brysawn
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Posts posted by brysawn
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Where is the sensor, how do i get to it, and how difficult is it to replace? Also, will it harm my car if I rotate the cable the wrong direction?
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I searched first and found some good information. But I'm looking for a little more.
My speedometer doesn't work on my 92 legacy ss and I believe that's where my intermittent CEL is coming from (as with the power icon).
What should I do to find why it isn't working? Start and end where? Is this also why my odometers aren't working?
I read a lot about stripping a gear inside the transmission that I would really like to avoid (if it isn't already)
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Actually I'm still not dead set on replacing it with another automatic. The more I read, it seems like the 4AT to 5MT swap isn't too difficult. So if I can source the parts, I may go down that path
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Well guys, I've been looking for a while but I finally found a factory turbo 1st gen Legacy.
I purchased it from the 2nd owner (one family owned it from new)
Its all stock minus a muffler and wheels.
1992 Legacy SS 156k original miles automatic trans
I got it for a good deal because it needs a new trans. Do the turbo models have a certain trans/gearing? Or are they the same as the other 1st get AWD Legacy's?
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The forester is gonna stay all stock. For the legacy I have a ej205 that should be going in.
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Hey guys, I finally bought a new daily driver. So now my Legacy can be built
Here's the old daily (new project):
And the new daily is a 2003 Forester X with 49k original miles. Just purchased it from the original owner:
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ohh okay. Is there a plug to remove it (or is it hard-wired into something)?
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This may be a stupid question. But in my 1997 Legacy, where in the engine bay is the horn located?
Also, does this car have any sort of alarm system?
Disclaimer: Although this sounds bad, I am not planning to steal any car. I have a 1997 Legacy and am looking to upgrade my horns, but if there is a honking alarm system, I don't want a ridiculously loud horn.
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The code was for the MAF - the reason being; when I put my new plugs in on the passenger side, I unplugged the sensor to take out the air intake tube.
But the lagging issue was due to my plugs, because I have my new ones in and its running perfect again. But the old ones were white at the bottom, so that means its running a little lean, right?
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It's got a 168k miles. And the timing belt was done roughly 20k ago.
I thought that 1997 and later were interference motors, but wasn't my car made in 1996 (for the 97 model year) making it a non-interference engine?
And where will the OBD port be on this car?
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The car is a 1997 Legacy AWD 5-speed EJ22
The car was running perfect until last night, it starting lagging. It feels gutless and powerless before 2500 RPM's, after that it's like normal.
Thinking it may be my plugs, I replaced those. But not only did that not fix the issue, now my CEL is on. I haven't had a chance to read it yet
Any ideas on this?
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I need to adjust the fronts a little, but here she is for now!
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I like the ones in the latest picture much more than in the first. The chrome ones just look cheap.
The chrome was actually polished aluminum. But I like my BBS's too, but they were 4x the price of the other ones
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Oh and here's the car:
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Well, I got rid of the sawblades. I got some better wheels instead BBS RS's (real ones) and I got my coils, I also picked up two tires today (they didn't have all four).
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Here's an update: last night I ordered my coilovers, BC's. And I got tires mounted on my wheels, I already have my adapters and everything.
My wheels are 17x9.5 with a 205/40/17
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The car is a 1997 Legacy AWD EJ22 5-speed
Earlier today I took my rear discs off (along with a bunch of other parts) in order to get my new longer wheel studs installed. Everything went in and back together well, except now my ABS light is on.
I did have to unbolt my ABS ring in order to reinstall the new studs, but it never came off the car (because to reinstall the hub/bearings they have to be pressed). Why is it on? Is the ABS ring orientated a specific way? I looked it over and it looked the same any direction. What could the issue be?
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Same bolt pattern as MKIV VW's (lets say 95.5-2005) and I believe late 90's cavaliers. At 2005.5 they went to 5x112's. Earlier years may work though but a lot of them are 4 bolt.
I KNOW they are the same on a 97 Legacy GT as an 01 VW Golf. Offset must be close as well because there were no issues.
You've got your Volkswagen stats all messed up. Volkswagens came 5x100 since mk3 (93-99.5) but only in the vr6 models. All mk4's (98-05) are 5x100 including the R32. But when they got to mk5 they changed to 5x112 which is what Audi has been using for a while.
But anyways I picked up some 2005 wrx wheels and got them on. They took some modification to fit. But they look good now.
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(If you're open to suggestions), grab some '02-'04(?) WRX wheels. 16". Should be able to be had for pretty cheap, and I think they look good on that generation Legacy.
That's what I was thinking also. I've found a few sets, but they have been too expensive. I think $350 is too much for wrex wheels with bald tires
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Any subaru wheel will work other then newer(05+) sti wheels. As for fitment issues, just correct that with proper sized tires.
Loyale/GL/DL are 4x140. So I'm thinking those won't work
But I'm leaning towards a Volkswagen or Toyota wheel, and proper sized tires don't do a whole lot of good if the wheel is too big to begin with.
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looks like the center bore is 56.1mm
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Hey guys. I'm looking to get some new wheels for my '97 Legacy and I know the bolt pattern is 5x100, but what is the center bore? 5x100 is a very popular size that many different cars use.
Also, how large of a wheel/tire size have you gone without any rubbing/turning issues? I'm looking to do at least a 15" or 16" (until I find tires for my other wheels
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No, a 295 would be much too large. On a 16x8 I did a 205/40, so I'll do something relative to that.
Knock Sensor/Evap code trouble
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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Hey guys, my 98 obs auto just had the CEL come on for a knock sensor and evap/emissions code. I know that the knock sensor is a pretty simpe change, and could very easily fix that code (because the sensor housing is prone to cracks and corrosion) but could that cause the evap code? Any ideas about that one?