plodder

LOL. Yeah I have thought of that, but I am going to go through the wires checking continuity in my spare time, I don't have much.. Oh, And SEA DAT, WE DAT!! YEAH SEAHAWKS!!!! Yeah if I do a head job, it would only be for one of my subarus.I have a t-top brat, and like the coupe lifted,and could get one easy enough I think. I would never sell anything I rebuilt, unless it was a bathtub. Maybe in another year.

:headbang:I have been given one with a known overheat, gasket issue, and another that ran when they took the body parts off they needed. What should I do with these? I was thinking about doing a head job/gasket, on the one. Any ideas? Also on the one that ran, I can have the wire harness and ECU. Ith has a auto trans that was slipping.Also a friend says it is real easy to fix that if a guy wants too.

Ok. I have no spark. I have changed all fuses. I have replaced the, Crank &cam sensors, coil igniter, coil, ecu, have not found a wire short. Now what I was saying about my friends car, he has the exact same symptoms only his mostly starts fine. When it doesn't, he can push start it. I have not tried to push start it yet but will tommarrow if all works out. The reason I mention it is:whatever is his problem, could be mine. Could the starter be draining so much, that it not allowing some relay somewhere to fail to do whatever???? Though I believe there are no starter relays on this sub. What you think??

Ok, relay inhibitors, where are they will they inhibit my spark. Also on a side note. My friends legacy wagon will not start with no spark, he found out the other day that it will compression start though...Any fine ideas on this matter??? I've been looking at a good wiring diagram set, but I do not know what and where everything is. I am planning to track the wires down, but would like to have locations on all these relays 1st. Thanks, Dann

Well the cat should be worth 100 bucks alone. But is worth more to someone that needs that exhaust.If clogged I hear you can backflush them with a solvent, but what do I know, just heard it somewhere. Nice score!!

Thanks, I have another posting for the no spark issue. This was "ONLY" for the porpus of ecu identification.Please, if you have any other insights on this issue, I would greatly use it, and thank yee.

No the other ecu came from a known running 2.2. THANK YOU!!!! knowing what is not wrong brings hope to my little quandry. I like simple answers to simple question.

ok

I may need an ECU even though they rarely fail. 1996 legacy outback. mine says: 8D 22611 AC270 JA18000 DAO 5918 What are the important #'s here I have another one I picked up, but do not know if it would run my car. Currently it does not and I have another thread under No spark. But I only want EcU info, that iswhy I have a seperate post. The other ECU is 3Q 22611 ac461 A18-000D24 6304 Both are out of 2.2 manual tranmissions one my car 1996 legacy, the other 1996 impreza. I was told the ac461 and AC270are the only real important #'s. If that is true I need one with th ac 270, if ya got one.. Thanks Dann

alrighty then! I just checked, and I have .49 volts feeding back on sb 2 on the non-power end when the fuse is out and the ecu not attached. I have a short somewhere, and the starter arcing may have bled and blown something. I think it blew the fuse 1st by some internal short in my harness. What do you think?

Ok. My fuses have not blown after I tightened the starter motor the night it 1st had no spark. I had a known good crankcase sensor and coil igniter, so I replaced those. I cannot find any fried wires at the bottom of my main relay box. Let me recap in a better, more informed attempt. Wife calls, car will not start. The fuse sb 2 blows. So i replaced it with what I thought was a weaker than 30 amp fusable link. I have since found out that fusable links are not rated the same and that I used one that has a higher than 45 amp equivalency. That is when I have my wife crank and I watch the engine compartment and see what I believe was the beggining of my problems. The starter is loose and arcing, so I tighten it, and no more arcing. I notice that now, not only is sb 2 fuse(the link I put in) but now the sb 6 45 amp fuse is blown. I replace both fuses, and there is no spark, no more blown fuses. So, I believe I fried a wire or sensor. I am going to look at those relays, you mentioned and the O2 sensor short. Is there anything else new , you can tell me to look at, now that I have put this down better?:-\ I then put in the replacement

Yes, and no bullets dodged here..... My car (wife's )no work

No the ECU is not causing any sparking issues, I had sparking issues, and had fuses blowing, fixed sparking from loose starter no being gounded properly.

sbf-2 is the "always on", to the ECU. And I have replaced the fuse, and have power to my ecu. I have changed my crank case sensor, and will change my coil igniter in 20 min. I will need to get an ECU 8D regardless if it is the issue. I will next look for any links to track down the information I need, just in case 8D doen't actually mean anything. It is for a ej2.2 motor 96. But I believe it is the ecu, and no way to tell as far as I know, am checking everything else. Good thing I have a 88 wagon that runs fine

This time, my 1996 leg out sw (wife's:dead:) blew a fuse, I replaced it, it started and I shut it off. I went to start it again, the fuse was fried (sbf 2, 30amp in fender main box). I had my wife crank, since it was dark, I could see arcing on my motor!!!. It turned out to be my starter was loose and my unattached hill brake cable was touching the starter and arching, acting as a ground I think. So I tightened the starter(no more arching) , put wires to jump as a fuse replacement, but no start. Tomarrow I will put to test what I learned on my last adventure and test to see if I am getting power to ECU. I am hoping that I somehow did not fry my ECU. If so I will need a 2.2 96/97 ecu, I have a 97 2.5 ECU I can trade. Thanks Dann

Sounds good!!! Here's another piece of advice. Grab fuses from inside fender well fuse box, take the crank case sensor, camshaft sensor, coil igniter, even an ecu if it is all a "YOU" pull yard, I would have saved a lot of needless bother and speculation on my last issue, oh yeah grab the starter too(if the same). I grabbed most of that stuff recently and paid about $30.00....Good luck:)

It is fixed, It was a loosewire at the underside of the fuse box, the wire to the ecu.Thanks guys!!!!!!!

Thanks, that is what I was looking for. Scooby wagon Charlie and Captr Abe helped me quite a bit. It s fixed, it was the red "always on" wire to the ecu. The connector was loose. crimped it, then vrooom!!! it runs again. I still do not have an engine light onwhen I turn the key"on" without cranking, or power to my diagnostic plug spot, but my wife's car now runs, Thanks all you guys!! I also now have a 2.5 ecu I found looking for parts to sell or trade, what is it worth??? Thanks Danno

Yes I do have power to the coil pack at the yellow wire, 12 V.

Got an obd2 scanner. It doesn't read anything. It's like theirs no connection. The plug in looks good, but nothings happening. thanks for anyhelp. Dan If you have any other igsight feel free to let me know.

DUHH:headbang:? I need advanced help, and checked the obvious....... UNLESS.......There are fuses I know not of..... driver side wheel well engine compartment, and the in car fuse box by hood release. Had power at fuse for ignition. I won't be here later. :-\

I do not have a check engine light on my dash, when I put the key into the "on" position.

No power to anything, and my son checked for the engine light (I am 20 min. away to use internet), and there is no check engine light, and I think there was one before. So....Where do I check on the ecu for power out, and power in. A local guy has a ecu from a 97 2.2 he'll sell me.