rvac99

The rod caps are set up like my old Jetta and there is no peeking at those bearings without splitting the engine. I’d rather just drive it I think. I’ll look into another block just in case.

Thanks for the advice. I’ve got the time and some beautiful weather so I’m going to pull the rod caps and see what they look like. I would love to believe that the metal was left over but I just can’t. I cleaned that sucker well and installed all new bearings, new crank, oil pump and all the seals. I’m hoping that the crank is not damaged.

I replaced the crank and the two rods that had spun bearings. No knocking noise. Engine runs smooth as can be. I had a leaking oil pan so I removed it today and found the flakes. This damage probably happened when I was working on my P0341 issue a few months ago. Search for the thread: P0341, and P0340. (7 pages). The engine was running poorly and there may have been low oil pressure during that time. I guess what I could use right now is some advice. I just put a ton of new stuff into this car. Close to $2,000. The exhaust, cat’s and muffler are new as of Feb ’09. New sensors, oil pump, water pump, tensioner. It is still running fine. Should I part it out or try to sell it as a whole?

I spun a rod bearing last Jan and rebuilt the engine. Checked oil pan today and I've got steel and copper flakes again. I replaced the bearings and two crank arms along with the oil pump, and all the gaskets. What did I miss? 2000 OBW MT EJ25

I had misfires and my ECM never knew it. Your ECM might be displaying the wrong code. My ’00 OBW was displaying the wrong codes and caused me a month of aggravation. My problem in threads P0341 and P0340. I had short circuits in my wire harness that were caused by bad seals on the back of plugs B21 and B22. To make a long story short I had sensor wires that, when completely disconnected from everything, had slight continuity with the ground. It was all caused by a conductive fluid that penetrated the wire seals on the back of the plugs. Not an easy fix. I had to use an eyeglass screw driver to carefully remove each wire from the plug. If you do this, do one at a time so they don’t get mixed up. Once you remove the inner plastic insert there is a plastic tab on each pin that you pry up and then pull the pin and wire out of the back.

Thank you again OB99W. And thank you to the Ultimate Subaru Message Board. I can’t imagine what I would have done with out this assistance. My hope now is that someday someone else will be helped by this dialogue. I'd also like to thank Rick and Mike. Rick was more than generous and was also a huge help.

Back running like normal! I removed the engine wire harness and fully disassembled the plugs (for B21 and B22). They were all wet inside and I had continuity from the ground wires and the insulation on many sets of wires and the plugs themselves. What I think happened originated with that bad CTS. I over tightened it and opened up the internal part of the sensor to the engine coolant. The coolant made its way through the sensor to the electrical plug. From there it was capillary action taking it down to the plugs for B21 and B22. The rubber seals around each wire on plug E2 had failed. The four involving the cam and crank sensors were especially wet. The fuel injector wires in the plug for B22 also had bad seals. Yesterday’s initial tests showed continuity with the ground from multiple locations including the crank position sensor, fuel injector yellow wire, and black and yellow wire from the CTS plug. Both B22 and B21 were disconnected. I had to remove the engine wire harness because cleaning of the CTS plug was very difficult. Thank you OB99W, Cougar, and Log1call for all your help. I really don’t know what I would have done with out it. Your friend, Rob

Both the cam and crank sensor wires were showing continuity with the ground through E2 (B21 disconnected). I also found cont. w/grnd. on the injector wires when B22, B21 were disconnected. Fully disassembled B21, and B22 and their respective plugs, cleaned, and now they are drying. I also sprayed all the other plugs/connectors on the engine including the CTS. I bought a large tube of dielectric grease that I will be applying to all connectors when they are dry. I used a solution on water and baking soda first, then water. Each plug then got a little splash of alcohol and now air drying. We'll see if that works.

