swami2806

I'm going to guess that it's a valve cover--the fact that it only happens when he's on an incline suggests that it's not leaking from anywhere there is oil pressure, or else it would be a constant leak. Get some gunk or degreaser and wash the area down really well, drive it a bit then look for fresh oil.

Thanks everyone. I still haven't taken the covers off, but it would explain why there was a breakdown after only 40k mi. on the belt. mdjdc: I am in Connecticut.

Thanks Gary...what would the rough cost of a valve job be for that (98 2.5)? I can remove the heads and disassemble them. Thanks.

I had a crank pulley blow out at 60K miles! This didn't do anything to the crankshaft, but it tore up the timing covers, some idlers or tensioners (don't remember) and the water pump. Turned out the rubber dampener let go and the pulley separated from its hub. On my Dodge pickup I had the exact same thing happen--mechanic (this was all done by the PO) didn't tighten the crank bolt after changing the timing chain and the pulley, harmonic balancer and key "machined" the end of the crankshaft down. On a 318, the worse that can happen is the crankshaft won't be balanced, so it usually won't leave you stranded.

202k on the odometer. Heads were redone when head gasket replaced b/c of failure at about 100K. Timing belt was changed then too. Changed timing belt again @ ~160k, so failed with ~40k on it (or something failed--haven't opened her up yet).

Well, doing between 45-50 in my '98 legacy w/2.5 on a two-lane road when I lost power and heard a whirring/winding sound. I knew from the sound what happened. I pulled the cover back as much as I could standing on the side of the road and found the belt loose (broken or not unknown) , and what I think are chunks of plastic sprocket. I did a search and read a few posts on these--learned that they're interference engines. Oh perfect:clap: . I read in a number of posts that I should put a new belt on and do a compression test to see if the valves are bent. Should I bother, since I was dong ~50 mph?? Am I right in assuming that the plastic sprocket(s) broke because the cam(s) suddenly stopped because of interference?? Never had this happen, but I didn't hear anything metallic, like pistons hitting valves or valves hitting each other, like I imagined I would if a belt ever went on me on an interference engine. Any advice would be appreciated.

Where did you read that??? Jesus, can anyone on this site read??? Hello? [What the hell am I doing? arguing with a bunch of pantywaists afraid to get their hands dirty]. Why don't you all find a site more appropriate to your personalities, like quiltmaking. Or maybe arranging flowers.

It prolly is your alternator. Voltage regulators, which is prolly the culprit, are inside alternators these days. Just take it off and bring it to a NAPA or someplace to have it tested. If it's not the alt., then you have a short somewhere draining the charge.

I could see bucking the thing enough so the tranny jumps off the mounts. I recently jacked my motor for an oil pan job and didn't see any bolt for a mount on the crossmember. I guess it's lucky they do flex, and not break or crack, given that they're aluminum.

Thanks Myles! Re: Haynes/Chilton: That's why I asked. Thanks for pointing me to that site. It's exactly what I was looking for. Now that the wife has a digital camera, I'll be taking photos along the way. Will post. Hoping to start next weekend, if my helper can make it and all the parts are in. Thanks again. Oh, one more thing--I know the H20 pumps are internal on those. Are they solid? Or should I change it while I'm in there, even though it works fine? Best Clutch pack mfg. for the 2.5? Thanks again.

Things are easier EVERYWHERE than in the country of Cali. Get out of that god forsaken communist country while you still can. Barbara Fienstein should be dragged from the bumper of a V-12 SUV with no emmissions contols over a gravel road. Just my $.02.

Don't know what motor you have, but it should be in the right side. Look at the tranny pan, then look on the other side if the exhaust pipe running on the right side of the tranny pan. You'll see the diff case and the plug.

Wow! Lookes like my knowledge of ignitions are a bit dated! Ya learn something new every day.

Have youdriven at least a 100 miles yet? If you just changed the wires, it will take some time for the computer to readjust everything. It compensated for the misfire, and once it "learns" what's going on w/ the fiirng cylinder it will adjust fuel mixture, air flow/ timing and idle, among other things. If it's revving smoothly, I'd say it was fuel too, but I don't know if one injector would have that effect. I'm going to bet it's an air mixture problem whatever th cause. Definately change the air filter and fuel filter, first, though. Start simple., like other said. As far as octane is concerned, check you owner's manual and use the recommended octane in there.

The sound is prolly a loose or glazed belt

If you're going to quote a post, you should at least read it first. I never said someone should or should not like to get their hands dirty. I stated a fact...nothing subjective about it: Working on cars is messy--You are going to get dirty. If you don't like getting dirty, don't work on cars. If you don't like children, don't become a teacher. Find someone who thinks working on cars is tidy, if you can. Latex gloves will keep oil off your hands, but is going to run down to your arm as you're reaching up. If you drop the filter, it will splash in the pan. Also, there's gojo, by gunk. Use it like soap and delicate little hands are as good as new. By the way, if it's because of the carcenigen (sp?) thing, there's no need to worry if you do occasional work on cars. Mechanics and others in constant contact with it are at the highest risk (I'm not a doctor--I read it in an article about the asbestos scare. It was compared to asbestos in that people who intall the stuff get sick, not those who use buildings when the stuff is finished and sealed.). Put on your rattiest clothes and prepare to get dirty. Suck it up.

Pulling the motor on the wife's 98 2.5 to put in rear main. While it's out, I will be installing new head gaskets and front seals (valve covers and oil pan done last weekend--hoping to avoid pulling motor!). Anyway, is there any information available on revised specs, such as head torque sequence, available? My Hayne's manual for it is 6 years old. Thanks in advance for any direction.

Larry..did the mounts line up, or did you have to mod.? what about bolting to the tranny?

Bring it to your regular mechanic and have him do the analysis thing on the coolant. If there are no gasses, ask him to "burp" the system. tcspeer also makes a good suggestion--check to see if the fins are clogged. Thanks for reminding me to look at the wife's!

How does the case flex? It's on mounts. I have never heard of a problem with a subaru manual that wasn't driver error. But then again, I haven't looked at any TSBs..just going on what I hear.

If you don't want to get your hands dirty, then the last thing you should do is work on a car. Besides, it's not THAT messy--you get a little on your hand when you pull the drain plug and a little when you crack the seal on the filter. That's key..just lossen it till it starts to run out, and let it drain. You dont need ramps or jackstands for this job... everything is right up front. I don't even use a filter wrench, just loosen and tighten by hand. It's almost a joy changing the oil on one of those!

Start simple: When was the last time you changed coolant, cap?? Second, did you have the A/C on initially? There are two 10 amp fuses for the fans on those. One is the regular fan and the other is your A/C fan. The A/C one might have blown and the load caused the overheat. Also, there may not necessaraly be obvious bubbles if it's a head gasket. Call around and ask garages what they charge to analyze your collant. There is this sensor thing that can pick up engine gasses in aintifreeze just by opening your radiator. I'd say to have a pressure test done too, but we already know the answer to that. Hope this helps.

Not much to go wrong on a manual.

If it's not skipping, I'm gueesin' it's a sensor, such as your throttle postion sensor (TPS). 'Puters will run codes even if your 'check engine' light is not illuminated. If there is an Autozone in your area, go there and ask them to put a scanner on your car--It's free. Then post your codes here, and I'll try to find that page w/ the codes in the mean time! If there is no autozone in your area, call around and ask garages what they charge for a diognostic. Most will charge an hrs. worth of labor (which is a ripoff), but some garages do it cheap. Good luck.

Re: my comment about getting used to oil. These things LEAK all the time, from everywhere! You will be dealing w/ seals and gaskets alot. Get used to it!