zeke998

1994 Loyale ea82 spfi stumbling. I put a pressure guage in the fuel line to throttle body and am getting 18lbs.psi. It idles fine but pressure does not go higher when throttled up. Dead headed the pump and it shoots to 60 psi. I squeezed the return line from pressure regulator with vise grips to get 23-24 psi and test drove and it runs great. Vacuum to to regulator when checking with a guage at throttle body base is never present. I have 2 extra throtlle bodies and changed the fpr with no difference in symptoms. Could the problem be in the throttle body? Would I be able to re-use the base gasket if I change the throttle body and do they require some sealer?

From a previous post ecu clicking I checked all my grounds and cleaned them and now the click is gone but the car still has a real bad stumble in the 2-3 k rpm range. I'm at a loss because my mother in law was driving it when the clutch failed and since I changed it now it runs like crap. getting a code 34 and cel constantly. Would this be a symtom of the egr or should I look elsewhere? It falls on its face when you throttle heavy under load. Other than the egr what could cause this code and problem. Been searching and does all sube have a ground wire to the pass side intake that I read about but don't have on this one. After my engine pull for clutch job I'm trying to sort if I could have forgot something.

The test connectors are unpluged. The clicking is from relay just above the ecu. What would this relay control? :banghead:The car starts and idles fine just stumbles under load. 2-3 grand on tach. Got new plugs and fuel filter. Don't have a ground to intake on passenger side. Going to check grounds and try coding again tomorrow.

Long story short I pulled engine and changed the clutch. Now I got check engine light and an egr code. The car now stumbles and I hear cycling sound in the ecu. Any ideas? It is a 94 Loyale wagon. Thanks

If by turning flywheel or flexplate the car then starts it's possible you have teeth on flexplate that are bad and binding the starter. If when it happens and you turn the flywheel it then starts as normal remove starter and inspect the teeth on the flexplate. my 2 cents

I had the same issues with my 94 Loyale last summer. I did all the easy and cheap things first but it took a new radiator to fix the problem. and make sure you burp the system. My vote is a new radiator .

I time mine by connecting the green plugs drivers side near firewall.To my knowledge no switch.

Finally got to check this out and the Haynes must be right the wiper switch is a combo type. Now to get switch from parts car as weather permits. Right now I'm enjoying the 4X4 as it's snowing in Ohio and I'm happy with it's performance in the snow.

I have a 94 Loyale wagon and problem with front wipers. They only work on high speed and in conjunction with the washer. According to the haynes manual it does not have the intermitent module. Is the delay system in the main switch on steering column? Searched with no solid answers. Are my wipers true delay type or am I overlooking something? Thanks

The radiator was the problem. Installed new one and now no more cooling problems plus I now have the head test kit for use again in the future if needed. Thanks

Got the test kit and tested twice and the color did not change so I guess my head gaskets are ok. Now time for a new radiator.

Going to get test kit and check hopefully this week. Going to miss my sube and it's milage on my long drive to work but want it ready for winter. Thanks!

Doesn't consume any coolant and hasn't overheated to the point of boiling over. When it gets high on temp guage the overflow gains coolant but after it cools it goes back to radiator. Forgot to mention that it will cool itself when decending a 3 mile hill on my return from work.

I have a 1994 Loyale 1.8 Spfi with a cooling problem. I replaced the water pump with timing belt change about 6000 miles ago. Changed the thermostat and flushed the system along with a new cap. The temps run normal on short trips and around town but when on the highway doing 60 mph it almost gets to the red after about 10 -15miles of this running. Also runs warm when using the a/c . I've burped it and I've changed fan clutch and the electric fan works. After searching I think a new radiator is the answer. What else could I be overlooking? Runs great 30+ mpg.

I have a 94 loyale wagon with a/c and the clutch fan spins free with no resistence even when almost in the red. The electric fan operates properly with the a/c but gets no help from the belt driven fan thus running higher than normal temps. Without air on the temps rise when doing hills. There is no subes in junk yards in my area any ideas on where to find a good used fan clutch ? Is ther a way to hotwire the electric fan till I locate fan clutch? Thanks

I have a 94 Loyale wagon and lost gas cap. Checked at local parts store and was told they have vented and vacuum style Which is correct one? Thanks

It was the drivers left side.

Thanks all !!!!!!!!! One tooth -off She's fine now:banana:

Thanks to everyone here! I went back to start of my project removed timimg belts and started from scratch again reinstalled the belts along with a new water pump this time. Adjusted the timing and now it runs good. I had fuel pressure problem now fixed, along with I must of been a tooth off on drivers timing belt giving me the code 11. No codes now and all is good. This is a great forum !

I have a 1994 Loyale 1.8 SFI with driveability problems at this time which I first thought was fuel. I got the car with the drivers side timing belt broken. I installed new belts. I installed new plugs, wire ,cap and rotor. Set the timing at 20 degrees with the green connectors together as label under hood states.The car starts easily and idles very smooth . With the car in neutral it revs fine but when I drive the car it stumbles and seem to have no power but seems to run better at high RPM's after the initial load on motor becomes less. I've changed the fuel pressure regulator , pump and filter. I get a code with the white connectors plug together code 11 crank angle sensor signal.Is it possible for the car to start and idle fine but have drivability with this being a problem? I've searched this forum and can't seem to find an answer. Is there any way that I could have made a mistake on the timing belts and it still start and run but with the driveability problems. Any suggestion for me ? I can keep my old VW bus, Fords running fine but this car has mme stumped. HELP

I've changed fuel pressure regulator and pump. Double checked my timing belt installation. New plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Still stumbling bad and finally got a code 11 with white test plugs together. according to my Haynes manual it is crank angle sensor circuit. Timing is dead on and the car starts instantly and idles smooth but have an acceleration problem driveability. Is there any servicing of this type distributor or do I need another one or am I overlooking something?

When I checked for codes all I could get was code 5 for destination no others If I was doing everything right . It has new plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. I also changed the fuel filter. It idles smooth and runs decent under light acceleration on level but on an incline or when I floor it it stumbles and no power. With the fuel pressure guage I'm getting the same pressure reading throughout rpm range. I had an identical problem with my Ford truck and it was the pressure regulator but with the price of a new one would like to not be overlooking something. Zeke is my dog.

Hi, I'm new here and to my 1994 Loyale. It was given to me by my brother who is an owner of a 91 Loyale with low miles. Having two Loyales he decided not to fix the broken timing belt and now it's mine. I replaced the timing belts and the car ran fine. Now it bucks when under load and climbing hills. I'm getting only 17-18 lbs fuel pressure with the guage hooked in the place of the damper on feed line to the Throttle body. When I deadhead it rises slowly. I've searched and the Haynes says 17.5- 24 psi and from searching here it should be higher. Should I look at the pressure regulator or the pump? If pump I want to use the ford truck pump because of availability.I think I'm on the right track but need some opinions Thanks