The one wire change I did and have since undone was a suspected ground wire that actually went off to my defroster system. I had to replace the fuse. A second wire change was the addition of a ground wire from the engine to the frame. Greetings Log1call. I suspected the grounds and checked them. I’ve seen weird things happen when a ground comes lose before. My wires are clean, well protected and not subject to any abnormal heat that I can tell. I never opened up any of the shielding on the wires in question. I found the green goo in the plug and when I cleaned it my disconnected wires showed infinite resistance like they should have. I’m going to check everything again today. My ground wires from the ECM side all checked out for connectors B134 and B136. My wire diagrams did not have accurate data for B135. I have a manual trans. and diagrams say B135/25 is a ground. I physically don’t have a wire at that position. Two wires tested for ground on that connector (disconnected) #7-GRN/RED, and #28-WHT/BLU. I’m going to test, clean, and test today and see what results I get this time. I’ve been keeping notes so I’m hoping it is a dirty connector just like B21. I cleaned B22 but I did not disassemble E2 or the plug for B22.

Running on four cylinders again but still have P0340. It threw a P0341 first. I cleared the light and the moment I touched the gas the CEL came back on with our old friend 0340. I’m going to start over again with the wire checks and look for more conductivity where it should not be. Should I use anything special to clean the connectors?

Both 17 and 18 no longer have conductivity with the ground or each other. This is huge and so is the thunderstorm that is going to make me wait to find out.

Yes fluid reminded me of your post and I stuck my tester in it and got a reading. I doused the connector a few times with alcohol. Ok I tested all possible combinations of the four wires and only 17 and 18 have continuity. 8 to 9 M ohms. 10 minutes later the resistance was up to 14 M ohms. 10 minutes later 18 M. Now there is infinite resistance. I’m guessing that the resistance changed because the alcohol had to fully evaporate. I’m going to go back and check again.

Just dismantled B21. Mysterious fluid that is electrolytic. Probably antifreeze. Going to clean and then go through the tests you have mentioned.

The ECM is totally disconnected. B134, 135, and 136 are disconnected. Both B21 and B22 are disconnected as is every connector I could find that tied into the harness heading into the firewall. I’ve got resistance values (continuity) even though both ends of the wires are disconnected (listed previously. I can’t seem to find the short. I’ve removed all the covers and every wire looks good. Here is some data for you. I tested all of B21 with the ground and recorded my observations. Then I used the lowest resistance and checked all the others with that one. Here is what I found. B21 connectors w/ ground: All values are in Ohms. 5- 4.81 K 9- 163 K 10- 4.86 K 12- 0.2 M 13- 0.7 M 17- 1.6 M 18- 1.8 M Testing #12 w/ the above: 5- 0.4 M 9- 2.79 K 10- 0.5 M 13- 0.8 M 17- 1.6 M 18- 1.7 M I don’t have a diagram that shows me B21 in any detail. I can’t find an area where all these wires come into close to each other. Some of these wires run off to fuses and others test connectors which I have not found.

Since I have a Cam code I tested the two wires from connector B21 to the ECM connector B135. On B21, #18 and #20 are the cam wires and #18, red, did not have infinite resistance as expected. I tested #18 with all the others and found continuity with many other wires including the ground. It is a high enough resistance that my multimeter does not beep on the continuity setting. The continuity is different between some of the wires and varies from milliohms to K ohms. Continuity between B21/18 and: Ground, 5, 9,10,12,13,and 17. Continuity between B135/2 and: Ground, 1,5,6,7,11,12,18,19,and 28 During one test with B21 I was getting a fluctuation. The resistance was alternating from infinite to continuity. I wiggled wires and then observed a steady continuity reading. I suspect a short in the wire harness between B21 and the firewall. Two questions: (1) Do you agree with my test and diagnosis? (2)The braided sheath around B135 #2 is not showing continuity. Is it possible that the short is within but not with the sheath ? Just read your latest thread OB99W. I’ll disconnect B22 and test further. Rain delay right now.

- Where you refer to B22, did you mean B21? - I'm assuming you're disconnecting B21 from E2 (as well as disconnecting the ECU). - Are you saying that there is conduction (non-infinite resistance) between B135#18 and B135 #20, or that the conduction exists from those pins to ground? Yes I meant B21 the grey connector. I just guessed last night. Yes, disconnected B135, B21/E2, and E15. Yes, conduction B135 #2 with ground, B135 and B21 disconnected. No conduction from E15 to E2. No conduction of B135 #10 with B135 #2 and #9 or ground.

