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I'm counting myself damn lucky it didn't blow in Buttonwillow the next day!

I borrowed my Brother's OBDII scanner. It's a Harbor Freight Cen-Tech. I don't think they're too expensive. It's sure nice to plug it into the easily accessible plug and get a nearly instant read of any faulty codes. I don't know the limitations of the device, but when I got a "check engine" light, I plugged it in and it told me that one of the exhaust sensors was faulty. If it it is a knock sensor as MilesFox suggests. I'd think it would throw that code. Really nice feature of newer cars. JW

Final update, I hope... On Friday(above entry), convinced I had my coolant problems on the run, I drained the mostly distilled water solution and filled up with Subaru Long-Life and Subaru Coolant Conditioner. On the coolest Saturday morning in recent memory, my wife takes the Forester to the local Farmer's Market, a three mile run on surface streets. I get a call from her saying that there was steam coming from under the hood. Now, not trusting anything I know from experience, I researched the correct cold fill level in the overflow tank and had added coolant almost to the full line. I thought "dang, I must've over-filled it and it overflowed." I opened the hood, started the engine, and observed the $20 Subaru coolant flowing from the upper seam of the radiator. It was 12pm and I was able to have my local independent parts guys load up a new radiator on their last parts run of the weekend. I saved the drained coolant and installed the new radiator, arrived comfortably late Saturday afternoon at my wife's family reunion and hoisted some cold ones. Next morning in my truck, I followed my wife and son driving the Subaru over the Grapevine, through the Great Central Valley, to UC Davis. Forester ran cool and smooth and lost no coolant. I think it was the magic conditioner forcing the failing radiator to show itself. Or, the cool ambient air, after days of 107* heat allowed the seam to shrink apart, or ???? I used to know quite a few guys to bounce ideas off of, but fewer and fewer do their own mechanics anymore. Many thanks, again, to those here who offered their thoughts on what might me ailing my Subie JW

I filled-up the car with guinea pigs family and friends, and in the 107* heat drove 45min hard over the mountains to the coast, A/C on. No coolant loss, needle below midpoint. I dropped by and spoke with mechanics from two seperate recommended shops, one, the owner drives a Subaru. I talked to them about a coolant "hydrocarbon sniff-test" and related my sad story. Both said that given the drive (which they both know), current heat wave and the fact that the car retained all the coolant and maintained its' cool, the test would be unnecessary. I'm ignoring my natural inclination to suspect the worst, but I took the advice, paid too much for Subaru coolant, and added the Subaru stop-leak magic conditioner. I haven't had the 5 month old Stant cap tested, but I intend to, although I know I'll feel a bit like Moses, tapping the rock TWICE... P.S. I refilled with the nice, clean, coolant, in the freshly flushed system. Then I added the clotting agent magic conditioner. Instant floating crapola fairy-dust. Jes' don't sit right, but if Subaru thinks it protects my HGs and doesn't clog my radiator, I'll drink the lumpy kool-aid.

I just rigged-up a test for the radiator. I don't know that it was even definitive for the radiator, but I could see no evidence of leakage around the seams under air pressure in the driveway or in the car.. The only place I ever saw evidence of coolant leakage was on the ground and at the top of the coolant tank and the pulley guard right next to it. I've read posts here during search where folks have mentioned the radiator clogging properties of the conditioner. If I go to Subaru for a cap on Monday, I'll probably pick up some conditioner, anyway.

Yikes!!! Made me look, but tailpipe's dry and sooty. I guess I'd be hoping for 4 equally-tanned plugs.

Both times that I replaced the timing belt on my Forester the belts were Mitsuboshi. I did the second change only because I was doing the HGs and hadn't done the tensioners and idlers the first time. I think AWD Automotive, where I bought my timing and HG parts said they are OEM.

The fans tested OK. OBDII scan clear Radiator shows no evidence of leakage and internals look brand new. I pulled it and looked it over really well. I plugged the inlet with a rubber cap with a hole punched in it to shoot compressed air and capped the outlet. Then added water to the radiator and slowly shot-in compressed air, enough to bulge the caps a bit. No leaks. It took very little air pressure to blow past the cap and thru the overflow nipple, but 16 lbs isn't much, anyway. The HG are Six Star. The upper hose is filled with hot water, and the t-stat is 4 mos old and purchased from AWD, so I assume it's correct. I did not resurface the heads, but cleaned them up as best I could to the desired finish. My HG failure was on the oil side and never contaminated the coolant as far as I could tell visually. Been dry as a bone since. I did not add the the conditioner. I got the impression that it was mainly to aid the old-style gaskets. I re-installed the radiator and fan assy. and took a test drive full A/C up hills. Temp gauge read between the lines, just South of center. I'm at about 800ft above sea level and it's now 105 *. First boil-over was at high altitude, but not necessarily overheated, just a hair above the upper-center line on gauge. Could it be the freakin' 4 month old cap? My son's taking the Forester with him to college in Davis, Ca. next week, so I'd like to figure this out! I'm going to change the cap, then drive the hell out of it this week. It'll be in the 100s here for the next 4-5 days. I guess what I'm watching now is mostly coolant consumption. I don't see how I could be losing the quantity of coolant into the crankcase without getting milky oil on the dipstick. I suppose I could pull the valve covers and look for it if I continue to lose coolant after the new cap goes on. I'll drain the mostly distilled water solution and get the coolant right. If I still get boil-over, I'll just save what I drain and re-use. Stuff ain't cheap!

