Mehkael

Thanks for the picture. That was very helpful. Somehow I had originally missed others stating that the LucasOil additive specifically failed. On to search for Trans-X.

Hello again thanks for all the help with the slipping trans. I just discovered inside my fuse panel there is an open slot labeled SBF No 7 it is labeled as a 30A fuse. My Subaru is a 1999 Legacy OBW, and aside from slipping trans. that is resolved I have not noticed any problems. When bought used did not have manual, so I can't find any info. Is this slot supposed to be empty like the FWD? Is there any reason to worry one way or the other? Thanks

It has now been a few months since I had the ATF flushed, added AmsOIL, but left out the Stop Slip. Slowly over the last couple weeks the slip has begun to show again. It is subtle and still way better than it was before the flush. I will now be adding the Stop Slip, which I am confident will reduce the slip entirely. I Will update with results. Thanks.

Well a couple of weeks ago I finally had the Transmission flushed and replaced the ATF with AMSOIL Synthetic ATF. I have not added "Stop Slip" yet, with good results so far. For my more detailed post in reply to a "Stop Slip" thread go to: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=835177#post835177 My reply is #70. Thanks to all those that offered advice especially the in depth comments in the other thread.

After much deliberation I decided I would try this magic elixer as well. After reading this thread in entirety and starting a thread looking for options, I determined the best course of action is the additive. I also read that the synthetic trasmission fluid has not been tested alone. I decided I would give that a try first and could always add the additive later. I was barely able to find synthetic transmission fluid locally but they did have all I needed. I first went to the local Advance Auto Parts, but they did not have Syn. ATF or the exact Trans-X stop leak recommended, although they did have a different fluid from Trans-X (which didn't look correct). However, they were able to give me the volume of the 4EAT. According to Advance Auto a 4EAT flush and refill will require 6.8Qts (of Dexron III). I bought a different brand of stop leak endorsed by NHRA labeled to serve the same function. I bought a 24oz. "Lucas Transmission Fix" which claims "Compatible with all transmissions and transmission fluids." as well as "Will not void new car warranties!" I figured this would be an acceptable alternate. Advance also recommended a local Motor Sports shop that would carry Syn. ATF. I found "AMSOIL, Universal Automatic Transmission Fluid" in quarts or a gallon. The label says "Synthetic, GM Dexron III & VI * Ford Mercon * Mercon V & SP * Chrysler ATF+4" implying it is a good alternative for all that were listed. The owner of the shop sang praises about Syn. ATF and Syn. Engine Oil. He did not seem to prefer any one brand but AMSOIL is most effective for him to carry. He has tested it in many situations and found both fluids far superior. His justification for increased price is stability and duration of fluid life, on top of improved performance. I then had a Transmission Shop flush the ATF and fill with the AMSOIL I provided leaving about a half quart low for room for the additive. I have not yet added the Lucas Stop Slip. I have been driving it occasionally over the past few weeks (irony has made me need my truck capabilities lately) and while the improvement was not instant as the original post said (no Stop Slip) it was relatively quick. I would say my trans is now performing 95% without the additive. I may try the additive after more time to see if there is any significant difference but functionally it is working fine now. I feel I need more time both driving and aging to be able to say the Syn. ATF was all that was needed. I will post again when I have more proof. Thanks for all the advice!

Thank you for directing me to that post I had seen only a couple mentions of a similar fix on a different forum. None had the extent and updates this did. Having read more about the fix I will strongly consider it. As others had mentioned I am cautious of an additive as a fix but in this case it would make sense. However, I like to find all options before choosing a course of action, so the original question still stands, what replacement options are there? Thanks again Mehkael

I have not had the trans. flushed. In my research I saw it could be helpful and could delay further wear to prolong use but now is as good a time as any to find a permanent solution. But I should probably try it even as a troubleshooting step. The price sounds good and the time is not a problem, but how difficult is the replacement process? Did you need any specialized tooling? Being a machinist I feel comfortable with mechanical components but have limited Mechanic tooling and experience. Thanks Mehkael

Hi, I just joined because I was impressed by the expertise this site has drawn. I was hoping I could get some advice. My 99 Legacy Outback occasionally has a delayed and jolting shift into 1st from P, R or N. From my research the exact symptoms are experienced by several others and indicate a leaking seal for 1st gear, requiring extra hydraulic pressure to actuate the shift. I found a seal kit, and being a machinist hoped I could do the replacement and save the quoted $2000. I would hate to have the perfectly functional 99.9% scrapped by the failed seal. But recently having spoken with a friend I have more doubts that I am capable or have the tools required to do it. So the question is, what are my replacement options? My mechanic says a rebuild costs as much as a replacement so I should replace instead. If I need to replace I would feel better if it were an "upgrade". I would love to use a CVT, is that remotely possible? I see on wikipedia Subaru makes a couple older cars, and a couple new cars that use CVT's, are these appropriate? I also enjoy driving a manual, how expensive would that be and what transmission is best? Thanks Mehkael