timfreddo

Passenger side intake manifold gasket seems to be the problem. Mech friend of mine found it. Guess its always worth going back to basics Anyone done a manifold gasket before? any hiccups. Cheers for the help, Tim.

So I found this.... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=997387#post997387 pretty helpful. Realised i had the knock sensor on at the wrong angle, and i had massivly over tightened it. so i pulled it out, had a look. there is a little gap like the one you can see in the last photo, maybe not that big. Put the sensor on again in a better angle, lightly tightened and it did seem to improve my idle slightly.... not much though. So I'm wondering if you think it would be worth buying another $70 knock sensor and trying that? cheers, Tim

yeah now there is 154,000kms. so only 32,000kms since timing belt, and i'm assuming idler pulleys/tensioners were replaced/checked. still pretty good for a 92. Thaught it was a bargain at the time.. Can you tell me if there is a mark on the metal of the cam pulley wheels? looks like the last person to change the timing belt went abit overboard on the whiteout marker. (hopefully the photo works...) The two whiteout blots did seem to be a little off, but it would be good to know if i can scrape the whiteout off without loosing the mark on the metal to investigate more accurately. Head gasket.. Mech just said they were blown, and gave me a huge bill if i wanted it fixed. there is no oil in coolant, or vise versa. there is a tiny oil leak from im assuming (from what i can see from under the car) the rear of each head gasket, but i'm not chewing through oil by any means... If the head gasket was that bad, it would affect compression test results, wouldnt it..??? Have yet to do wet comp test, how much oil and what procedure would you recommend? Another forum mentioned this might be the problem... http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19809 I'm not an electrical guy, so this flys way over my head. help appreciated with the too if possible? Once again, thankyou for your advice and help. It's much appreciated by all who use this forum. Cheers, Tim...

Whats wet and dry? Receipt from timing belt service says... "new belt, 2x new camseals, 1x new crankshaft seal. Inspect pulley wheels and helicoiled tensioner back on." Timing belt replaced at 122,000 kms, now its done 154,000 date done 16th Feb 2010. thanks

Ok, so Took off Air Idle Control Valve, (came off pretty easy so maybe this has been a problem before with a previous owner...) Cleaned it up with carby cleaner, even though it was pretty clean already, valve span fine etc... put it all back together and still have the problem. I'ts only when car is idling. ECU still only giving me knock sensor code. Do you think the new knock sensor i baught could be ************e? Do you think the bad head gaskets could be causing the problem, even though compression on all cylinders is 151-153 lbs/sq-In? Anything else i can try? Cheers, Tim

OK...... New Leads, new spark plugs... Same problem. Drives fine when above 1100rpm, but when stopped at lights etc the engine slowly drops the revs to about 6-700rpm, then picks back up to around 1300rpm, before dropping back down again. the whole drop down, pick up takes arond 2-3 sec per cycle. Repeat the process for the duration of the stop, and then its fine again when you start moving.... Any hints? Cheers, Tim

I'm in Aus, checked prices on leads. only $60 Will change leads and plugs and hopefully that'll help the problem..... cheers, help much apreciated.

cheers for reply. Last timing belt at 122,000km, it now has 152,000km. Last spark plugs at 148000. last tune up at 139,000km unknown last leads replacement, but the writing is still visable and they dont look too old... Do you think it would be worth changing leads and plugs as a first thing to do. Leads are a little pricey, was tring to keep costs to a minimum due to planned trip overseas

Hi All, Just after a bit of help with my subie. 92 EJ22 auto. Check engine light is on. Idling pretty roughly, so took it to local Subaru mech to have a look. They said faulty knock sensor and headgasket, swaybar links were gone. Not sure if the head gaset is causing the idling problem though... No Oil in coolant or vice versa, but does leak oil from one of the gaskets when its warm and running. Just did a compression test, and all cylinders are running between 151 and 153 lbs/sqIn. Check engine light gave me code 22 (knock sensor) so i replaced the old (cracked) one, for a brand newbie. But Even after I reset the Computer both ways, 12hours without batt connected then run for a little while without touching throttle etc... and tried the ignition on, shift through gears, turn on, run at more than 30km/h for more than 1 min and wait for even CEL flashes. ButIts still giving me code 22, and once, but not since it gave me a 43. I looked up the code list i found on this site, and the lists said for my model there is no 43, but for the older model, code 43 is fuel injection problem... I'm jut trying to get the beast running well, so I can sell it and move overseas. Any help with what you think could be wrong with it would be much appreciated. Sorry my post is all over the place, and spelling is bad Cheers, Tim.

Just wondering if we can Leave the car in FWD permanently, and what problems that might cause, as the car is quite old now, and with a repair of $700US its going to cost almost as much as i could sell the car for here in New Zealand. Tim.

