Fairtax4me

Any 95-99 Legacy door will fit. Trim level (L, Gt, Outback, etc) does not matter.

Then it may be a ground problem. The socket may need to be cleaned or the ground wire for the bulbs may be loose or corroded.

A spark plug non-fouler. You can buy them at most auto parts stores for about $3-$5. I think the sensors use 14mm thread.

More than likely related. Knock sensor issues are known to cause misfiring in these cars. If a code is present for the knock sensor I would inspect that first before chasing other problems.

I think the rails you want to look for will have the straight injectors caps like this: http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTyzYpOdoh8qc0D7mNIqgi6m6VK0BkbuG82LKJSXdvcODypSQcTQq7sqLxPVQ rather than being angled like those in the other pic.

I haven't had a chance to look into this yet, but I'm definitely leaning towards it being a lash clearance issue. Just have to find some time to pop the valve covers off, probably later this weekend I'll have an update. Thanks for the replys everyone.

The nut on the passenger side at the bottom of the bellhousing can be removed easily from above. You can fit a standard 3/8" drive 14mm socket on a ratchet down there between the bellhousing and axle cup. The other side can be done form above as well but is a bit more difficult with the steering linkage in the way. As Dave said a swivel adapter makes it a breeze. I have one like this and it is absolutely worth every penny of the ~ $9 I spent on it. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Duralast-3-8-in-drive-2-7-8-in-black-oxide-finish-chrome-moly-steel-impact-universal-joint-socket/_/N-263d?counter=2&itemIdentifier=914031_0_0_ Flex plate bolts, get a 12mm 0 degree offset box end wrench. Get one of the extra long ones if you can for better leverage. Also very handy for the AC belt tensioner.

Have HLAs with shims supplied by Delta installed under the adjuster. I'll recheck the rocker assembly bolts. I'll also check lash clearance while I have the covers off. Cams are original to the heads.

95 dual port heads on a 96 block. Engine was out for head gaskets, but found cylinder wall damage, so the block was swapped with the good one from my other car. Block has approx 192k miles and has never made noise. Rocker assemblies were removed from the heads, cams installed, one of the spring washers on the drivers side rocker shaft was replaced (it was broken and laying in the oil pan). I don't think it's piston slap. It's not a deep knock, it's definitely in the heads. It seems to be more from under the car which leads me to think it may be an exhaust leak from the manifolds. But I can't feel anything around the manifolds, and see no soot trails that would indicate exhaust leaking.

The ECU has adjusted idle speed and fuel mixture to account for more air entering the engine through that nipple. Plug it off and disconnect the battery for a few minutes to clear the ECU then reconnect and let it re-learn the fuel settings. It will probably run a little strange for a few minutes while it figures out the best mixture and adjusts idle speed.

Ok, then just plug it and it should be fine. You want what's on the engine to match the original routing as closely as possible. If there was only one hose there before, and that hose is hooked up, then it's just an extra port that can be plugged off no harm done.

The injectors do not stick into the combustion chamber, so no. The buildup is from oil vapor being fed into the intake through the PCV system, and exhaust through the EGR system if the engine has it. The inside of the intake manifold looks about the same. I'd remove the entire manifold and clean it out with a bottle brush.

I know the EJ22 isn't known for being quiet, but this engine used to just purr at idle. The loudest noise was the fuel injectors ticking and the alternator whining. For the past week? or so since I got this thing running I have had a lot of ticking from the engine, and I can't decide if it's an exhaust leak or the valvetrain. I's not as loud as a collapsed HLA, but it's a similar type of tick. It's from both sides. It seems more prominent when the engine is cold, but it's kinda hard to tell since these are typically loud when cold anyway. I have a set of delta cams installed and wonder if they make more noise than the stock cams because of the more aggressive grind? If not then I need to start looking into the cause and get it to quiet down again.

It goes to one of three things. The Map sensor on the passenger strut tower. The fuel pressure regulator. Or the Evap purge control solenoid under the intake runners on that same side of the engine. If your hood is the original hood for the car it should have a diagram of all the vacuum lines on the engine.

It's not worth bothering to bleed HLAs they will bleed themselves. Sounds like you got your misfire straightened out. Time to enjoy a good drive!

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/ Read up.

The best after market filter IMO is Wix. I have to order those and pay a higher price plus shipping to get them though. So I run Purolator almost exclusively on my soobs. As far as I know Subaru filters don't have anti-drainback valves at all. Subaru trusts the OEM filter for their vehicles because it meets their specifications for quality and filtration. If it's good enough for them it should be good enough for you. Plenty of Soobs out there running for 200k miles and beyond with Subaru oil filters on them.

