Hentai

Well its gotten to the point were you can smell gas when she is idling and there are very noticable misfires, rocking and bouncing at stop lights and loss of power on the highway. Im bringing it to a local guy. Im guessing injectors or possibly valves are the problem. If he is confident he can fixi it by something sipmle like injectors or such I will go with it. Ifs a big job, like having to remove the heads and getting them rebuilt I would rather do it. Then I know its done right and I can asses every hose, electrical connection, etc. Very frustrating.... All this, on top of my wife hitting a cabby that pulled out into an intersection trying to jump the light and cause a heck of a lot of damage. And the insurance company may be paying us nothing for the accident he caused! Crashed up and runnign poorly... BooBoo (her nickname) is living up to her nickname.

Am at that point if anyone can suggest.

Man alive this is driving me nuts! Code came back again and I replaced the O2 sensor. All seemed good, CEL 1 and 3 again. Went to my final solution was to replce the wires. Started great, ran smooth, all good. Next day CEL again with misfire on 1 and 3. But now it has a very rough idle and seems to be missing while driving when the engine is warm. This is the worst it has been. So till now it has Plugs Wires O2 Sensor Engine Temp Sensor Swapped Coil Various Feul Additives Sea Foamed the intake Please help.....

I posted here that I replaced my engine temp sensor on my 97 Legacy OBW a couple of days ago. In the process I lost about .5 gal of coolant. I added back while running the engine and will check before I go out the next couple of times. I started thinking, and worrying, and as I am deathly afraid of doing a HG replcement (did one on my last car, also prone to Blown HG:banghead: ) Ill ask... When replacing such a small amount should I worry about additives, type of coolant, special need to burp or remove air, etc ? I used a premix 50/50 Prestone I believe. TIA Hentai

Will do. The sensor was $36.10+tax at Subaru. Part # on the receipt is 22630AA041 Mine is a 97 Legacy OBW. Hentai edit: BTW I swapped out a coil from same exact year, model, etc and had same codes pulled after a couple of days. edit 2: the parts guy I talked, as we tried to figure out what sensor it is exactly, said that there are a lot of this one (sensor I replace) during colder weather. As my problems only occur during colder weather I am a bit optimistic.

Some one mentioned tires. I replace a torn tire with a new one and that small difference in size caused a similar type of banging. Just a thought. Hentai

Well to update... yes I finally got to work on her. I replace the Engine Temp Sensor. It is a bear to get to it and to get the the new one it. I cracked one hose and I see how you could easily tear old and hardened vacuum hoses as well. There was quite a bit in the way. The sensor, if I can describe it, is located under the passenger side intake manifold towards the rear of the engine. On mine the guage sensor was smaller but more visable, once I located it the ECU sensor was next to it. It is pretty deep under the intake manifold and is impossible to see it with out removal of several items. You need to remove the air intake as well as all the hoses for the pcv valve as well as a small coolant line and at least 4 vacuum lines. I then had unbolt a harness that held 3 big plugs of wiring to move them far enough away to release the clasp connected to the sensor. A socket with a couple of extensions and a swivel made easy work of getting it out. Upon removal about 1/2 gallon of coolant is lost (doh). Reinstall aint bad esp if you didnt break any of the hoses, like I did. She is running a little better now, idle much smoother. I want to get the code cleared and see what happens. I think next step would be O2 sensor and possibly wires (which have already been replaced but with cheapos from autozone). Thanks for the help gentlemen. Hentai

Great, helpful thread. I know it was mentioned once before but for those who have a problem with the A/C light as well Ill try to let you know ow to take care of it. Its very easy. Once you have the control unit out of the dash, you do not need to remove any screws, simply look at the bottom of the unit, directly under the A/C button towards the back of the unit, there is a tab which you can lift to release the button assembly. The button can then be pulled forward through the unit. Replace the bulb as with the others. To reassemble push button assembly back through the front of the control unit and attach the wiring Hope it helps. Hentai

Murdoc, 1 and 3 are on the same side. I still havent gotten to Subaru but as soon as I do Ill ask em where it the temp sensor is located. Hentai

Is the fuse blown? Not to be smart but if it is.... I did this a while back when first got mine. Drove on the spare for a long time, clunking got pretty hideous. Drove with only FWD for a while. Eventually the clunking stopped, pulled the fwd fuse and everything is 'ok'. What really happened to the gears and what not.... Im scared to think about it. Hentai

It took me a long time to figure out wht you were talking about... yeah Ive found out that the word I thought meant one thing (it means something different in its native language (japanese) than it does in the states, appearently refering to an interesting genre of cartoon porn. lol. Last year I actually traded a coil with a friend with the same car... same year, engine, color, everything and still had the same problem. Once I make it over to Subaru (shudder) and get the parts Ill let you guys know whats happening. Thanks for the help. HENTAI!!

Nipper, Hope you back is doing better. I have the manual... but I didnt know I had to read it. Thanks, Ill start with the temp sensors and go from there. Hentai btw 97 OBW 2.5l and they are codes that my friendly autozone pulled for me

I was thinking about the 1-3 misfire and its relation to the valves, could there be a similarly related specific sensor or part of a part that only affects 1 and 3? Thanks again Ryan

Thanks for the reply. Makes me feel good actually. So I should start with checking the coil? Spray it down with water when the engine is cold? then start and look for sparks? Check the connections? You mentioned ignition. Would that also include wires, plugs, etc? "ECU engine temp sensor" could this also include the block heater (the heater I can plug in to keep the engine warm in extreme cold) that was installed? Feeling pretty darn lost right now, Hentai

I’ve done some searching here and through google. Ive read through some of them I think. I’ve got the P0301 and P0303 codes.... I have a couple of questions I hope you guys might be able to help me with. I’ve done all the typical tune up, wires, plugs, etc. Last winter I had occasional rough idle at start up but once it warmed up it ran great. I played with injector cleaners, engine cleaners and lubricators (in the back of my mind thinking something might help and hoping it isn’t the sticky exhaust valves Ive heard about) Ran great all spring and summer, no check engine light, and bam as soon as cooler fall weather came its ba~~ack. This time a little worse. Pretty rough at start up usually settles with a few minutes of driving. But can be pretty rough at lights even when warm. Anyway. I am thinking it is this valve problem, do I sound way off? Suggestions? Is colder weather more likely to effect sticky valves? (esp at start) If yes. Can I remove the heads without pulling the engine (I’ve heard both opinions here but it is awful tight in there) Once the heads are off, rebuild solves all my problems and add a little pep to my step? Ive got a good place. Replacing head gaskets, etc, hoses and I’m happy and worry free for a long time to come? Thanks for any advice you can give. Hentai