Hey, Just a couple of Q's about my problem child. 1994 legacy Ts-r, AT, 220000 km. Car has new CV's. As i accelerate with the wheel turned (ie turning from traffic lights, turning tight bends) the car makes a shuddery/jolty shake and loud noises associated, until the car is headed straight again. Seems like back inside wheel tries to turn faster than the rest (grip,slip,grip,slip etc..). No probs going faster than 10km/h. I put in the FWD fuse and prob stops. Questions are... 1. Is it ok for me to drive round with the FWD fuse in all the time? how about highway driving? 2. Any Ideas on what it could be/How i can fix the prob? Any help would be great. Thanks, Tim.

Hi, My 1994 ts-r did something weired the other day, i'll try and explain it to see if you can help. Was adjusting the cigarette lighter socket, partially broken, moves around in the plastic dash peice. Mustv'e been a little heavy handed as a small puff of smoke (possibly dust) came out. Now everything electrical on that part of the dash doesnt work anymore. Air con controls, CD stacker control and cigg lighter aren't working. Radio still works. Do you guys know if one fuse covers all of the above? If so, is it 10, 15 or 20 and could you let me know where its located? The cars a Jap import, so all writing is all in Japanese Is it easy to follow the Haynes Manual in regards to this? just in case its the wiring and not a fuse? Looking forward to your responses. Tim.

not sure if its the same on a 96 model as my 94 model, but to undo the crank bolt, i placed a large breaker bar either on the chassis next to the battery (bit tight to get on the chassis), or on the ground. take the wires off the dist cap, and crank her over just once (scary), MAKE SURE NOT TO START THE CAR!!! there will be a big clunking, and a bit off kickback on the breaker bar, but if you get it right, the bolt will be loose. To crank it back up, i used the screwdriver in the veiwing hole trick. on the rear of the engine block there'll be a little black plastic cap (if our models are the same??). shove a long screwdriver down the thin gap, and turn the engine clockwise, untill the screwdriver jams. then crank the hell out of the bolt. this is assuming its and auto. if its manual, chuck her in 5th, and have someone put the breaks on. Let us know how you go Tim.

Just went through this job. here's a couple of things that may be useful. if removing fans, they only slot onto the bottom bolts, which snap very easily, so just loosen them off. i needed to use 2 screwdrivers to lever the crank pulley wheel off. just make sure you dont gouge anything with the ends. I found the Starter motor technique (if its auto) to jolt the bolt loose works very well, just pad everything up. hope you have beetr luck than me be very glad you have a non-interferance motor!! Tim.

still have the problem of not having anything to hold the pulleywheels still while i do them up, so dropped it in this morning. hopefully they put it back together, and started it up... will let you know the result and how much more it costs down here in New Zealand! Cheers for replies Tim

hey guys. 1994 legacy t-sr. 2L quadcam. So iv'e given up on trying to put the beast back together again, will let a mechanic do it for me. reasons for doing this are that whilst trying to re-tension bolts holding the cam pulleys on, i managed to spin the left in pulley, which resulted in a rather loud thunk, or metallic cracking sound. I'm guessing this was the sound of valves going where valves were never meant to go?? so instead of putting it back together (again) and seeing that it wont start, im going to get it towed to mech anyone know how long the labour should be to... 1. have a look at the valves to see if their f*&ked 2. fix valves and put the kit back together again? i dunno how it workes if iv'e already got the timing belt off? i was going to put all the screws in very clearly labelled ziplock bags for when they go to put it back together again. pain in the bum as it has a pretty new timing belt/waterpump (3000km ago, and brand new seals (i saw to that). is it acceptable for them to charge me for a new timing belt and seals? do they have to wreck the seals to get them out to look at valves? anything else i should be wary of/ have done? comments and answers are greatly appreciated anyone else have a similar tale? Cheers Tim.

is it weird that the camshaft doesn't allign with its mark when the cam pulleys line up? anyone know a more clear answer on the valves bending, or is it a sometimes happens thing? Tim.

