losingalltouch

The latest issue with my 86' GL-10 turbo is a dirty fuel tank. Tank sat all Winter with nearly nothing in it. Been driving the car since May. Fuel filter/pump have gotten clogged a few times. For the sake of postponing the inevitable we just dumped them out and put them back in. Worked a few times but last night it didn't. Problem has been getting worse. So, question is, is it worth it to try to clean the fuel tank with a home cleaning/sealing kit? Or is it better to have a pro do it, or just buy a new tank? Has anyone had success with a home cleaning kit? Thanks!

Bumping this... Really need some help!! I'll try to post a video.

Thanks! Yeah, I had to take them off a couple times during the engine swap so I'm not looking forward to it. I'll try the pressure gauge, thanks!

Would I be able to see it leaking if a took them all off with the engine off? Is it possible one is only leaking while the engine is on? I guess the big question is: should this be addressed immediately? Will fuel in the oil cause major damage? Thanks!

Here's another problem I noticed with my MPFI 86' GL-10 Turbo after an engine swap. I checked the oil level and it definitely smelled like gas in there. Could my fuel mixture be too rich? I'm getting pretty good mpg and the engine runs GREAT. What's the best way to adjust the mixture? Is it best to take it to a shop? I also read it could be related to a faulty fuel pump. There's been some crud in my fuel at times, so I've been giving the car gas every time I start it up. Had to drain out the fuel pump once 'cause it was clogged, but seems to be working now. I know it's not best but I'm trying to avoid uncovering problems until my next paycheck! Thanks!

I've put close to 500 miles on my 86' GL-10 Turbo after an engine swap including a new clutch. I've had this continual odd noise from the clutch that happen whenever I shift gears and release the pedal too fast, or when I ride gears ( 2nd gear at 20mph, for example). Haven't heard this in 4th or 5th gear at all. Didn't have this problem before the engine swap, either. The noise kind of sounds like a quick "cough" or metal-against-file kind of noise. This only happens when I'm not accelerating. The clutch is adjusted so that it releases a few inches from the floor (this is what I read to do for a new clutch). I don't have this problem when I release the clutch pedal slowly, so that's what I've been doing lately. It still happens when I ride gears, especially downhill. Could this just be the noise of the clutch wearing in? Should I tighten/loosen the clutch? I checked all the engine-to transmission bolts and they're fine. Haven't checked the pitching stopper rod but it seems tight. Thanks

Thanks, We drove her in the middle of the night to help out. All was well on flat ground, but as soon as we hit the foothills the temp started to creep up. Hopefully it's just the radiator. I'm starting to learn it's never "just" anything with a subaru of this age

I am now looking for a new radiator for my EA82T. Engine has been overheating and given that no matter how much I flush it there's still crap coming out of the radiator I figure it's time for new, non-rusty one. I don't have the time for any major modifications but I was wondering if there is a better alternative to a new stock radiator for roughly the same price? I've been finding stock ones new on ebay for under $100. Suggestions?

Update: Decided to drive the car as far as we could anyway after finding out we need a new radiator (ours is disintegrating into the coolant-three days of flushing and we still got black flakes from the radiator and crud!!). We made it about 100 miles (to the foothills) and it started overheating. Was going alright then jumped up into the red. Pulled over immediately and all the coolant shot out of the plastic reservoir. Got it towed the rest of the way and now we're gonna shop for a new radiator. Thanks for all the info. I didn't hear a single knock or ping the whole way. Originally, a friend snapped one of the knock sensor's prongs down into the unit. He jiggled it back up, super glued it and we put it back in just for fun. Maybe it works? I'm still looking for one, though!!

I've looked at yards between Sacramento and Reno and haven't found one, so if anybody can find one in their area I'll gladly pay! It's the white 2-prong type, and yes it's been said that they can only be found in 85' and 86' turbo models-from what I know that's true. Keep your eyes peeled!!

So, i was told that it would be cool to drive around town without one-I'm essentially looking for the engine knocking if there is a problem? (seems obvious, but I want to make sure). If the engine is knocking does that mean it's overheating? Yes it's been a hard one to find. If I can't find a used one I'll get a new one I just need to move by Monday. Would traveling 60 miles be pushing it? I can get it towed over the pass from there.

I have a 1986 Turbo GL-10 and haven't been able to find a knock sensor for it. I need to take the car on a 200-mile road trip early next week and don't have time to wait for a new part. How risky is it to drive the car without the knock sensor? Is there a way to disengage the turbo to make the trip less risky? I'll be needing to drive over a pass so I'm sure the turbo would be used. Is it worth it to have the car towed? Help!!

Hey there- I have an 86' 4WD GL-10 Turbo with a white two-prong style Knock Sensor. The connector broke off and I can't find it. Found a new one, but now I don't know which way to wire it. Does anybody know the orientation of the red and green wires? Or, does it matter? I know the Knock Sensor is sensitive.. Thanks! Note: The horrible picture is an attempt to draw a top view of a knock sensor (when it's installed on the engine) What I need to know is which sides (right or left) do the red and green wires go?

