rvac99

Yes the temp sensor is bad. Coolant has leaked through to the inside of the electrical connector. Just replaced this sensor in Feb. when I rebuilt the engine. I did check the Cam sensor circuit from the ECM. #2 and #9 was 1.95k Ohms exactly what it is at the sensor terminals. I agree with you, there are no more tests to run on the Cam sensor and ECM. I am very concerned about circuit that includes fuse #11 that should be hot but is acting like a ground. Could a voltage drop due to a short in the ignition cause these problems? I found 6 fuses that test for ground (0 resistance). I have the battery disconnected by the way. Fuses 5, 6, 11, 12, 17, and 18 all have 0 resistance with the ground. Fuse 5 gets power from the light system and powers and just a few light bulbs. I can’t see why it would test for ground. The other fuses all get power from the ignition and again I can’t understand why they would test for ground unless there are relays that are not labeled. Thank you so much for all your help so far. You have been very helpful and patient with me.

My wire diagrams are correct for pins 136 and 134. Pin 135, 6 wires do not correspond. You mentioned that #6 was a ground and a Black/Blue wire. It is Violet/Yellow and is not a ground. #7 a Green/red wire and #28 a White/Blue showed a ground connection when I tested each wire with the plug removed from the ECM. Other wires that were incorrect on my diagram: #4 No wire #5 VIO/YEL #16 NO WIRE #17 NO WIRE #25 NO WIRE #21 is VIO/WHT #26 is BLK/GRN #28 is WHT/BLU I have a manual transmission. The blue 12 pin ground connector checked out fine.

OB99W are you in Ithaca NY? I'm from Corning. Anyway I tested all the grounds from the ECM connectors last week. I have two sets of wire diagrams and one says I have a ground wire pos. #6 on connector B135. My wire is violet/green and goes to the defroster system according to the other set of diagrams. I can hear a relay clicking on the driver's side when I ground this wire. Is there another ground for the ECM pin connector B135? Also what does the "Shield & Sensor ground joint connector" look like. Says it is on the right side of dash. That's probably the connector that you just told me about but I had to ask. Looks like one wire grounds all those components (Shield Sensor pos. #15 WHT/GRN).

The connectors you mentioned were my first thought. I've checked them and checked them again. I guess I'll do it again after I verify the sensor's output. I just tried it (the car) again after having the battery disconnected for 4 hours. Still running bad with a constant p0340. No p0341 anymore. I watched the temp. needle. It would go from normal range down to 0 like I had shut the key off. It jumped around like that for a few moments and then it settled on a temp. The engine was cold and the guage was indicating normal operating temp. I should get the code when I plug my reader into the connector right? My code reader could not read the code with the engine off and just the ignition on. I turned the key on first then connected the reader. Just dashed lines on the screen. Got the 0340 code only while running. I'll try the multimeter and check the connectors again tomorrow. I'll keep you updated.

The temp. needle was bouncing up and down and then registered a higher than normal reading. This does not happen everytime I start the engine. Fluctuations did not change when I wiggled wires going into the ECM. I've cleared the ECM with my scan tool. There have been times when I cleared the codes (CEL off) and it stayed off while the engine was idling. At that time it was a normal idle speed and sound. The instant I touched the pedal the CEL came back on. Other times I have seen the CEL go off and immediatly come back on. One morning I started it and cleared the codes and it ran perfectly. I shut it off and put everything back together and it went right back to throwing the 0340 code again. I don't have a scope and heard they are expensive. I was going to attempt attaching an older style multimeter and see if the needle fluctuated evenly. Don't think I'll be able to see that much though as there are seven tangs on the cam sprocket. They will probably go quickly. My part store gave me the testing procedures for testing the wires for shorts and resistance values based on my model and code. Other than that tensioner I had narrowed it down to the cam sprocket or the ECM. I've been at this for two weeks now. Just can't seem to win with this car.

Has anyone had to replace or reprogram the ECM? I've got codes for circuits that test fine, temp gauge fluctuates, sometimes it will idle smooth other times it will run on two cylinders. Plugs indicate rich condition. 2000 OBW EJ25 engine.

New tensioner installed and still have the same problem. Just throwing the P0340 code this time. Sounds like it is running on two cylinders and the exhaust smells.

I did notice some oil leaking out of the top of the tensioner. I will replace it and let you know. Thank you and Cougar for your effort.

I did that. The wires are also sheathed and I checked those as well. My local part store gave me a print out of testing procedures for the two codes. The resistance values did not indicate a bad connection or open circuit.

I have a 2000 Legacy Outback that runs, registers the two codes for the cam sensor. The engine has no power and sounds like it is running on two cylinders. Plugs show a very rich fuel mixture and exhaust smoke and odor verifies rich condition. Temp gauge on dash fluctuates at times and from time to time the engine has run fine. Wire one (black) 19K Ohms, wire two (white) 2.6 Ohms. I have replaced the cam sensor and checked the wires from every connector and at the ECM. Wiggled all wires while engine running and added extra ground to engine and body. All wires and connectors are good, timing is right on, and I’m down to two final options: ECM or Cam sprocket. I can check the cam sprocket if I can get an old analogue multimeter from what I have gathered. I don’t believe there is anything wrong with is because everything is clean and set properly. The old cam sensor has the same resistance as the new one (2K Ohms) and the timing marks line up. Can I take the ECM to be reprogrammed or does the whole car have to be towed to the dealer? Has anyone had to replace the cam sprocket?