Give everything a good looking over first. Worn tie rod ends/ball joints can be identified by using large pliers to compress the joint, or a prybar to pull the joint apart while watching for movement. Movement in the joint indicates play/looseness which would normally warrant replacement. Bushings tend to dry out and crack and can fall apart. Use a prybar to push the control arms around. Jam it between the control arm and frame to get leverage. The rear bushings on the front control arm are filled with silicone fluid. They crack and the fluid will leak out then the bushing collapses and will cause it to clunk around. It looks like heavy grey grease. Steering rack bushings are easy to tell if they are bad. Are they covered in grease and oil? Probably are and have been for quite some time. They're not too difficult to replace, takes maybe 30 minutes by just removing the clamps on the rack. Polyurethane is a preferred choice for those since it is less susceptible to damage from oil contamination. You can get a set of bushings made by Whiteline on Ebay for around $35 shipped usually.

Water is a byproduct of normal combustion. It can be a little unnerving seeing water coming out of the tail pipe after HG replacement. Believe me I know, I just had my own adventure with head gaskets. HLA noise is nothing to worry about. They will eventually pump up and go quiet. CEL on is a good sign, it at least gives you something to go by. You'll want to try and get that scanned to see what the code is. If the light is blinking it is probably due to a misfire. In the meantime check wiring connectors, spark plug wires, air hoses (intake, PCV, IAC hoses). Re-check cam timing. Make sure all three sprockets are still aligned properly. Just went through this. Had a cam jump time after a few minutes of running and it took me three days to figure out because I was so sure the timing was correct when I put the engine in the car. It caused it to misfire, but only when warm and under load. The rest of the time it seemed to run perfectly fine. Pull the plugs and check their condition, they can give clues about what is going on.

The lower the bypass valve strength the less the oil actually gets filtered. Doubtful you'll find 0-30 in a local store. I have seen 0-40 in plenty of parts stores, and it will work just as well if not better than 0-30 depending on what kind of mileage is on your engine and what climate you live in.

Sweet! That's exactly it! Thanks for the link! I called up Toyota and they, surprisingly, had one in stock. So I went and looked and it's the right part just in black plastic rather than yellow. Their national warehouse had a dozen in stock so I ordered 5 more. The metal hardware I think I can clean up with a wire brush so this should work out!

I guess I get to make some. This should be fun. Have to dig into the old RC car parts bin and see if I can come up with some turnbuckles that will work. I'll put up some pics of what I come up with.

Check the adjustment of your throttle cable before digging into other things. The TPS is on the side of the throttle body opposite the throttle levers. It's either brown or black, don't worry about that unless you get a code for it. The IAC is the dohickie stuck to the passenger side of the intake manifold. They get stuck sometimes, but can be cleaned pretty easily. The gasket is like $5 from the dealer. Remove the valve and spray it out with air intake cleaner. Wiggle the paddle inside it to free it up and spray some more. Re-install with new gasket. Heater circuit is a code for one of the O2 sensors. Just check the wiring to those to make sure they are plugged in tight. If it comes back again you might need a new O2 sensor.

Bent valves are almost a guarantee. Replace any seized timing components (water pump), hang a new belt, and do a compression test to determine which cylinders have low or no compression. This will tell you if you need to pull off both heads or just one, or if you got lucky and have no valve damage. On the single cam 2.2 you can remove the heads with the engine in the car but it is tricky. On the dual cam 2.5 I have heard it is doable by lifting the engine. If you decide to repair the engine, replace the water pump since it is likely seized (hence the overheating and broken belt) as well as all other timing components including the tensioner if it is the one piece swing arm style. Valves are something like $15 a peice, If any are bent you will need at least two. Head gaskets (Many here recommend Subaru ONLY for the 2.5) are something like $50 each.Intake gaskets are $10 or $15, exhaust manifold gaskets are about the same. Timing components, typically around $200 for the full kit on Ebay. A bit more if you get the kit with all the oil seals. $30-50 per head for milling the head surface flat (highly recommended for the 2.5). Then figure another 25-50 for assorted things like antifreeze, fresh engine oil and filter, broken vacuum hoses, etc. BTW search around here for Timing belt threads, there are a few that have very good info and pics for installing the belt and which marks to use for proper cam and crankshaft alignment.

It's common for the knuckle to deform when being pressed and stress the new wheel bearing. I'd question the methods used by the shop that installed the bearing. Was it a Subaru shop?