angeltali

water in overflow has been completly cold when i checked b4, no bubbles will check again and burp thoroughly. Something has been causing my belt to squeak when i start it and off and on while at idle. thanks for all the replies

I have a 94 legacy that recently started to overheat. I changed the thermostat (had the original t stat...go subie) which seemed to help. Right now it is only overheating sometimes. I can let it idle and nada but once i start driving it overheats around 10 20 minutes, sometimes less. The kicker is i lose heat when it starts, ill keep my fan on and once my air goes cold the needle quickly goes to h. Any ideas what kills the heat and causes overheat at once?

Thanks for the info. I think I'll do the hoses and what not and run more tests if I notice something actually seeming off. Funny that isn't what its called I could swear that's what the guy at the shop said.

I took my xt to replace what I believe is the PITA intercooler hose leaking. The soob shop doesn't want to touch the hose without running a diagnosis on what seems to be a bad gasket in-between the turbo and exhaust. They were telling me I most likely have a bad head gasket and probably a cracked head. I have had no issues with over heating poor performance or constantly having to refill coolant. Ofcourse when this hose blew a leak two days ago it got hot but was shut off quickly. Not sure what is what on this car posting pics of where the leaks are Looking for where I can get the right hose and and anything else I should do since the turbo will be out. Don't want to shell out 150 for diagnosis on something that didn't seem to be an issue. Is this common?

Any suggestion on where to find a used or rebuilt tranny.

ATF wasn't changed when motor replaced. I got a good 6 quarts out with the drain. Definitely more than i expected. Fluid was grey on dipstick prob why looked different when drained. Took a closer look and it is a dark brown. Looked black on towels. Pretty sure both fans are turning on but will double check that. What would I be looking for in diff fluid if the ATF is mixing with it? Will change again but can't really drive much to get fluid moving through really don't want to take it over 25. Is it normal to have better response driving in 2 than d?

As far as the atf: was low when first noticed a change added fluid but didn't improve. CHanged yesterday actually black. But not grainy didn't find any pieces of metal. Never got any other light or codes. Just solid check engine with p0740. Overheated like I mentioned only sometimes at a light. Plus once I'd push gas and get moving over 5mph it would immediately drop back to normal wtf? As far as last comment.... That car didn't get pushed like u think simply noted rpms where no response was occurring as i push gas needle would jump didnt do again. Wouldn't drive over 3200 rpm which is where it would sit going 65. and don't think I'm driving a f'd up car at 65 kept rpms under 3000 where everything worked ok and didn't just keep driving every day. Now the day it was driven someone else Drove the car 2-3 of miles. said it seemed fine less than 3 later it was done.

Okay so I posted this in another forum and not very helpful. eas originally concerned I had a bad torque converter now scared I blew the tranny. 97 subaru outback 2.5 AT trans 187k replaced engine at 180k due to a bad hg Started with a serious loss of power at speeds over 40mph and uphill as well. engine rpm will increase as i give gas but acceleration is very sluggish or even a drop in speed if trying to maintain 60mph with an incline. i can push on gas and my rpm go really high almost sounds likeits in neutral and i sloooowly accelerate even at 4500 rpm. i occasoinally overheat as well after i pull off freeway. rough idle while stopped at light. was pulling misfire on 3 and 4 replaced plugs and wires now pulling. p0740 failed tcc solenoid. i was leaning towards torque converter itself after reviewing a description of torque converter function from toyota that i found on this site. turns out the lock up solenoid is on the vavle body inside tranny (told this by dealer) they seem to be leaning towardstranny. Lost other gears on freeway first I could get to 40 in d now only 25 in d and 30 in 2 with rpms around 3500. Thinking my only option is to replace tranny don't know if it will even be worth it because I was going to sell after i replaced motor. Still going to sell cuz I need the $. Atf smells burnt and is gray Would love to hear something else but dont want to waste time and money avoiding the inevitable.