind. I have Mitchell on Demand but it leaves something to be desired. FSM would be delightful. How about a source? agn tnx rick

rallyruss tnx for reply. I am an instrument tech by profession. some times my employer lends me a real good fluke scope with out knowing it. have yet to investigate bundling of wiring. I have the feeling that the misshapen waveforms are what the ecu is really getting and am thinking of throwing a small capacitor on the ecu input wires to see if it can quite this thing down. I don't want to give in and have someone else repair this trble. The waveform does not dropout, just becomes very noisy.

Drove my son's car to work. Died as coasted into my parking spot. The car, not me. Good timing. Wasn't late. Left in pm and sputtered home. Connected white read memory connector and read 11, 13, 14 and 34. 34 has been a long time buddy and has not caused any trbles that I am aware of. I believe these other codes refer to the crankshaft position sensor. Relaced distributor (houses this optical sensor) with a different (used) unit. Ran the same. Replaced ecu with another used- no change. Drove with this second ecu about 1 mile or less. Checked codes and did not flash 11, 13, or 14. I guess my question is does it take more then a short bit of driving to set these codes if indeed the input device is still in error? Btw, put a good oscilloscope on pins 19 ,20 and 21 of the ecu and found the 360 pulse per rev signal looking pretty good. The 4(?) ppr sig had an occasional burst of noise that seemed to correspond to the sube spitting at me. Connector / harness / ground issue? Had to quite this evening. Down to abt 20 f. brr tnx rick in Mi. 93 loyale 90 legacy 88 gl 86 xt

Sorry for lack of info. 4 wd unit.

My son has been driving an 88 gl auto. We are considering swapping this with a 5 spd manual. How big a job? We have pulled a few motors and 1 xmsn, replaced head gaskets etc. Are there hidden nightmares lurking about? How large a job in comparison to engine swapping? Just signed on today to the service. What a great source. tnx rick w michigan