I'd give you ten likes for that!!! Just the kind of thing I come here for before I start pulling things apart. I have a Haynes manual, and maybe this info is there, but I find that the info you're looking for is buried. Super easy test. Fans are working at both speeds! Thanks

Thanks,1 Lucky Texan I bought the w/pump and timing components from All Wheel Drive Auto in WA. I trust it was the right stuff. I was thinking bad sensor. Maybe OBD scan will tell? Yeah, the source of leak. Looks like some escaped thru top of coolant tank and sprayed on belt shroud. Not so much at the cap. The cap's a new Stant. I never think about this stuff until it's a problem, but the cap is supposed to release before too much pressure builds up in the radiator, right? I haven't pulled the plastic pan to get a good look, I can't tell if it's cause or effect, but the bottom seam of radiator looks like it may have failed and I'll have it checked, but it's not as if I could top with coolant and race up a grade without the temperature gauge coming right up. Edit: Searched fans for this car and came across a note from one manufacturer that said to be sure to reboot computer after installation. I'm wondering if that would be a one time syncing deal or if you need to reboot every time you disconnect the fan. I didn't and had never heard of this.

Hi All--- 2003 Forester. 5spd. 143,600 miles. 5 months ago, did HGs, t-stat,cap,w/pump, timing belt and idlers,tensioners,etc, new hoses. Since then, we've taken several trips over the Grapevine and up the Central Valley to UC Davis, some seriously loaded (not me, the Subie.) No issues at all with the Forester. This week, my son and I took a trip through the Mohave Desert to the Sierras in the Subie, a trip of about 280 mi. with an elev. gain of @10,000 ft., A/C on. When we arrived at South Lake(what's left of it!) and parked to survey the trailhead, coolant began pooling on the ground under the radiator. I checked the coolant tank, and it was not totally empty(kinda like the lake). We got in and drove around 1000 ft. down the mountain and camped. Before returning up the mountain to the trailhead early the next cold morning, I again checked the coolant levels. None to be seen in the filler neck and little in the coolant tank. I added around 3 qts. of mountain water to get up to levels. When we returned to the car that evening, levels were OK but it had been a short uphill drive in the cold air. I spoke with a guy at a radiator shop in Bishop who said he was familiar with the Forester and had owned a Suburu, and that he was sure the fans were turning too slow, and that they worked together as a unit. The too slow thing made sense, although I know each has its' own relay. We continued our trip up the Sherwin Grade to Mammoth Lakes, and then after dark, home, downhill to LA(like the aqueduct) eyes on the gauge, alternately speed-coasting and babying 'til we made it home. This morning, low, but not empty. Searching for answers and asking for helpful suggestions... Thanks, JW

I know I should stay out of this...But I did the HGs on my 2003 non-turbo a coupla' months ago @ 130,000mi. I couldn't believe how clean and sludge-free it was. The piston bores still had cross-hatching! Switched to Mobil One after break-in and I'm less than a religious oil-changer. It's damn expensive,tho. It's my first experience cracking open a modern-era engine. Might have more to do with the quality of mechanical engineering than chemical. JW

Many thanks--- Was thinking maybe the block and heads were the same and that I could switch over my electronics and fuel delivery stuff. I'm not looking to break new ground; don't have what it takes. Back to regularly scheduled program. JW

In other vehicles I've found that higher compression, a hotter cam and advanced timing always = higher octane requirement. JW

Hi All--- A friend's daughter was recently rear-ended @ 50 mph in her new Forester. She and her husband were banged-up, but escaped real serious injury. (Thanks, Subaru!) No official word, but presumably the Forester will be totaled. They had only just gotten their first dealer check-up. My 2003 has 130,000 miles on the engine. I've been saving $ to do the HGs, timing components and WP, and new clutch. Now, I'm wondering if I were somehow able to get salvage, how difficult would it be to swap in the 2013 engine? Has anyone of you done this? Thanks, JW

Thanks, John--- I changed the timing belt a couple of years ago (but not the pulleys, etc.) and as you said, I didn't need to pull the engine. I have a head gasket leaking oil but no coolant as yet. My wife doesn't like the smell of burning oil nearly as much as I do, and it seems reasonable to change the clutch after 130,000 miles, and that's why I'm planning to pull the engine. I posted a little bit ago that the sound identical to the one in the OP's video went away after I replaced the A/C tensioner pulley with a Gates part from NAPA for @ $40. JW

Excellent, 1197sts, Thanks alot. I'll start tracking that stuff down. Can you give a rough idea of what $ you had into parts? JW

