avatar382
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Posts posted by avatar382
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I just ordered mine!!!!!! Keith told me it would ship today!
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Will,
Where did you get that wing? Is it stock? I bet it would look sweet on an XT
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I got the intercooler!
Now just a matter of getting the tubing. What is the difference between mandrel bent tubing and home depot aluminum tubing?
Is that stuff really expensive?
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I am almost certainly going FMIC. Hopefully, in about an hour (eBay bid) I will own one of these
:brow:If that hose from the gold outlet from the t-bird IC does go back to the IAC, would it be possible just to plumb it in anywhere along the tubing when I get my new intercooler?
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I am thinking very strongly of going FMIC, as has been suggested.
I had my mind set on a WRX IC because you can by one for $70-$100, but thinking about a FMIC, looking over my engine bay it seems like it wouldn't be THAT difficult to accomplish....
Looking at car domain, there is a member here that was able to mount an FMIC on his XT Turbo.
Here is a pic if you are lazy
You can see the hose from the turbo snakes toward the drivers' side, which is he same side the outlet hose from the IC comes from. I believe the reason he did that is because there is space to run a 2.5" hose through on the drivers side, but it appears harder to put a hose through the passenger side.
Here is a pic of what the area at my passenger side looks like, by the radiator:
Not much space, as you can see. Still, maybe I can hack some metal and make space somehow.
More questions:
It has been suggested that the gold hose inlet on the Ford IC goes to the crankcase. I assume all intercoolers have such an inlet? What is it for? What happens I just... don't use it?
Seems to me that a bypass valve would probably be a no no, as I would have to route another line back to the intake. That means I would have to shop for a blow-off valve in addition to an intercooler - anyone know of a cheap one? I don't care how it sounds, really....
What effect does the extra length in all these lines have on turbo lag? I'm guessing it would take time for the pressure to "travel" from the turbo all the way around the engine bay and back to the front? Would it be noticable?
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My car currently has a Ford Thunderbird IC. I think it's getting heatsoaked quickly for the following reasons:
1.) It's right on top of the turbo
2.) The hood "vents" on the XT Turbo hood barely covers 40% of the IC
3.) It's painted flat black
4.) It's smaller than a WRX IC (I think)
I want to swap it for a WRX IC, which I can (hopefully) position more towards the center of the engine bay, and replace the stock hood scoop with one of those WRX imitation scoops on eBay and hopefully draw in more air.
What I need to know is: What parts do I need to buy? Obviously, I need the IC, a BOV/BPV, and the hose to the IC. I'm wondering if the stock Y-pipe the WRX uses will fit in this case...
PICS:
Ford IC as it is installed now
Another view of the IC and the Volvo BPV currently installed
crappy hood scoop coverage
IC is out. anybody, the little gold colored hose input - what is that for?
Turbocharger I'm probably going to have to worry about hitting the black cylinder shaped thing in the upper left right with the WRX IC?
Turbocharger area again. Look at the black thing in the upper right. I'm hoping it can be moved...
Makeshift heat shield. I'm guessing there are aftermarket parts that insulate the turbo more effectively?
Thanks!
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Perhaps that is the problem, or maybe my intercooler is getting heatsoaked... my stock XT hood "vents" only cover about 30% of it, and it sits right on top of the turbo... (it's a ford t-bird IC)
BTW I won't dare run on anything less than 93, I've got a VF11 @ 11 psi boost
Stock should be NGK BPR6ES-11 with BPR5ES-11 and BPS7ES-11 as alternats (source: '89 FSM). If I remember right, bigger number is colder with NGK so you might try the 7s or maybe 8s.But I doubt plugs are your problem, first guess would be to much timing for the quality of the fuel. Try a grade higher fuel or a few deg less timming, my RX pings lightly on 87 (I can only hear it at lower speed with the window down), but seems to do well on mid grade (89), timing is stock 20 Deg.
Gary
EDIT: Or add an intercooler
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What plugs you all run in your boosted EA82's?
My car will ping sometimes in third... it won't in first, second, forth or fifth, but THIRD... at WOT... I'm thinking maybe the plugs in my car are too hot in range?
A friend recommended NGK BKR7E plugs, but his car is an SR20DET, not an EA82, so you know, I want to be sure...
Oh and I live in Miami. Constantly hot and humid, coldest it ever gets year round is like 40, if that makes a difference on plugs.
I drive my car mostly only on weekends since I ride my bike to work, and I don't idle in traffic that much. I hear that cold plugs can foul if you spend a long time idling...
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Hi Marck,
You have a very similar setup to mine, VF11 - I have a Ford IC instead of a WRX IC (I want to get it replaced, just so I have more IC over my hood scoop) I'm also at 11 psi, and I haven't had any slipping issues with my XT6 clutch, as subyluvr2212 said.
WJM, what do you mean by "tuning"? What was invovled in your fuel mods? How much better is your exhaust than say - a stock WRX down/mid pipe with 3" straight pipe all the way back? How much of an improvement was the bigger TB?
I want more power!!!!!
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Hi, I just joined today, and I just bought my first subaru yesterday from a buddy of mine. It's a 87 subaru xt gl :cool: . its the base model i guess you would say, and i was wondering if i could put the digital cluster from a turbo model into this one. I know the turbo part will not work, but i do not care. I just want the kewl looking 80's digital dash
Thanks.I have the opposite problem, I have a turbo and what the regular dash
From what I hear, the wiring is a nightmare because the connectors are totally different.