Hey ya'll, It's warming up so that means it's time again to work on my Subaru. I got a lot of help last Summer while doing engine swap and really appreciate everyone's knowledge. My current issue: I need a new knock sensor for my 1986 GL-10 EA82 turbo. I have a knock sensor for an 88' GL-10 that came off the engine I swapped in. Is there any way to rig a different knock sensor into this engine? The knock sensors for this specific year are upwards of $150 (ande near impossible to find used) whereas the other years are less than half that price. This seems to be my last issue with this car (until I drive it around some more) so I really don't want to sell it if I'm close to working it out. Anyway, I will gladly take your suggestions.

I got in off of ebay from a company called soshin trading company based out of South Gate, CA. It was $500 plus $175 shipping to northern california. It has about 50,000 miles on it. Make sure you clean out the cooling system REALLY WELL. I guess it's worth not paying double for a new one.

Thank you so much, did some more tinkering and it only idles rough when the engine is warm. From what I can gather you had to replace the distributor, but not the ECM? I'd like to think it's just a loose ground but it's probably not that simple. I'll look for vac leaks as well.

Recently swapped the engine on my 86 gl-10 turbo MT after blowing a head gasket, and now have a set of problems. I replaced the EA82T with another one imported from japan. I stripped down the engine and used all the original components except for the turbo. I know there's a few things wrong with the components before I did the engine swap, but nothing was this bad. I also replaced the clutch, and prior to doing the engine swap I repacked the front bearings and replaced the lower ball joints. First problem, the idle is super erratic, changing 100 or more rpms every second or so in the range of 100-1500 rpms, dropping down to 600-900rpms randomly. When it gets down to normal idle speed, the engine usually dies because the rpms jump around so much (it'll dip down to about 400 and then stall). I checked the vaccum system and everything seems to be hooked up fine. Timing seems to be correct. Next major problem: only driven it at like 20mph max, but every time i lift my foot off the accelerator there's this dull metal-on-metal noise that turns my stomache. Almost sounds like the muffler's dragging but it's not. All I can figure so far is I should reset the ecu and see what happens. Any suggestions would be helpful as I know of about 3 pages of possibilities that could be wrong with it. The car didn't behave this way before the engine swap, so I'm trying to consider what has changed, since i kept all the old components. Thanks for any help.

Hey, thanks again turbone (you helped me out a lot with engine swap questions before, all went quite well until now) I'll check it out. Would the engine still turn over if that wire is disconnected?

I recently finished swapping engines and can't get the car to start. Here's the deal: My subaru is an 86' GL-10 turbo. "New" engine i got is a japanese low-mile import. I had to strip everything off the block except the turbo to make everything work with the ecu. So yes, I took off the distributor and I think the timing could be one problem, although i was careful to not mess it up. The "new" engine is an AT and I have an MT so I swapped the flywheel and put in a new clutch. Hooked everything up after the swap and it wont start. Engine turns over, starter seems to be working, All spark plug wires are working, fuel injectors too so I checked the trouble codes. I got code 12, "starter switch off" and can't figure it out. Checked the wiring under the dash and all seems well. I'm still learning about electrical issues so the factory service manual is confusing me, but i THINK i figured out that it's talking about the wire running from the "key switch" (ignition?) to the ECU. Looks fine. I'm going to try putting new gas in the car as the gas that's in it now is about 5 months old. Hopefully that's the problem cause I just don't get why it's not starting (spark+fuel+air= boom, right?). After that I'll check the timing, but if anyone has experience with this trouble code I would appreciate your input. Just seems like the car should still start despite this. Thanks

Thanks again for all the help.. The original engine is a MT. Yeah.. if I can't find the intake hoses I might have to just strip it down and use the block. Short on time/money/close parts yard these days but I'll see what I can do... I'll probably post another thread to see if anyone else has suggestions on all this.. Really appreciate the help.

Started looking at ECUs... Do I have to get an ECU for this EXACT engine?

Hey, thanks a lot. I'd like to use all the components on the XT, probably less work in the long run. Do you mean that there is a whole lot more electrical work required with finding and installing an ECU from another XT? Fun, fun.. Thanks again

Hey there, recently embarked on swapping out my blown 1986 subaru gl-10 ea82 turbo engine with a japanese import, also called an ea82. When I got the engine, I realized it was definitely from a later model as the intake is sitting on top and the turbo is set up a little differently. Now worries abound about making everything match up (especially electrical). It would be great if anybody knows what year this new engine is, or where I might find a good layout of it, or if there is a place where you can look up the engine number. In fact, any useful information about engine swapping would be great. Thanks Please visit: http://photobucket.com/toyotacustomcab for pictures of both engines. The one still in the car is the original EA82 Turbo.