quazi

So why does Subaru offer a limited slip in the XS models? IIRC, a standard clutch-disk type limited-slip provides around an 80/20 power split. Not a huge improvement over an open diff, although someone stranded in the sticks would have a different view, I'm sure. JW

Sorry, nipper--- The Subarapture has me speaking in tongues.

OK--- My REALLY bad... Dense, dense. But I've got it now. The scales have fallen from my eyes. I'd like to erase my previous post so as not to confuse anybody else. The center diff, rear diff thing had me chasing my tail. The XS models have limited slip diffs in the rear, but I care about this not at all, except to say that what I have in my 2.5X is an all wheel drive in the same sense that my old-school rigs are "4 wheel drive" when in reality they are 2 wheel drives: one front and one rear unless they have limited slips, or some type of locker. I think this has been part of my confusion----thinking that my Subie was some totally different, mysterious machine, whose VISCOUS-Cous-cous-- COUPLER-Coupler-coupler untethered it from the physical bounds other vehicles must live by and magically managed power to all four wheels. What it does is transfer power to front and rear, on wet or dry pavement, full-time, something that would tear apart a locking 4 wheel drive. Which I guess is kinda' magical. Now if you had a V/C at all four corners... It still looks pretty easy. Easier now, I think. Thanks, all JW

Thank you, johnceggleston! Great link. Somehow, hours of googling and binging didn't get me there. I focused on getting to the rear diff blow-up, but if the rest of that site is organized in the same way, it's golden. It is binding right and left. Just like my Cornbinder will do with too much traction in 4WD. More of a scuffing, rubbery feel than a metallic clunk or tick. With the design of the rear diff, changing this part looks way easier than I would have expected. JW

I've searched here and far and wide for info on the viscous coupler. Maybe my my overheated searching has caused the fluid in the diff situated between my ears to seize-up, but I can't seem to determine how many viscous couplers my '03 Forester (5sp MT) has. I've read identical accounts of the clunking trouble when tight turning, warmed up and at slow speed. This often points to a diagnosis of viscous coupler failure. For the same symptom, some diagnose "bad V/C in center diff" and some "bad V/C rear diff." 'Ow many V/C's we got, mon? Leaving aside whether my V/C diagnoses is correct, if we have two, how do we know which one's bad? Subaru's not too forthcoming in the parts blow-up department, I've noticed, and my Haynes manual doesn't even list ONE V/C! Thanks, JW

I put in a bottle of Subaru additive with the new coolant; heard about that here. Sounds like you guys think it's not the kind of thing that gives it up suddenly and leaves you by the road. Not a gusher.

I changed my valve cover gaskets and o-rings and set my valves at the same time I changed my timing belt ('03 2.5 non-turbo Forester) hoping to solve an oil leak which appeared around 90,000 miles. Still leaking, and this weekend I removed the lower shroud and washed the underside of the engine with special attention to the driver's side block/ head area. Sure appears to be leaking from the head gasket, but no coolant in oil or vise-versa or external coolant leak. Searching here, I've read conflicting advise about how imminent further gasket failure might be. As annoying as oil leaks are, all my cars have them to some extent and if it's just something I'll have to live with, so be it. But if I've got to suck it up and pull the engine and replace whatever needs replacing, I'll do that, too. I'd rather not. How urgent? JW

Road tested today---- purrs like a kitten. Hope my choice of the .008/.010 was the right one, as I'm taking a trip to AZ. I usually like to leave more shakedown time before a trip--- Check that---I always like to but somehow never do. Smooth, quiet, noticeably more zotz. Thanks to the folks that pitched-in. JW P.S. Picked up the Subaru coolant conditioner today, Grossgary. You should have warned me that they get almost 2 1/2 dollars for it.

