Fairtax4me

Did you adjust the TPS so the voltage reading at the ECM is within spec of 0.45 - 0.55V when the throttle is closed?

Older cars are 65 ft-lbs. Can't imagine 09 is much different.

Opposedforces.com can help you with parts interchangeability. The cross member bolts go inside the frame where rust shouldn't get to them, but you never know. But you should be able to get them loose with a breaker bar and half inch socket if your Impact won't do it.

I've found that if you remove the lug nuts on a regular basis the little tool that comes with the car will suffice. Although the T handle lug wrenches are easier to spin around. If you swap wheels though, you should torque the lug nuts with a torque wrench to avoid over tightening and warping the brake rotors.

On the earlier models, P0440 is a general Evap system code. It just means the ECM has found some fault with the Evap system, sometimes a leak, sometimes a stuck/dead solenoid, but the ECM can't pin down the problem because the programming isn't advanced enough to determine the actual source. Depending on year, model, transmission and engine type, there might not be a code specifically for the purge solenoid programmed in the ECM. So when there is an issue with the solenoid the ECM will just use the P0440 code. Later models still use the 440 code because the programming is still there but, other codes are often present when the 440 code is set. As OBD2 progressed into the late 90's and early 00's and the diagnostic programming became more advanced, they added codes for the ECM to be able to better pinpoint problems. One of them, P0444 is a code for Purge control valve circuit open. As far as I can tell that code wasn't used until about 2000. In the 2000 Legacy FSM P0444 code is listed for MT vars, but not for AT cars. I can't find an FSM for a 99 OBS so I can't say if the OP's car could have that code or not.

So that stuff came off? Hmm, that's really strange. I've never seen heavy deposits like that. Burnt valves are usually pretty clean because they get so hot anything on them just burns off. I wonder if the burnt valve is a result of the buildup then? Possibly the seats are too wide so the valve cools too quickly and the deposits build up. But then some of the crud broke away and allowed enough heat in one place to make a hot spot and melt the valve? Maybe someone who knows more about it will chime in. :-p

Yeah the main pressure gallery for the block and passenger head runs right behind there I think. So any where for that oil to go it's going to go with about 40-70 psi behind it. Did the block look corroded at all right there? Kinda wonder if someone jammed a prybar or screwdriver down there trying to get leverage and cut it just enough to make a weak spot.

Junkyard is good. Raw gas smell fits with Nomads filler pipe suggestion. It's a pretty common issue on Subarus, worth checking out at least. The solenoid part number was pulled from Opposedforces.com. The same part is used in Forester, Impreza, and Legacy models across a wide range of years. http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/16102AA080/

Automagic or manual transmission? When was the last time it had a good tune-up? NGK Plugs & wires, air & fuel filters, PCV valve, oxygen sensors? Any recent work done? No Check Engine Light?

That is melted valves. You have some serious heat going on in that cylinder. I'd definitely swap injectors. One valve could be a clearance issue, but both valves looking like that... Not good. Could be a valve seat issue, fuel, a bad intake gasket letting in too much air, any number of things. You should definitely check and adjust lash clearance, and make sure the fuel injectors get replaced, at least with a junkyard set before you put that back on the road.

<----- @ Did, not realize you were in Philly Hohieu.

Sounds like a full day. Kinda nice when you get something done and don't have any problems with it after. I was surprised the first time I pulled the cam covers off my '96 to see about 5 or 6 white green and orange marks on each sprocket. The strange thing was... none of them seemed to line up with any of the marks on the other sprocket.

In my experience clutches don't fail in 50 miles unless they're covered in oil from a leaking transmission or engine seal. My guess would be the shop installed either a new disc OR pressure plate, but NOT both as should have been done. Or that they used the cheapest POS clutch kit they could get their greasy hands on. Shaking and rumbling after a clutch job just sounds bad. Pictures of loose flywheel bolts and grenaded clutch discs come to mind. I think you need a shop that works specifically on Subarus so the problem can be diagnosed properly. I know we have a very knowledgable member "Davebugs" near Pittsburgh who knows his way around a Subaru or three, but that's on the other end of the state. But you could shoot him a PM and ask if he knows of a good Subaru shop/mechanic in/near Philly. You could also make a new thread about it to get advice from other members. We have plenty of helpful members from the NE area who can help point you in the right direction.

