yesyeah

Turns out it's not actually the converter that is bad, but one of the connects has rusted. 2nd opinion guy said I could go to a shop to have it welded (but makes it harder when it does need to be replaced), sleeved (less stable) or just replace the assembly if I wanted to. I found the subaru part for cheaper than the after market) and am getting more work done on the car now (the oil pan gasket at the same time too). I am planning on keeping the car for a while so I am just going to go for it, but with a different place that I trust more. Thanks for the heads up to all.

Thanks for that input StructEngineer. The horrible exhaust sound really just came out of nowhere. Last week the check engine light came on while my wife was driving home from Pittsburgh - but when she told me it was not long after filling it up with gas, I disconnected the battery, tightened the cap, and it's been fine. That was like 6 days ago. Then yesterday, all of a sudden, the car sounds like a mad go-cart! Will get a different set of eyes on there. I think the quote to replace the cat converter assembly and the 2 gaskets was about $600.

Thanks guys - yes, getting a 2nd opinion. This was the first time where I saw the part HIGHLY exceed the labor in a major way. And when I called back to question it, he said he's make sure yadda yadda yadda. Somehow, the total cost got cut by $150 when he called me back. So we'll see. Sadly, it seems the 80k cat converter federal law warrantly won't help me since the car is older than 8 years - unfortunate. I assume it's okay to drive like this for a while? It sounds horrible though

Thanks for that, Are you referring to this? http://www.epa.gov/oms/consumer/warr95fs.txt I hadn't heard of that before. Sadly, that seems to be showing 8 years / 80,000 miles. While I have under 80,000, the car is a 1999. If there is a 100k warranty situation, I would love to know about it!

was told it was the cat converter assembly. I posted another thread and am trying to delete it but not sure how to get rid of it Sounded like about $600 for the cat assembly and gaskets and installation.

Source of the crazy sound, I am being told, is a catatlytic converter assembly. I am being told it's the rear converter assembly that needs replacing with some gaskets etc. How much should this be costing?? Anyone? Please help, want to make sure I am not ripped off. 1999 legacy wagon 77k thanks!

Thanks so much. Any other ideas? My wife said it didn't really go away at all this time on her morning drive. If it is that converter pipe donut, is that a fix that most shops can handle? It's hard to get to the subaru place, but there is a shop across from her work - was wondering if this was a job in which we could "trust" them.

Last week I had the check engine light on. Figuring it was my wife not closing the gas cap tight enough, I unhooked the negative battery terminal, tightened up the cap and put the battery back on. No more issue. I also posted here about the squeal at start up (generally only the first start up of the day). The timing belt was put on last year - thinking that or one of the drive betls is a bit loose. Since this is her car, i don't drive it much. However, today, at around 5pm, started up the car and it sounded terrible - i mean, like it had no muffler (we didn't hear that earlier in the day when we first head out). It sounded VERY rough. We drove for a while and eventually that rough sound went away and it then sounded normal. We stopped for dinner and at start up - it did it again, and then it again went away as we drove (about 5 minutes or so into the drive). Then later, moving it from the garage to the street, at start up, crazy rough sound. Does anyone have any idea why this would be? What would make it sound like that and then be fine after a while? I am not sure if it has anything to do with the check engine light that was on (not on now), or her oil leak (rear seal and/or oil pan gasket leak). I checked the oil of course and while it was low, it wasn't bone dry. Needed like a 1/2 - 3/4 quart to make it right. Anyone have any ideas? Please help. Thanks 1999 Subaru Legacy wagon @ 78k miles

I just had a local generic shop do it (probably not the best idea). I know them well so if/when they have ever messed something up, they always make it right - which is good - as I have been to other places who fight you on everything. So that's been worth it to me.

Hey all. My wife took her subaru on a trip to pittsburgh from Cincinnati. On her way back today from pitts, the check engine light went on. She said nothing felt different or and nothing out of the ordinary happened. While I do know there is a small oil leak (probably the rear seal and/or the oil pan gasket), the oil level is fine. Obviously I realize it *could* be a million things. But I was curious if it *could* also be a timed message based on her mileage (around 78k or so). Do the cars to that based on possible service intervals? Or is that not even a possibility. Just checking. Thanks! 1999 Subaru Legacy Wagon

head gaskets? Haven't had them replaced.

thanks. I'll have the place that installed them check. I assume they can tighten w/o it being a big deal?

Hey all. 1999 Sub Legacy Wagon. 75k. Had timing Belt replaced about a year ago. Since it's warmed up, I notice that the car will squeal for about 10 seconds after start up - you have heard this before - that horrible high pitched sound right at startup. Then it goes away. Is this potentially the timing belt needing tightening? It's my wife's car so I don't drive it much, but it seems to be only on the first startup of the day - not on other startups later. Thoughts? Thanks!

Thanks for all the replies. I have other threads on this issue. I had a leak - fixed by valve cover gaskets, but there is definitely "seaping" from the oil pan gasket and what looks to be the oil seperator. Need to get some more "looks" but that is what the situation seems to be right now. Timing belt and water pump have been done (I did them early based on the age of the car and how low miles it had, I didn't want to have an issue with it). But if I am getting both the seperator plate and oil pan looked at with all that labor, what other things should I get done that are really easy to handle with it all out? All seals, yes, anything else?

Can you guys give me an idea of what it may/should cost to get the oil seperator plate and the oil pan gasket fixed? I know it ain't cheap and I am trying to budget. 1999 Legacy Wagon 2.2 Thanks.

