Boosted5speed

Sorry I guess I should have mentioned that mine is an auto. I have seen that chart before, but have never been able to find similar for an automatic.

Will any 95-97 subaru TZ102Z series transmission work in a 95 legacy LSi? I've asked a similar question before, but the difference here is I have a specific transmission im interested in. I sourced a TZ102ZA5AA out of a 97 impreza 2.2L coupe that has fairly low mileage for cheap, and im trying to make sure it will work before I bite. My legacy has a TZ102ZAAAA transmission in it, and from what I can tell , both cars have the same final drive ratio (4.11). Will the Impreza transmission work with the legacy TCU? Is there anything else I should be aware of before going w/ the Impreza transmission? Any information is appreciated, tired of the darn thing sitting in the garage.

I saw the dallas one, and was going to call and see what the code on the transmission was thank you for looking, appreciate the help - it such a pain to find subaru parts down here most of the time. =[ scratch that - the motor/tranny combo in dallas was out of a FWD legacy - for some reason I forgot they even made those.

Yea the transmission I found from the impreza was the only one close by that was a reasonable price, which is why I was asking about interchange . All the legacy transmissions out of 2.2 cars were quite expensive =[ Wow im being silly today - that transmission chart is for manual transmissions lol. Anybody happen to have something similar for the auto's? Code for the tranny is a TZ102ZAAAA-C

Had another thought - will the auto's out of 2.2 impreza awd's work in my legacy, or are they different. Is there a faq or list of swappable transmissions for the legacy? looking at http://www.northursalia.com/techdocs/trannychart/trannychart.pdf - everything looks pretty similar except the impreza tranny has a slightly shorter 4th gear ratio, which wouldn't bother me all that much, should everything else just bolt up or would it need a different tcu, and if so can an impreza tcu even be used in a legacy. Mainly just asking because I found a transmission out of a 95 impreza 2.2 liter awd for 300 bucks.

Well, appreciate your help nipper - guess I need to start looking for a local transmission shop - though I wonder if it might just be easier to find a used working tranny cheap and swap it in, I can probably handle the R&R pretty easily. Im kicking myself for not buying the 98 OBW tranny I saw on craigslist for 275.00 a couple weeks ago :-\ Bytw - I'm in Austin, Tx if anybody happens to be in the area and can recommend someone to take it to.

About 2500 rpm thereabouts on the tach. Fluid still looks good, smells like transmission fluid

Let me try describing the issues a little better then First off, the car has no warning lights active - No CEL codes, trans temp light is not on, but does illuminate as normal on startup. Putting the car into reverse, engagement is very sudden - as soon as you put it into reverse it "jumps" into gear, doesnt take a second or two to build line pressure like normal. Putting the car into drive puts the vehicle into 3rd gear - wont accelerate to 50mph, no overdrive, no downshifting - engine feels like its bogging if you floor it. I do not "know" that the car is in limp home mode, but all the symptoms feel exactly like the ones described for being in limp/failsafe. Manually downshifting through gears changes nothing, feels exactly the same. Manually putting the shift lever into 1st gear causes the car to not move - when you step on the gas, the car feels like it is fighting against a transbrake, or heavily applied brakes (aka trying to brake torque a rwd/fwd car to get the wheels to spin). Not describing normal engine braking when first is manually selected, more like its fighting against the brakes to even move (but the brakes are not engaged) No codes showing, everything looks plugged in, fluid looks good, speedo works, engine feels normal, all the axles are solid, going to fwd only mode changes nothing in the feel. Dont notice any binding with sharp turns either. =\ I'm just kind of lost, and wish I had a 5speed at this point It sounds like the description of what happens when one of the shift solenoids fail, yet its not tossing any codes which I thought it would do.

~159,000ish miles, fluid/filter changed at the 135kish range - don't remember off the top of my head. Tranny fluid is clean and fairly red still, no burnt smell, no metal flakes in the fluid. And everything appears to still be plugged in fairly solidly . And yes, the speedometer works fine. Would limp home mode make the transmission feel like it has a transbrake or your brake torquing the car when you manually put it into first? And THANK YOU! all for the help - its amazing how helpful Subaru owners are compared to some others - I tried posting in a maxima forum asking about timing issues and it took days before I recieved anywhere near this amount of replies.

After using an obd-2 code reader, I have 0 sensor or transmission related faults at the moment, and no CEL =\. Going back outside to check the transmission wiring as suggested. thanks. Also, I saw that info in the 4eat pdf and was thinking that could be it also, only problem is finding a shop that can check it out/repair it for a reasonable cost. Wouldn't something like that also signal a transmission temp sensor warning as well?