Have plastic hub caps?

Good way to put it. Unfortunately there is no available window deflector for these cars until you get up to like 2000 and newer models. And there's no alternative unless you want to "customize" them. The problem with these is the windows have no frames to stick the deflectors to. They have to stick to the body of the car, BUT there's another problem, when the door opens... Basically the deflectors have to be so shallow that they don't do any good, because otherwise you can't get the door open if the window is rolled all the way up. I've seen them on the 2000+ models, they stick out like 2 inches from the car and really don't look like they would do any good. When the glass is rolled down it moves away from the seals on the door frame, so any water that runs off the deflector will still drip right in the window and all over the door panel & person in the seat.

Oh so it melted the top cover of the box? I was thinking it melted the bottom part where the connectors stick up. That could have just been from the link getting hot and blowing. Probably happened because of the alternator problem. Pics help a lot! What's in there now is a wire, NOT a fusible link. You need to replace with the proper link that ASAP. Junkyard is your friend. I might have one I could send you if you can't find one at a pik'n'pull. I know I had one floating around somewhere but I'll have to look to make sure I still have it. Worst case those are about $10-$12 new at a dealer. Part number: 82301GA060 http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=15264

AC belt will be in the way. Not much room between the AC belt tensioner and the radiator fan even for a wrench. If you don't have a 0 offset box end you have two options. Remove the tensioner bracket without moving the tensioner pulley (actually easier than it sounds), or remove the fan. The loosen the tensioner nut for the ac belt, turn the bolt to release the tension, remove AC belt then install the alternator belt. reassemble, adjust belt tension until you have around 1/4" of belt deflection (how far the belt moves when you firmly push on it with your hand).

Could be the carrier bearing. Take the driveshaft off and spin the bearing around, see if it's dry/rumbly. I would say drive the car in FWD, but you would have to put a plug in the tail housing to keep it from puking all the ATF out.

I'd replace the whole fuse box. It's not good if the box gets hot enough to melt and the link doesn't blow, that's a disaster waiting to happen.

I had a hell of a time finding replacements for these last year. Subaru uses the same hose for two sides of the "loop". It looks like it won't work on the IAC side, but it does once the hose is installed. Kinda hokey, but it works and it's cheap at just 6.00 list price. Get Two of these: 807607190 And get One of these: 21144AA001

Ususaly that's the code for the evap purge solenoid under the intake runners on the passenger side. That is this part: 16102AA080 http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=15215 I'd get one from a junkyard before paying a dealer for it.

I was in the same boat looking for single port headers. I gave up. Finding a custom exhaust shop that will make one for you is probably the easiest way. Single port headers are almost impossible to come by from what I've found. Borla made one, but I think they stopped production a few years ago. I might be wrong but I couldn't find anywhere that could actually get one. There was a smaller company that made a bunch not long ago but they only seem to do limited production runs for group buys. I forget the name of the company but you can find info by searching google. There was a big thread in one of the Impreza forums about it.

Check simple stuff first. Vacuum hoses, PCV and breather hoses, air inlet tube clamps. The knock sensor can cause power loss, but the other stuff is easy to check and much cheaper to start with. Once you clear that the knock sensor is fairly easy to replace. Check out this thread for detailed instructions: http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=120610

I hold the sprockets with the old timing belt to loosen and tighten the bolts. The Key slot is only for alignment purposes when installing and is not under any stress when the bolt is in place and tightened to proper torque spec. I wouldn't worry about it too much.

Impact wrench wont get it loose? The nut is tight but it's steel, once it cracks loose it will fly right off.