Thanks guys - it seemed like it was idling rough low/rough to me (much more vibration at a stop than I remember. So I wasn't sure what was up. The mechanic said he was going to come back to clean the throttle body and replace the PCV as well. Thanks again.

1999 Legacy Wagon 2.2 As some of you know, I just had my valve cover gaskets, gromemts, Plugs, tubes, and wires redone in hopes to fix an oil leak. Still not sure if all the leaks are gone, but.... After the job was done Friday night, I drove it just a bit on Saturday and a bit more today. Seems that the idle is at about 700 - 750 when the car started. I warmed the car up and then drove to the car wash (15 minutes or so) and sitting in line at the car wash, still about about 700 - 750. Kept the car on the entire time, drove back 15 minutes and parked for a bit and it was still the same. What is the idle supposed to be at? I am pretty sure that before I did all the work it was more like 800-850 (but I can't fully remember - this is my wife's car and I don't drive it too much). If 700/750 is too low, is it normal for the idle to drop after doing that work? Does it reset itself on its own after more driving? Does something seem "off"? Let me know if you have any thoughts. Thanks!!

I'll see if I can find one, I guess it's safe to just take a low pressure wash to the bottom of the engine from underneath? As mentioned I was told by one shop there was an oil pan gasket and valve cover leak, and since they both aren't subie shops, they could be right on the multiple leak, but wrong on what they were. Thanks again for all your help people - I GREATLY appreciate it. I

John, Thanks so much! As mentioned previously, I have had a leak for a long time. I was told the oil pan gasket and the valve covers. I just did the valve covers and it was definitely messy in there. So those are all set. I took a trip to pittsburgh and back for xmas and had to add about a quart of oil when I got back - haven't driven much since then. Then.... Did the valve cover gasket work this past friday. Both yesterday morning and this morning I checked the cardboard and there is oil down on the board. I will keep monitoring it. I was afraid it may be the oil seperator from the research I did on here reading up on the posts. But so you agree that it may be just old leakage from the brake parts cleaner and old stuff? I certainly will monitor for a week on the board and check it out. I am afraid too that when I added the oil a while back, I may have added too much. I assume that too could cause a leak. Hoping it's just left over drippage. Once my wife starts driving more this week and we monitor it, hopefully I'll have a more "true" test and less stuff on the board. thanks again so much!!

Hmmmm... Still have an oil leak. Got cardboard under the car (gonna check again this morning) seems like it's farther back towards the passenger compartment, center, slightly towards the passenger side. I peaked under the car and it's really wet on what looks almost like some skid plates, past the oil pan (farther back heading towards the middle of the car). I can't tell if it's a full leak or potentially a bunch of old crud that is still sopping down because of all the brake cleaner we sprayed around to clean stuff. If there is a full on leak still happening, it ain't the valve cover gaskets now since those are brand new. Any ideas?

Well, I had some terrific help getting my valve cover gaskets, grommets, plugs, plug tubes and wires replaced last night in the cold garage. TONS of oil on the passenger side, a good amount on the driver side too. It started up and was nice and smokey from the oil and brake parts cleaner all over the place. Since it was done at night, gonna fire her up today in the day and check things out again today. Definitely saw that one of the coil contacts was burned/corroded/green. Seems it's still working but I am gonna replace that (looks like an easy job!). Hoping that the valve covers are the root of the leaky issues and it's not an oil pan gasket issue. Thanks again for all your help with my posts, greatly appreciated!

Thanks. Had the guy look at the car today. He's gonna do my valve cover gaskets, grommets, plugs, tubes, wires and replace my battery clips (corroded) for $75 labor (parts cost $100, all Subaru parts). I am happy with this!! Will look over the car more when we do the work and see what is next. Thanks for the heads up!

thanks! Okay so seals: Crank pulley, oil pump oring, oil pump backing plate screws and cam seals (I think someone mentioned that the phase 2 2.2 doesn't have a rear cam seal to replace). What about the front main seal? How many "timing pulleys" are there? I think read a lot about those just being done when the tbelt is changed regardless if they look bad or not (I didn't do it when my tbelt was changed). Idler pulley needed? (is that part of the "timing pulleys"?) Thanks again!

Hey, I have read through a bunch of posts, but trying to make sure I have the right info. I got my timing belt changed, but didn't get any of the pulley's or tensioner replaced that many recommend doing at the same time. I may have found a suby mechanic to do some side work on the car to take care of some oil leaks I am having. Because he will cost much less than a dealer or shop, I may have him go back and do some of the work that should have been done at the same time. Can someone let me know the following as he's pricing out parts now for me: 1. What should be replaced at the same time as the timing belt? I know the water pump (that was done). But i read about the tensioner, some pulley's and seals. Which pulleys? (Idler pulley? Is there another one? The crankshaft pulley) Am I missing anything else? I read too that the "front seals" should be done while in there. What seals are those exactly? Front main seal? Are there others? 2. Was going to have him do the valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, plug seals, plug wires, fuel filter, and potentially reseal the oil pan gasket (not sure yet on that one). Anything else that I should have him do while he's doing all this work that would be a good idea for preventative maintenance? Might be easier/better to just get a bunch of work done in one day while everything is apart and wanted to do as much stuff that normally goes bad as I can, at one time if it's gonna be reasonably priced. It's a 1999 Legacy Wagon 2.2 Your advice is greatly appreciated as always. thanks so much!!