Hey everyone, I have a 95 LSi auto with a transmission issue that apparently appeared overnight. About 4 months ago, the car was running/driving perfectly. I parked the car for the evening, and when I started it up the next day and attempted to drive off it appeared to be stuck in limp mode - the car only has third gear available. Reverse works fine, but engages rapidly when you first move it in (no ~1.5second delay like normal, just a ridiculously fast engagement). Manually selecting 2nd feels the same as third, manually selecting first gear and the car goes doesnt want to move - stepping on the gas feels like the brakes are on, with the car still attempting to move. The car does have a check engine light on, I haven't had the opportunity to grab an OBD-II scanner and check it out, but the check engine light was on for other emissions related issues before this occurred. I also didn't think limp home mode would make first gear feel like that. Can the limp home mode disable first gear to where it feels like that? If anybody has any suggestions to figure what it might be that would be awesome - the transmission shops around here want more than it would cost to buy a used transmission just to diagnose the problem, and all seem bent on selling rebuilds.

Could somebody please steer me in the right direction for a crank key, thats pretty much all thats holding me back from getting the car running nicely again .

Ah well, ill give it a shot for a while, im not really concerned with the longetivity of this motor since if i can ever find one i can afford ill be swapping an EJ22T in, the underdrive pully is just a much cheaper option for me to get the car running again.

Hi guys, i was just wondering, my 90 leg fwd 5speed car has the loose crank pully/messed up crank key, i was going to replace my pulley (since the keyslot is worn on it) and i found a really good deal on an underdrive pulley for the ej22. Im just trying to decide if there are any bad points to using an underdrive pulley on these cars. Im going to try and repair the keyslot in the crank itself with some jbweld and the key, and hope it holds long enough for me to arrange the cash and source an EJ22t from a 91-94 turbo. Mainly im just asking if there are any negatives to going with an aftermarket underdrive pulley, as i can get a new one for ~ 20.00 more than a junkyard pulley. Thanks everybody.

From reading the replies it sounds like you probably have an OBD1 2.2 wiring harness, not necessarily a 1.8 obd1 wiring harness.

oops, sorry about the repost then thats just the first time ive noticed it and ive been reading pretty far back on here =\

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2472267332&category=6467 I was getting a kick out of this

The only igniton code its pulling is a 35, purge solonoid inoperative, could that cause the car to feel like it is? i actually drove it extensively today, it has absolutely no power, the more gas you give it, the less it accelerates. When it falls back to idle, it can stall sometimes, and when you give it gas it bogs until ~1100-1200 rpm. Any suggestions people? :edit: oh , also, the car IS NOT driveable without the diagnostic connectors connected (both of them) if you disconnect them, the car will stall or bog out every time you try and take off.

Is it possible to convert a fwd 90 model legacy into an awd model, and what all would you need to do the job correctly. I was considering an engine swap on the car, if i purchased a front clip from a legacy would all i need to do the awd swap be the driveshaft, rear axles, the rear end, + the front clip? or is the entire rear suspension different.

It looks like the 05's are going to have the choice of the h6 or the EJ255(I hope thats the right model #) as your engine choices in the gt's Maybe you should wait a few months and get one of the new legacy's. I personally love how they look.

It revs up rather quickly (like a legacy normally would, i assume) and seems to bog near 5000-5500 and just wont go any higher. I havent actually picked the car up yet, tomorrow (today since its 2:33am ;o) will be the day when i get to start actually working on it. I think my current car is pissed off at me for buying another "daily driver", the alternator or voltage regulator quit on me an hour or so ago . Thx for your help, any more suggestions of things to check will be much appreciated. :edit: also, could it be out of time, like jumped a tooth or so on the belt? I had an 87 GL wagon several years ago that the passenger side timing belt broke, yet the car would still run and drive, albeit on 2cyl, and it felt somewhat similar to this. The EJ22 is a non-interference engine isnt it?

I would rather hack the old one first and determine if thats even the problem ;o As im eventually considering a swap of some sort, it wouldnt make sense for me to buy a new cat for the cars original configuration.

Hello everyone. I just bought a 1990 subaru legacy, i believe its an L? (roll ups, 5speed, no pdl) Anyway, the car idles extremely low(around 450-500rpm) and from 500rpm to 1500 rpm, if you give the car more than 1/10th pedal travel (1/2,2/3 or floored) it will stall out and not rev up. If you hold it to about 1/10th till it gets to about 1500 rpm, then you can rev it as hard as you want, except that it won't rev over about 5000rpm. The CEL flashes every couple of seconds, it doesnt really have any problems starting. I havent actually driven the car to see if it acts any different under load, but either way it shouldnt be doing that and would be rather difficult to drive in traffic Any suggestions would be appreciated, I think the first thing im going to try is gutting the catalytic converter and replacing the fuel filter.