Fairtax4me

Ah OK gotcha. Part numbers are different, which means there must be some difference. Must be that the cross member pieces are taller for OB and Baja models. You could probably get by with 1" spacers and longer bolts if you can't find the proper cross members.

You need the whole transmission cross member. Difference between AT and MT cross members can be seen here: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_34/engine/engine_mounting/ AT: MT:

That PN 1stsubaruparts.com lists at: ATF-HP/PS FLUID [Part# SOA868V9241] Quantity: Subaru List Price:$7.71 Your Price:$6.61 Either way, still cheaper than the only alternative I could find that actually says it meets Subaru ATF-HP spec. And you don't have to wait for shipping.

Here's to a job well did! Yeah this is one of the easier repairs on a Subaru., assuming you don't live in the rust belt. I did one on my sedan, with the help of a mega high power impact wrench (some kind of Mac Tools wrench) that belongs to one of the techs at work, had it done in probably 10 minutes.

Under $6 a quart sounds like a winner to me. Most multi-vehicle type ATFs in the auto parts stores cost more than that.

Any fluid that meets "Subaru ATF-HP" fluid specification will work. Problem is it's hard to find a fluid that says it meets it. Neither Castrol or Pennzoil seem to list any fluid that shows this spec. Not for off the shelf consumer purchase at least. Amsoil Synthetic Multi-vehicle ATF does, but it's 11.50 a quart. http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/atf.aspx I would think any synthetic multi-vehicle fluid, eg. Castrol Import Multi-vehicle ATF, should work fine though.

They aren't that hard to take apart and clean the buttons out. A bit time consuming, but you can re-grease the mechanism with fresh Cola-free silicone grease, and have it working as it should for the next 100 colas in the cupholder.

How many miles on the car? Checked the lug nuts yet?

HVAC controls are all electric. Check fuses.

If the TC pulled out that far you may need to re-seat the spring clip that holds the tube shaft in place. The reason the torque converter needs to be seated properly is it drives the transmission oil pump. To do this it has some notches in the end of the torque converter shaft that have to line up with the teeth on the pump. If they don't mesh together the torque converter will jam the pump drive when the engine is bolted back to the transmission. The first time the engine is started it will grenade the trans oil pump. I seem to remember there being a thread here with a video on Youtube of how to do it properly in a Subaru. Bolt motor mounts to the engine before putting it in the car. Edit: Here's a thread with some pics at least. The ones at the top don't work anymore, but there are new pics towards the end of the thread. http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81925&highlight=Seating+torque+converter

The "newness" of the new clutch will wear off in a few hundred miles and it will start to feel more like it used to. I had the same feeling when I replaced mine. Thought I would have to get another return spring to make up for the lack of pedal feel, but it came back after about 500 miles. The flywheel looks better than the one I had done. I see they didn't put a step in yours. Mine had a step that the machinist measured at .005". I almost told him to just make it flat. Probably should have, I think it was $10 more for step. I paid $60 to have it machined and it included the step plus removal and installation of the alignment dowels for the pressure plate.

You're looking for an AC pulse in the 2V range. The cam and crank sensor wires both go directly to the ECU, no under hood grounds.

If the bearing is bad there will be noticeable play in the shaft, and lots of noise. Bratman has a good point though. How old is the belt? Have you tried adjusting it yet?

Measure the circumference of the tire after mounted and inflated properly, and compare that to one of the tires on the car. If it's within 1/4" of the ones on the car then you are good to go.

Rebuild an option? Only takes about an hour once it's removed. Edit: Assuming you can even get a rebuild kit, it would take about an hour. I'm not finding a listing for one at any of the online dealer parts places. Also, the pulleys are very easy to remove, so swapping it should not be an issue if you need to go that route.

Time-sert recommends you use grease on the drill and cutting bits to catch the shavings that are produced. Apparently it works pretty well. Everyone I've talked to who has used a time-sert kit for spark plug threads has done it with the head sill on the engine and had no problems with shavings getting into the cylinder.

Hopefully the stub seal was not damaged during all of that. Keep an eye on the differential fluid level. The stub has to be removed to install the circlip. Thanks Shawn for clarification, the stubs on the auto trans CAN be pulled out, circlip popped on the end and then pushed back into the trans. Also there is no access to the differential from inside the transmission. The differential is an entirely separate unit, just built into the same case. It has it's own fluid and is completely sealed away from the inner workings of the rest of the transmission.

Suspension parts are going to be your biggest issues in the next 15-20k miles probably. Ball joints, tie rod ends, might need struts, axle boots (you had one already, others will soon follow). None of which are really big ticket items, but having a shop replace them can be a little $$$. Belts, hoses, that sort of thing are all good preventative maintenance. Funny that you mention valves. The DOHC engines have a tendency to burn valves with higher mileage. If it has never been done, it would be wise to have the valve lash clearance adjusted. It's not a difficult job per-se, but very time consuming and can run anywhere from $700 - $1000 at a shop. It's a chunk of change up front, but the alternative is ending up with a burned valve which will cause the cylinder to go dead. It would have no compression on that cylinder, which would mean very poor running (lots of shaking), and a BIG loss of power. Then the head has to be removed and the valve replaced at a cost of about $1500- 2000 depending on who does the work.

As Mark said there is no reason to remove the fuel rails to get the intake manifold out. All the fuel piping and rails will come off with the manifold. Remove the intake tubing, disconnect throttle and cruise cables, disconnect fuel hoses (I recommend replacing them), PCV hose pulled out of the way, spark plug wires unhooked and set on top of the manifold, a few wire connectors for the temp sensors under the passenger rear intake runner, unhook the three large wire harness connectors on the passenger side of the bellhousing. Then remove the bolt that holds the hook bracket to the block, and 8 bolts that hold the manifold to the heads. Give a tap to knock it loose and lift it up and out of the way. You will have to move the power steering pump prior to removing the intake manifold. There are three 12mm bolts accessible through the holes in the pulley, and two 10mm bolts that hold the power steering lines to the manifold which need to be removed. Then the pump can be lifted and pushed off to the side. Basically it will sit right in the air filter box and be completely out of the way.

Right. The "safe" way to do it is take it to autozone or somewhere like that and ask them to bench test it. Don't say you rebuilt it, just say it had some trouble starting and you want to make sure it's not the starter.

Depends on what you mean by "front end". Rear bushings would not cause this. What other work has been done on the car recently?

The cooler lines are part steel tube, part rubber. They go into the transmission case on the drivers side. The rubber hoses are known to dry rot and split. ATF cooler hose is like $2 a foot at most parts stores. The steel lines can rust and get pinhole leaks. The rusted parts can often be cut out and replaced with a rubber section with no problem.

There is a "sweet spot" in the middle where the cam will sit still but even a small bump could make it snap out of position. Put a long wrench or breaker bar with a socket on the cam sprocket bolt and use that to slowly turn the cam to position.

Sucks that a $0.42 circlip could be the downfall of a car. Take the axle off and see what damage if any was done. If it just needs a new clip, you can get one from Subaru, and it looks like (just looking at parts diagram in the FSM) you might be able to pop the stub back in.

Yeah it shouldn't move in/out at all. Maybe enough to feel a slight click if you push/pull on it hard enough, but hardly enough to actually see. I'd remove the axle and stub, and check the splines on the diff end of the stub. I don't know if the retaining clips can be replaced on these or not. The transmission is assembled with the stubs already engaged in the diff, and they're not supposed to be removed AFAIK. Worst case you may be looking for a new transmission.