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avatar382

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Posts posted by avatar382

  1. So my rear lights won't work.

     

    They light up when I brake, but that's about it. Now, for a long time, I have a fuse blow (the one for the rear lights) when I turn on my headlights. I never had a chance to really sit down and figure it out, so I drove around with parking lights, so that I have some lighting in the rear at night.

     

    But, I noticed last night that my parking lights don't work either. The parking light fuse is intact and no fusable links are blown. By parking lights don't work, I might no parking lights anywhere on the car - like if the switch doesn't work. I haven't made any changes or work on the car since I last saw them working... which was the last time I drove it! (Monday last week, I ride a bike to work so it sat for 3 days).

     

    Along with my rear lights, the interior lights that light up the pod don't work either. God, this sucks. I think it's my stereo that's messing everything up, but I remove it and still blow fuses.

     

    So, anyone know where I might look? Or where might be a good place to take the car to get it checked out? Despite having once been a computer engineer major I really suck at this electrical stuff. Failed circuits twice :(

     

    Car is an 87' XT same in sig.

  2. Ok, one thing I've been noticing.

     

    Cruising at say 3500 rpm in 3rd, and then punching the throttle - My car will usually ping a little. If I slowly build boost in second and keep it through the gears (i.e., slowly press down at and then gradually go WOT) I never hear ping.

     

    Seems like the fuel system has a hard time keeping up when boost goes from 0 to max in a short amount of time. Anyone have any luck in getting more fuel in the engine when the turbo is spooling?

     

    Also: anyone ever notice a hesitation/stumble at part throttle, low boost (1-5 psi?) Is that likely to be fuel related as well?

  3. where exataly did you have it installed?

     

    My idea is to take an xt header and use the O2 port on the drivers side to mount the thermocouple. Not sure what the threads are I guess I will have to see if they are compatible.

     

    I think you just established the normal EGT.

     

    I have it about an inch from the exhaust port, passenger side (usually the side that blows!)

     

    I don't know about "normal", though, since I have a decent list of mods on this engine including a different turbo at higher pressure... lol

  4. Today I finally got my EGT gauge installed. Ended up doing it myself!

     

    It's been pending for over a month. I took my car to a local WRX/Subaru performance shop to install a GReddy gauge, the tech drilled and tapped the header and installed it, but it didn't seem to work, at all.

     

    So, he took it out, stumped, and told me he would order another gauge and call me when it came in.

     

    Fast forward three weeks. No call. Gauge apparently is on backorder. So, I call the shop and tell them I'm buying my own and will bring it to install. I buy a gauge on eBay and set up a appointment to get the thing installed today.

     

    Yesterday I call and the shop to confirm and they cancel my appointment, claiming that the tech has to go to the doctor. I get rather frustrated, since I set the appointment up a week and a half ago. So, I decide to install it myself.

     

    Installing it was easy, since all the work of drilling and tapping the header had been done. When I finished, I started the car but the gauge didn't move.

     

    It wasn't until I drove it around that I realized that at idle, my EGT's are REALLY low, under 300 C (572 F). Must be because it runs so rich at idle. I felt bad - when the tech installed it originally, the gauge was probably working perfectly, but since he just revved the engine without load, the EGT's never went above the minimum mark on the gauge, so the gauge looked dead.

     

    At WOT, max boost in 4th gear the reading was about 790 C (1450 F). Not too bad. I did turn down the boost at the Dragon in June to 9 psi to play it safe, and it seems that 9psi is indeed safe with my setup.

     

    When I get home, I'm going to bump it up to 11 psi again and see what the EGT readings are, so I can get a baseline to play with once I get my VW 5th injector plumbed in, and then the fireworks will REALLY start :brow:

     

    Anyway, does anyone know what the nominal EGT readings should be for a stock EA82T?

  5. BoostedBalls:

     

    How did you tune your extra injector without a wideband 02 sensor (figure out where it leans out) and wideband A/F gauge?

     

    A narrowband A/F is only good for reading between 13.5 and 15.5.... 13.5 is still way too lean!

     

    I'm serisouly considering dropping 400 bucks on a freaking wideband 02 sensor.... am I crazy for doing this on a 17 year old car?!

     

    Aaaah this speed stuff is getting expensive....

  6. Ok guys,

     

    I got 2 cold start injectors, one from an old Saab, another from a Volkswagen. Thanks goes to BoostedBalls for the inspiration!

     

    The idea is to drill a hole in my piping from IC to throttlebody, about 6 inches to the throttle body, and plumb the injector in there.

     

    Then, I get a pressure switch and have it activate the injector at a certain PSI. I am thinking probably 7, 8 PSI. Hopefully, this will allow me to get all the way to maybe 12, 13 psi without worrying about melting a piston. Turned it down to 9 psi at the Dragon because I was worried about running lean, and haven't touched it.

     

    The injector will get fuel from a tee that I will install at the fuel filter.

     

    I have two injectors, but I'm only installing one, for now. Eventually, I might even add the 6th injector to come on at ultra high boost! 15 psi, here I come!

     

    Take that, Subaru with very small stock injectors!

     

    I will post pics! Wish me luck! I'm going to try this tomorrow. If I blow up my car, I will post pics too!

  7. I got a Hobbs-style pressure switch off of ebay. You can set it to a specific pressure (between 4-15psi on the one i got) to activate the electric circuit and then kick the injector on.

     

    86_1_b.JPG

    I think you can get the gist of how it works by looking at the pic... Once the stuff gets delivered Ill try to get this rigged up and put details.

     

    *edit* it was only $15 with shipping

     

    That thing looks awesome. Time to get one, myself! So you plumb it into where the MBC is?

  8. BoostedBalls, I just read your post more closely. I see "Use your fuel cut-off pressure switch to make it do just the opposite of what subaru intended. Make it drive the injector for more fuel at high boost."

     

    How exactly do you do that? Pardon my ignorace...

     

    Also, what years Jetta should I look for when injector shopping? Are those cars SPFI?

     

    EDIT: After reading MattyG's post - so this fuel cut-off pressure switch is not a part that's already on my car? Or - I need a second do to this "reverse duty"?

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