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you need to correct the wiring for the coil, check for grounds, and shorts
That's just the thing though - I think my coil is wired correctly, i mean, the damn thing works
Do you all have an extra ground cable coming from your coil going into the chassis? When I took the coil out my car wouldn't start without that ground....
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I noticed today that my rear lights weren't coming on when I turned my headlights on. I checked the fuse, and it was blown. So, I swap it for a spare. The second fuse blows instantly. Just for kicks I throw an 20A fuse in (the standard for the rear lights is 15A) and the lights stay on (dimmer than usual, though) for a short while, and then that fuse blows as well.
The rear lights do work when you hit the brakes, so I know the bulbs are good. I'm guessing I have a short somewhere.... recently, I removed the ignition coil and then forgot how I wired it up, so I had to play with it for a while before I could get the car to start. I wonder if that has something to do with it... Also, I have some wierd stuff going on with some of the idiot lights on my dash - the parking brake light will stay on (but very dim) as will the light that signals the operation of the headlight motors.
Anyway, I have a ground wire coming from my ignition coil to the chassis. When I removed the damn thing, it wouldn't start until I connected that ground. However, on my old XT6 I don't remember doing anything like that... I should mention that my ignition coil is not a stock XT coil, Although it looks just like a stock XT coil. I think it's from a chevy 350 or something - The previous owner put it in because apparently the stock coil doesn't create enough of a spark...
Anyway - I definately have a short somewhere, right? Besides the coil, where should I look?
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I have 3" straight pipe, cats (WRX down, midpipe) and it's loud, but not unbearablely so. Nice rumble at idle, nice growl at speed. Maybe as loud as a fart-can exhaust but much deeper without the annoying pitch...
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How does a TD04 compare to a VF11?
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My car has an aftermarket oil pressure gauge in the dash, but it no worky. Apparently the previous owner could not find a fitting for it. (whatever that means, I'm dumb)
So, I have this clear plastic tube thing from the gauge in my engine bay. I know where the sending unit is, but is it simply a matter of fitting this plastic tube onto the sending unit? Or does it replace the sending unit? Or do I need a new sending unit? Also, what can I do if the clear plastic tube thing doesn't reach to the oil pump area? Can I extend it with a similair piece?
Also the wire extending from the sending unit now I assume is for the idiot light on the dash. Is there a way to have both the oil pressure gauge and the idiot light working?
Thanks!
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Thanks again WJM!
I installed the NAPA 1361 and it doesn't leak. Well, actually, it leaks just a teeensy bit, so I might get an O-ring or something....
Car now seems to run about 180-185 deg. as opposed to 200-205... I wonder if that's too cold? It was a cool night out, but I was getting on it.... Anyway I guess my turbo will be loving the combination of mobil 1, cooled oil
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Well, I found the problem.
Turns out the filter I was using, a Purolator PureOne 24457, has a gasket that is too small in diameter to work with this oil cooler sandwich adapter.
Here is a picture to illustrate:
The red outline is where the gasket of my oil filter lands.
You can see, the squared area of the cavity is protruding past the gasket covering of the oil filter, causing a rather nasty leak. When I start my car, oil SPURTS out like crazy!
I'm wondering if there is another filter I can buy that has a slightly larger diameter gasket, or if they are all the same. Is there a physically larger filter that will fit (same threads) a EA82?
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I installed an oil cooler on my XT Turbo, I figured it would be a good insurance policy to keep my engine & turbo happy...
After installing it, I went for a little drive and everything seemed fine, but when I got home, I noticed that there was a puddle of oil on the floor
Upon further inspection, it was obvious that it is leaking somewhere, there was oil spatter on the underbody of my car. I check the oil level, and it was very very low
I didn't hear any lifter tapping or knock or grinding, so I hope that the oil pressure didn't get low enough to cause any damage... The fittings, hoses, and cooler itself are all squeaky clean, so I don't see how it is leaking from there. I used thread sealant on the fittings... It is oily between the adapter and the oil pump, but I was careful to install and lubricate the o-ring and it's on tight... maybe too tight? The oil filter is hand tight on the adapter as well. Anyone have any experience with a problem like this?
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Hi all,
where do you think is a good place to put an oil pressure gauge sending unit, if you have a sandwich adapter for an oil cooler on a EA82T? Should I find like a T-shaped fitting, that looks something like this:
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By the way, how would an auto tranny fluid cooler work as an oil cooler? Would that be ok?
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Well, I just bought one for myself! w00t my engine thanks you, WJM and the fine people at Folgers Subaru
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6000 mi (recently rebuilt hehe) , ~23-24 mpg.
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I grabbed one from Advanced Auto for about $120 - Double Row core from a turbo. Now the car rarely ever goes above 1/8th on the gauge...
Well worth it.
You wouldn't happen to recall the part number, would you? Was it a specific brand, on the shelves? Or did you have to have them order it for you from their little computers?
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Cool another genmayer, just saw your identical post over there.
Damn I'm busted :-p
What can I say I love attention.. that's why I bought this car in the first place... hehehe
Techworks Header Uppipe Downpipe where is yours *Pics*
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
My header isn't scheduled to be in until the 10th
Who has theirs in already? Is it all that and a bag of chips?