Quiddam--- It's been a long time since I had to think about valve adjustments and I think there's a little confusion since a loose feeler gauge then means a tight valve. Thanks for the check of my fundamentals. Grossgary---This board is a great resource for home mechanics. If I was a dealer or Subaru pro, I would probably get advisories and updates about new recommendations. If I hadn't checked-in, I would have blissfully driven into the sunset and possible unnecessary HG failure. Lost my brake assistant for now, but I hope to road test today. JW

Here's my thinking... Experts please correct me if I'm wrong. Valve lash is the slack between the rocker arm and the valve stem. Less lash(Subaru factory specs, and also Haynes) = more valve lift or "looser" valve = longer duration open and more gasses passing through. More lash(underhood sticker)= less lift or "tighter" valve= shorter duration and less time for gasses to intake or exhaust. If this is correct, more lash (within the range of specs I'm talking about) is more restrictive and should mean hotter exhaust valves, and emissions-wise perhaps more complete combustion of exhaust gasses. Assuming there is no mechanical difference between my engine and Grossgary's, the performance and engine longevity choice would be his, Haynes' and the Subaru factory manual. The emissions choice would be the settings on my sticker. Neither will result in engine damage in the short or medium run. Any comments would be appreciated. Meanwhile, I'll be on my sizzling driveway working away. Thanks, JW

Hi Grossgary--- The tip on conditioning the coolant is much appreciated. I actually read either in Haynes or my owners manual not to put additives with the coolant. I'll hit the dealer Monday. The sticker is factory and is underneath the hood near the hinge, driver's side. I'll try to attach a pic. Of course, after sleeping on it, I'm wondering whether my engine is any different than yours or whether it's just California emissions "de-tuned".

Maybe it's a California emissions thing. I'd feel like a dope ignoring Subaru's sticker 2 ft. from #4 valves. I'll call the dealer about the coolant additive; is it like Redline's water wetter ( I think that's what it's called.) Thanks, JW

Adjusted the valves and changed the valve cover gaskets today. All set to put in the new plugs and wires after gapping the plugs. I was checking the Haynes manual for plug gap specs. They listed different plugs for EJ251 type I,II,III. I started to look around the engine compartment for an indication of which I have when I found the emissions sticker on the hood. The emissions sticker from Subaru says intake valves .010", exhaust .015". I adjusted my valves to Haynes specs of intake .007"-.009" and exhaust .009"- .010". Oh well, I'll just wait and see what happens. Just kidding. I'm pulling the VCs off again in the morning and adjusting them to Subie specs. For my Scout and my old Fords I have factory manuals, so I know better. Got to get a Subaru manual. Nothing worse than tight exhaust valves. Also, I finally found a 1/2" drive 14mm allen wrench for the coolant drain plugs. There were no torque values for the plugs, so I got underneath with my 1/2" torque wrench to see at what torque they broke loose. When they refused to budge at more torque than the crankshaft pulley bolt, I quit trying, fearing I might tear a chunk of the block off with the plug. I'm going to flush the system with the plugs in place---is that bad? Has anybody noticed that the lower radiator hoses are much harder to find than the uppers? JW

Thanks, They spun freely, but had no play or roughness. I'll re-visit this job in the next 25-30,000 mi and have all my ducks in a row before I tear into it again: pulleys, water pump, seals, etc. It really hasn't been that bad so far. A lot of this is just proceeding with caution as I get familiar with the car. JW

Survey says interference. No safety net!

The timing belt thing freaked me out a little. I'm unclear whether I'm working with an interference or non-interference engine. The Haynes manual warns about major engine damage should I not line up the belt correctly which added much gravity to the job. I haired-out of changing the water pump and the rest of the pulleys 'cause they all checked out OK, and I wasn't keen on messing up the camshaft positions to change seals which weren't leaking. It just seems like original factory parts last longer than aftermarket marts. That's my story and I'm sticking to it. Everything has gone back together nicely so far and when she fires back up I'll be more confident and courageous next time in. I'm making notes in my manual so I don't forget the different special techniques I devised to hold the crank pulley while breaking loose and re-torquing the bolt. And the secret to getting the new belt on without moving the camshafts. JW

Grossgary--- I was reading Fairtax's tale of woe and now realize that you were referring to an OIL pump reseal. You even wrote oil pump, but I read water pump. I've always chucked a water pump, too, but I'm new to Subie-tech. I think you are leading me down the road to Complete and True Maintenance, where attention to the oil pump is but one more test to be completed. Since The VW and 4-stroke Era, I have not done valves as they've all been hydraulic. I always liked adjusting valves. Smells like history! I'm really seeing why you folks love these engines. JW