I posted earlier today about my upcoming engine pull. In recent weeks, I've been hearing that same whine, and it was enough to get me off my butt to start thinking about fixing my HG, While it's only leaking oil onto my exhaust and BEFORE it leaks coolant into my crankcase. At first, I thought the whine was alternator, but I when I removed the belt, the whine continued. I did not remove the A/C belt because I didn't want to deal with the tensioner adjustment bolt that's too deep in the bracket for a box wrench, and the space 'tween the fan and tensioner bolt that's too small for a socket. After reading the post, downbounds reply, (and listening---Brilliant!) to the video, I decided to pull the A/C belt. (I shortened a spare 1/4" drive 12mm socket by about 1/4" , in a vice with a cut-off wheel on a hand grinder and used a 1/4" drive flex-handle. There, that's better!) The loud, action-inducing whine that was similar to the OP's was gone. I pulled the idler and bracket. The bearing was definitely shot. I'll either replace the whole pulley or maybe just the bearing. There's still a slight whine that could be attributable to the timing pulleys, so I'm still aiming for the engine removal. I shouldn't procrastinate. I shouldn't. JW

Hi All--- I'll be pulling the engine from my 2003 Forester (next week. I hope) to address a number of issues. I'm trying to put together a parts list so I don't have to waste time chasing stuff down once it's out. Does anyone have a list of parts I'll need and/or any suggestions about what else I'd be smart to do "while I'm at it." Dennis111 had a good write-up on his HG replacement, with pics on Pbucket. Thanks, Dennis Thanks, JW

I don't get a lot of time behind the wheel of my Forester; mostly my wife and kids drive it. I drove it around for the last couple of days and I'm amazed at the difference in driveability since I changed the coupler. I would just add to this thread that for a year or more I thought I was just getting bad at driving this manual. It bucked like mad in traffic and I was on the clutch constantly to keep from rattling my fillings. I guess it had just sneaked up on me over time, but now it's a pleasure to drive again. So, I'm guessing that a symptom of a failing coupler would be this bucking, probably due to the fact that the four wheels are semi-locked all the time on dry pavement. This started happening long before the slow-speed-turn-shudders began. JW

While I'm not stoked to be replacing this part, I've got to give Subaru engineers a couple big thumbs-up. First, I love the fact that two wrench sizes do most of the work: the 12mm and the 14mm. Second, the exhaust is really a dream to remove. I approached this with much caution, because exhaust system bolts are notoriously difficult. But it comes off in two big sections. When you unbolt the two halves at the center support, both halves remain suspended: the front half, where it bolts to the rear half, rests in a hook, so that you don't need a jack to hold it up while unbolting the headers. This is especially sweet during assembly. Hook the aft end and swing the header end into position. The rear half of the exhaust rests in rubber hangers. A sponge-load of soapy water helps to slip the rubber off of and back onto steel "barbs". Really a piece of cake. Also, the asbestos "donut" stays with one half of the exhaust, and mine was reusable. For me, there is a big "pucker-factor" going into the gearbox, but all-in-all, this was a pretty easy job; I could do it in one third the time having done it once. A couple more things for future searchers: I didn't want to risk damaging the oxygen sensors, so I left them in the cat and disconnected their plugs( don't forget to unwrap the "twist-ties"). I know this seems like a no-brainer, but at first I tried to get a wrench on the sensors. If I ever have to change them, I might just pull the exhaust just to get a clean shot at them. My shifter linkage was held in place with two roll pins: an inner and an outer. I drove the inner one out first, with a punch, which was pretty easy. The second one was a little tougher, I don't like the idea of pounding sideways on a shaft, so I cut piece of rod around 1" or so long and found a c-clamp with a hole in the screw pad to keep the rod in place; most are like this. I pushed it through most of the way into a socket sitting on top, then finished it with a hammer and drift. I used a hammer and drift to get them back in, large one first, then inner. The big bearing that bolts to the extension case is held on with a circlip, but I still had to use a heavy-duty steering wheel puller to get it off. To get the new one on, I left the shaft in the freezer for a few hours while I took care of other business, and left the new bearing (in bag!) in the sun. It got hot enough to be hard to hold, but not hot enough to sear flesh. Slipped right on, with just a few taps on a large socket to drive it home. I took the Forester on a run around town and some freeway and then to a parking lot for slow-speed tight turn tests. No shudder, and in fact it drove better than in a long time. It had been bucking in first and second but it's much better now. Anyway, thanks everyone for the input. I saved a ton of $$$ doing this at home. JW

I waited and waited until I had the CASH to replace the tires on my Forester. Towards the end, they really seemed to wear quickly. Then I started to get that rubbery torquebind shudder at slow speed turns. I quick dug deep to find $700 to buy 4 new tires. Too late. Wednesday I plopped down 700 bones on the PLASTIC to buy a new V/C and bearings. Yesterday, I rolled around in grease and tranny fluid all day. Today, I re-assemble. Next time, I buy tires on credit and pay cash for a flight to the Islands. JW

I wonder why #4 is missing from the attached parts list.

That's a cool read, nipper. I had a clutch-pack and now a torsen type in my Scout's Dana 44. JW

So, if you never get on the pavement, there might be no reason to replace a burnt-out V/C and in fact might offer off-road advantage?