swami2806

I'm going to guess that it's a valve cover--the fact that it only happens when he's on an incline suggests that it's not leaking from anywhere there is oil pressure, or else it would be a constant leak. Get some gunk or degreaser and wash the area down really well, drive it a bit then look for fresh oil.

Thanks everyone. I still haven't taken the covers off, but it would explain why there was a breakdown after only 40k mi. on the belt. mdjdc: I am in Connecticut.

Thanks Gary...what would the rough cost of a valve job be for that (98 2.5)? I can remove the heads and disassemble them. Thanks.

I had a crank pulley blow out at 60K miles! This didn't do anything to the crankshaft, but it tore up the timing covers, some idlers or tensioners (don't remember) and the water pump. Turned out the rubber dampener let go and the pulley separated from its hub. On my Dodge pickup I had the exact same thing happen--mechanic (this was all done by the PO) didn't tighten the crank bolt after changing the timing chain and the pulley, harmonic balancer and key "machined" the end of the crankshaft down. On a 318, the worse that can happen is the crankshaft won't be balanced, so it usually won't leave you stranded.

202k on the odometer. Heads were redone when head gasket replaced b/c of failure at about 100K. Timing belt was changed then too. Changed timing belt again @ ~160k, so failed with ~40k on it (or something failed--haven't opened her up yet).

Well, doing between 45-50 in my '98 legacy w/2.5 on a two-lane road when I lost power and heard a whirring/winding sound. I knew from the sound what happened. I pulled the cover back as much as I could standing on the side of the road and found the belt loose (broken or not unknown) , and what I think are chunks of plastic sprocket. I did a search and read a few posts on these--learned that they're interference engines. Oh perfect:clap: . I read in a number of posts that I should put a new belt on and do a compression test to see if the valves are bent. Should I bother, since I was dong ~50 mph?? Am I right in assuming that the plastic sprocket(s) broke because the cam(s) suddenly stopped because of interference?? Never had this happen, but I didn't hear anything metallic, like pistons hitting valves or valves hitting each other, like I imagined I would if a belt ever went on me on an interference engine. Any advice would be appreciated.

Where did you read that??? Jesus, can anyone on this site read??? Hello? [What the hell am I doing? arguing with a bunch of pantywaists afraid to get their hands dirty]. Why don't you all find a site more appropriate to your personalities, like quiltmaking. Or maybe arranging flowers.

It prolly is your alternator. Voltage regulators, which is prolly the culprit, are inside alternators these days. Just take it off and bring it to a NAPA or someplace to have it tested. If it's not the alt., then you have a short somewhere draining the charge.

I could see bucking the thing enough so the tranny jumps off the mounts. I recently jacked my motor for an oil pan job and didn't see any bolt for a mount on the crossmember. I guess it's lucky they do flex, and not break or crack, given that they're aluminum.

Thanks Myles! Re: Haynes/Chilton: That's why I asked. Thanks for pointing me to that site. It's exactly what I was looking for. Now that the wife has a digital camera, I'll be taking photos along the way. Will post. Hoping to start next weekend, if my helper can make it and all the parts are in. Thanks again. Oh, one more thing--I know the H20 pumps are internal on those. Are they solid? Or should I change it while I'm in there, even though it works fine? Best Clutch pack mfg. for the 2.5? Thanks again.

Things are easier EVERYWHERE than in the country of Cali. Get out of that god forsaken communist country while you still can. Barbara Fienstein should be dragged from the bumper of a V-12 SUV with no emmissions contols over a gravel road. Just my $.02.

Don't know what motor you have, but it should be in the right side. Look at the tranny pan, then look on the other side if the exhaust pipe running on the right side of the tranny pan. You'll see the diff case and the plug.

Wow! Lookes like my knowledge of ignitions are a bit dated! Ya learn something new every day.

Have youdriven at least a 100 miles yet? If you just changed the wires, it will take some time for the computer to readjust everything. It compensated for the misfire, and once it "learns" what's going on w/ the fiirng cylinder it will adjust fuel mixture, air flow/ timing and idle, among other things. If it's revving smoothly, I'd say it was fuel too, but I don't know if one injector would have that effect. I'm going to bet it's an air mixture problem whatever th cause. Definately change the air filter and fuel filter, first, though. Start simple., like other said. As far as octane is concerned, check you owner's manual and use the recommended octane in there.

The sound is prolly a loose or glazed belt