Hi Grossgary--- Do you mean if I was not going to change the water pump, I could reseal it? I'd like to get back on the road ASAP, and getting the new parts of the timing belt kit and also the valve cover gaskets will take more time. Generally, though, I like to put $ saved by doing the work myself towards going the extra mile while I'm into it. Will the pulleys/tensioner give any warning before they fail? Other than removing the resonator and the battery and washer res, it looks like the valve cover/ valve adjustment is a separate job. I'm guessing that you're thinking the oil in my #4 spark plug tube is from a seal at the top of the tube that I'll replace with the VC gasket. Thanks, JW

Thanks for your reply. I forgot to mention that I am replacing the water pump as well. I don't know where the cam seals are, but I'll find'em. You think they might be related to the oil leak? Are they "upstream" of the valve cover gasket? JW

Hi All--- Early 2003 Forester with 2.5L non-turbo, manual, 101,000 miles. I've never had a single problem with this car and do the maintenance myself. I'm doing the timing belt, changing plugs and wires, flushing the cooling system, doing the brakes, etc., getting ready for the next 100,000 miles. A couple of things I've come across that seem a little abbynormal: The #4 spark plug tube was pretty oily with relatively clean engine oil, I'd guess about a teaspoon's worth. Although the #4 NGK plug had a too-worn electrode (as did #1; I think they have around 50,000 miles on them), the color was good and none of the oil had appeared to get by the plug's gasket. The rest of the plug tubes had just a trace of oil at the top of the tube. I have been smelling burning oil especially with the heater on. It was dripping on the exhaust. The left side axle boot was a bit oily as well as the steering gear boot; I cleaned both and the surrounding area. The only place I could confirm a leak is at the valve cover gasket seam. I gave the cover bolts a tweak which was probably a tad over torque specs. I'm all dis-assembled, so I won't know the outcome 'til I'm back on the road. I'm not burning a lot of oil (although I've noticed that this engine is more old school in this department; you really do have to check regularly) and have no smoke. Coolant was clear green. Any red flags? Also, based on Haynes, I'm changing the timing belt, but hadn't planned on replacing the idlers and tensioner, but in my searches here some of you recommend doing so. Thanks, JW

Perfect graphic and text on The End Wrench PDF, nipper. As long as the lever is in the "clutch engaged" position the push-rod allows fluid past and prevents the ball from sealing the passage and trapping pressure in the line. Thanks for helping me dodge that bullet. JW P.S. We could use a little of that out here, if you could spare a few buckets!

Dang, that was quick, nipper--- much obliged. I searched this forum before posting, but didn't turn up much technical. I'll check your link, pronto. Thanks, JW

After a brief stop at a neighbors, my '03 Forester (with a five-speed manual) locked-up--- only a few houses down. By the time I walked down to check it out, she started up and drove home like nothing happened. Another test drive and it locked up again, no go forward or back... like brakes applied. I immediately suspected the Hill-Holder, or what I call the "lurch and stall feature". Early on, I bought a service manual and looked into what makes it tick, a rolling ball in the brake system, so, thinking there might be dirt in the fluid, I flushed it out. It was OK for three or four days, but today it locked-up in a level parking lot. I popped the hood and grabbed the cable at the H-H mechanism. There was lots of slack in the cable as if the return spring was not bringing the actuator arm home. I'll inspect it again tomorrow, maybe the fix is as easy as lubing the pivot, but is the H-H supposed to activate on level ground? If dirty fluid could still be the culprit, I don't mind flushing again, but I may not be on the right track. Does disabling by disconnecting the cable take a stuck ball out of the equation? Replacing the mechanism is not in the budget right now, and the manual makes mention about the brake system needing some kind of dealer scan, adding to the potential cost, if air is introduced into the system, as I assume it would be while replacing this part. By the way, my wife likes the H-H feature, so I'll need to repair it at some point. Thanks, JW