bshoke

Between my race cars, and the Jeep Wagoneer I got last year my Subaru has patiently sat waiting for me to get back to work on it and now seems like as good a time as any. the car is an 1988 gl-10 wagon all wheel drive, turbo, Multi port fuel injection with a 5 speed manual transmission, what is the procedure for setting the ignition timing, and what should the timing be for this engine combo? Thanks Bryan

thanks for the info, unfortunately the junk yards down here don't have much for Subarus, or older cars for that matter. the parts guy at the dealership was stunned when he saw the price for a new one $150 which just so happens to be the exact price i paid for the car. I found some online for about $45, and the parts guy suggested a couple of ways to fix the one I have, so it is not all bad.

i have some picks of it too http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=30911768&l=47aa6aab04&id=202602235 http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=30911774&l=10eb70ffa7&id=202602235 I assume this is something rather important to a system of the car because it has wires and is on the vacuum system

the vacuum cube thing that the wires came off has a number afsu128 if that helps any

Thanks, found the sensors. I have another question there is a cube looking thing with 2 wires and what look like 2 vacuum lines on it what is it? what does it do? and where can i get a new one? i found 2 of them on the engine but one of them had a wire that was broke on it, and once i got it out the second wire fell off i tried to solder the wires back on but that is not going to work. the other is missing a vacuum line so i am going to try to figure out where it should hook into the system. I also found a cracked vacuum line.

the car is a 1988 gl-10 all wheel drive 5 speed mpfi turbo ea82, I am still having trouble with the idle till the car has warmed up. I have to hold the gas to the floor to get it to keep running till it warms up once it is warm it will idle nicely at about 1000rpm. It had given me a maf code but after cleaning that out it has never come back. The O2 sensor was out, I changed that now my add on air fuel gauge reads lean to normal till it warms up then it goes rich once warm. Is the temperature sensor on the radiator or the block? Recently it gave me the code for the knock sensor intermittently does this mean the engine is knocking or that I need to check the wiring? If I am standing at the front of the car looking at the engine where would the knock sensor be? I know about the Auxiliary Air Valve, I actually found a second water neck in the car with one on it as well how do i check one of these and what do i do to fix it if it is sticking? just soak it in something like wd40 or spray it down with carb cleaner? And finally will this car have an Idle Air Control Valve? i have heard and read conflicting things on this matter on multi port cars. If I have one where will it be, and what would I need to do as far as this goes? I really want to drive this thing and make a trip or 2 to the beach soon. Thanks for any input

I am sorry to hear that, my 88 gl-10 came from WA, from there it went to FL and finally down to deep south Texas where found it, in all that time it got 3 rust spots one on the rear hatch that has large dent, one small spot on the door, and one on the hood, all rocker panels and the under side is rust free, it amazed me. I bought it for $150 cash, it also had a set of snow chains in it not that I will ever use those. The map of rust prone locations showing the gulf coast of Texas is a little off, most people don't care for their cars enough in this region, if you take care of it it will not rust out here I had a 1979 Chevette that did not rust till it was parked in a back pasture for 5 years, and even then it was fixable but I just turned that car into a dirt track car instead. I know a lot of the jeep guys have started putting Line-X on the undersides and rocker panels, would that work on Subarus or is it too much work?

I finally had some time to play with the ol' wagon, i pulled the connectors on the computer to check the contacts, i reconnected it and then started it up it ran good, except there was a little smoke out the exhaust, it still smelled like bad gas, i think that is the cause of the smoke. I shut it off for a bit and then started it up, it was running ok then it started with the hesitation, and a couple of misfires, i checked the codes it read code 42 Idle switch, and 44 waste gate control. Could the waste gate control code be because of the misfires? Where is the idle switch is that on the throttle body, or part of the throttle position sensor, I have been looking but I am having a hard time finding something that compares to what the books I have say I am looking for. I think I am going to drain the fuel again. Thanks for any help or advice you may have -Bryan

my Chiltons says it should be 10+ volts I don't always trust it being that it covers so many years and configurations. i am thinking of replacing all the MAF wires but I don't know where they all run. do you know where the power side for the maf starts? It could be some corrosion causing all this trouble.

I know, that most of the summit stuff is alright, I bought a trans cooler for my dirt track Chevette it was actually a Perma-cool, in a summit package the instructions may have even had the perma cool logo. I had a Flowtech Red Hots glasspack it was on my old Buick I liked it, it was only $25. I was thinking of going with one on my gl10 once i get it running.

I cleaned the MAF, it was dirty, but it did not help, the MAF code did post when i had it running longer, i was checking the wiring on it the #2 wire (what according to my diagrams and books is the voltage supply) only showed 1 volt, it should have read what my battery had about 11.7V. can I just run a wire from power to the supply wire to see if that improves the engine performance?

sorry to butt in but can you send me the link to the service manuals, I am having my own fun with an 88 GL10. Thanks -Bryan

Also where can i get a replacement, or how can i fix the problem.

This should help with the codes. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/...ad.php?t=49918

I had the battery out of the car so I ran it for a bit and it read code - 44 Wastegate Duty Solenoid. It only posted 1 code,. Could this be the only problem it, had given the symptoms it has?