hey. you may have been following the probs i have had with m my oil seals change. today was quite productive. i managed to get very lucky and be able to grab the broken oil pump bolt with some pliers and twist if out. also managed...finally... to get all my camwheel bolts loose. just needed lots of grunt with the breaker bar! Changed the seals, worked out the oil leak i had must've been coming from the right exaust pully, as the seal fell out when i took the pully off! put the wheels back on, planning to tighten them when i had the belt back on. put belt on, pulled the tensioner pin... all looking good, getting exited! Put on crankwheel on, did the ole screwdriver trick, tightened the shiz-nit out of it. tried to tighten the camwheel bolts up as much as poss, however when i tightened them, using the screwdriver trick, they started spinning while the timing belt stayed still....************! span them all the way round, lined up all the marks (except crankwheel, which didnt line up anymore for some reason....??) started the beast...... DIDNT START!!! so im guessing the timings out??? or maybe i screwed the valves when the cam pulleys span 90deg while i was trying to tighten them up??? What are your thaughts? how can i fix what ive created? Any help would be greatly appreciated.... especcially if this has happened to you, and you fixed it without having to take it all apart again... Cheers Tim

im getting pretty frustrated now, with this oil seal leaking. have changed the oil pump seal and crankshaft seal, now just the matter of getting the cam pulleys off. its a quadcam 2L AT legacy 1994. am holding the pulley with a pair of massive adj pliers, and have someone else give the centre bolt all they have with a 3ft breaker bar, and we cant get it to budge. Any ideas? is it going to be this hard to do up the bolts again? How much is the inlet cam on the left side of the car allowed to spinbefore the valves collide? it has spun a quater turn a few times while i've been trying to undo the bolt. Cheers Tim

i'm pretty sure its a 1994 legacy ts-r. chassis a BG-5 if that helps. Any news on the napped off bolt problem?? Cheers Tim.

hi. Yay, finally got the crankshaft pulley off, used the old ignition bump. now have to get the bloody cam pulleys off, tried a couple of ways to keep them still but no luck! Any tips to holding them still that dont involve putting it all back together and undoing while under belt tension? decided i'll sort them out on my next day off while i wait for a reply from you... next up, change oil pump o-ring. undo all the bolts, pump is a mother -f-er to get off, eventually got it off, swapped the o-ring, do up 6 of the 7 bolts, on the 7th....FRIKING SNAP THE BOLT!!!.... this leads to another question... What do i do??? i recon the bolt snapped at about engine block depth. im guessing if it snapped with a bit of thread in each side, it'll still hold the pump on. however... if it snapped with none in the front half of the oil pump, im guessing its f*&ked and will start to leak???? one more thing (before im up to this step for once) how do you get the cam pulleys and crank pullys done up tight enough? i was under the impression only 2.5L legacies were quad cam... but my car's labelled a T-SR?? Cheers for reading this much if you did Tim.

Hi. I am trying to replace the seals in my 94 legacy, just went out and baught a big breaker bar, and sourced a chain wrench. i'll try to explain the prob to you.... 1. put chain wrench on crankshaft pulley 2. Put breaker bar with socket over the bolt in the middle 3. turn breaker bar, whilst holding chain wrench still. now comes the problem.... 4. the outside of the pulley is held still by the wrench as expected, but the inside of the pulley(including the seal) spins as i turn, instead of just the nut undoing. 5. Get very annoyed, coz im guessing now my top dead centre is F*&ked up! anyone else had this prob, or any clues on how to solve problem. cheers Tim

Hey, Thanks for the help. Is there any way of knowing whether its a camshaft or crankshaft seal that needs replacing before taking it to bits? or is it just more likely to be camshaft? just had Cambelt done very recently, Damn! Here's a pic i found, to help me ask questions about the work. (Thanks heaps for the pic!!!!) OK, so if its a camshaft seal leaking, i will need to take off the sproket where the wrench is, and the seal will be behind that.... this is the side the leak is dripping down too. Are there 2 camseals- 1 on either side? If its the crankshaft seal leaking, i will need to fix the seal behind the crankshaft sproket (little one under the belt in the middle). Any tricks to getting the sprockets off without specialized (chainwrench etc..) tools?? anything else to know? Guess it'll all make sense when i get in there and have a proper look! Cheers Tim

Hi. My 94 legacy ts-r just started leaking oil pretty bad. Bit of a wiered leak though. seems only to leak when the oil is hot. leaking rate is a 10cm accross puddle, in about half an hour. doesnt seem to leak once oil has cooled again. had a look underneath and it seems to be coming out the right hand side of the timing belt cover. I took the cover off, and there wasnt any oil spattered around inside the cover, so think it must be coming out of the head. wiped the head down to try and see where its coming from, doesn't seem to be coming out the bottom of the gasket, but rather a point i cant see maybe half way up the head. (hard to say, cant find a photo on the net) any bolts up there that could've come loose? Or other thaughts on where it could be coming from? Cheers Tim.

hi. i have a 94 Legacy TSR auto. was making clunking/shuddering noises when accelerating around corners. feels like there is a sudden slip happening each diff rotation. replaced front cv's, but it seems the noise is coming from the back. not sure if its a diff or bearing problem, most of noise seems to come from rear left side. so thaught it might be something to do with rear left wheel. i have a broken 92 Legacy GT auto also. would i be able to swap the parts (rear diff etc) from the 92 to the 94? thanks for your help Tim.