When looking at the engine, #1 is the front on on the left or the passenger's side. #3 is right behind #1. 2 and 4 are on the driver's side with #2 being the most forward of the two. There should be numbers on the ignition coil where the spark plug wires end.

Put everything back together today. New fuel injector in #4. Found some frayed wires on the Crank pos. sensor and repaired both. Now cylinders #1 and #4 are not firing. I checked the wires; yellow has voltage with key on and no shorts in either wire from the wire connectors at the back of the engine. 13.5 ohms across each injector from the ECM pins. No resistance when checking each injector wire from ECM pin to injector plug. Switched #2 with #4 injector and same cylinders were not firing. So before the engine was running on just #1 and #2 cylinders. Today just #2 and #3. I went back and checked the Cam sensor wires again and today I can’t get an infinite resistance value when the ECM pins are disconnected. Both cam sensor wires are registering a resistance even when every connector is unplugged (resistance fluctuates). That is telling me there is a short somewhere from the ECM pin connector to the b22 connector on the back of the engine. Wires from the sensor to the b22 connector had infinite resistance when disconnected. They have not shorted with the braided wire that sheathes them as the resistance from 2 and 9 with 10 showed infinite resistance. Lost my daylight so I’m stopping for the day. I’ll check back in the morning for any other insight. Anyone want to make a bet on which cylinders are going to work tomorrow?

Thanks OB99W and Cougar. I'm back to work today after some bad weather and the 4th holiday. I'm going to get the fuel injector back in and test fuel pressure. I don't think there is an issue with it but I need to know. I'm going to try a new Crank sensor before I replace the ECU. My friend also mentioned the crank and cam sensor dependency. What tool would be needed to check the wave form of these sensors? I’d like to search to see if I could pick up a used one or ask some of these mobile mechanics that advertise on Craig’s.

Checked the timing very early in this process. Also reset timing when I installed the new tensioner. There was also that fluke time where everything ran fine, no codes, power, normal exhaust. No work today. It is raining and I don't have a garage.

I broke the end cap of one of my injectors on Saturday. Ordered a new one from the dealer on Monday and won't have it until tomorrow (Wed). Going back to the temp gauge issue. I'm assuming that it is working properly since it did not jump up. After I thought about it for a while it should have been right where it was. I over tightened the original one. It is as "OEM" as it is going to get (Delphi) as this issue has become expensive. My friend at the part store let me "borrow" a new coil pack and new wires. Same condition with cylinders 3&4. I tested the fuel injector wires from the ECM pins. Proper resistance across each injector, continuity of each wire and no shorts. When I get the new injector and get it running I'll test the fuel pressure. I ran a compression test with the engine cold. My gauge it old and beat up so these may be higher than actual, 210, 205, 215, and 220. I have not had any misfire codes or temp sensor codes. P0340 has been very consistent. P0341 came up with P0340. I also had a 1505 and 0340 but the 1505 went away. The Crank position sensor was replaced in February and the Cam position sensor after the first appearance of code 0340. If it does not rain tomorrow I’ll have more info for you then. Thank you!

My friend at the part store told me to pull the plug wires while the engine was idling. Found no change when I removed wire #3 and #4. Going to swap the fuel injectors 1 with 3 and 2 with 4 and see what happens.

Legacy777, I've been working on this issue for a while. Please view the threads titled P0341, p0340. I've been banging my head against the wall on this one and I had a feeling early on that the ECM was bad. I've got a bad one in my Chevy and I've worked on other cars that had them go bad. None of them were Subarus of course so that is why I posted the question. Thanks

New CTS installed.......still have same problem......p0340. Temp. gauge on dash never moved. I don't know what to do.....

I was hoping that I would not have to dig in there to get that CTS. Oh well, I've done everything else it seems. Going to have to ride the bike into town today. The wife has my car. Oh yes, this is her car I'm working on.