quartus

Are exhaust manifold (& turbo) metal gaskets used "dry" or is there some kind of sealant to put on them for an EA82T?

Here's some more info for ya: The numbers on the lid refer to cross section of the fusible link square mm. The two greens are smallest guage .5mm squared, the single red is .85mm squared, and the single black is 1.25mm squared. The red is for the charging circuit, the two greens links supply both the headlights & fuel pump circuits and the all important black 1.25 fusible link pretty much feeds everything in the fusebox via the ignition switch ( here's why I know http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=105444 ). "Fusible link should melt within 15 seconds at a current flow of xxx amperes" They will keep your wiring from burning up and possibly catching fire in case of a short. Heres a photo of links http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=104282

Problem fixed I should of known something was up last week after tightening the steering column shroud when the wheel tilt didn't "tilt" anymore. Anyway she's back running again. I reinsulated the affected wires and carefully put everything back together again. Oh and the black 1.25 fusible link pretty much feeds everything in the fusebox i.e. most of the vehicle.

Thanks John, yeah I could use another black fusible link if you got one. PM Sent. I'm hope the short was actually in the steering column since I had tightened up the column trim the other day (I might of pinched/crushed a wire) and since that where the wire smoked. I'm charging the battery now and will try again to start it later (maybe it was too weakened to turn over the engine). Does anyone know the circuit that the black 1.25 link feeds?

Bad night last night, was tinkering with my 86 GL-10 EA82T and when I turned on the ig switch the steering column starting smoking and the 1.25 black fusible link blew. What system is the black link for? I replaced it with a "wirewrapped" link and opened the steering column and found a melted wire from ig switch. I separated the 4 wires (from switch) and turned on the ignition, my digidash came back on but when I tried to start it the dash went black and everything else too. I need some help bad, any direction to go before I start tearing open wiring harnesses. I'm not sure if I caused the problem or it was just extreme coincidence, I was checking out the factory wiring for foglights but had not even disconnected anything.

What do you mean disconnect? Is that to check the diaphram? It does feel like its starving for fuel, on the other hand I could see that it could be the spark is suppressed, my mileage is only ~ 20 mpg.

I have a boost/vacuum gauge installed and even verified the calibration of the gauge so the 5 psi boost is correct which is a little lower than the 7-9 psi FSM spec, I hope the boost will go up once I replace my leaky front pipe with the one I got from you The whine wasn't from the turbo, it was just a over-rev engine whine from waiting to long to shift, I was just trying to see how high I could get it without missing.

I've been having some severe stumbling at 3500 rpm & higher on my 86 GL-10 4x4 SW EA82T. Here's the latest info, on the way home I tried to see how high rpms would go without missing while giving it little or no boost and it runs quite nice to 4300 rpm or so before I back off (for the whining) which leads me to think the ignition is okay. Its like it would run better without the turbo installed. With that said, what is it about the turbo that would make it miss badly over 3500 rpm @ full boost (~5psi). I know there's a overboost fuel cutoff pressure switch (normally closed?) but that not suppose to engage till > 9psi, and since I have the fuel pump grounded at the pump I don't think it would cutoff the pump anyway ( http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/...d.php?t=103540 ). Things already done/replaced: Plugs, cap rotor, wires, timing @ 25btdc, fuel pump & filter, seafoamed through intake and rest in gas tank. Cleaned MAF & throttle body, no vacuum leaks, disty vacuum & mechanical advance good. Vacuum @ 22"Hg at idle & 5psi @ max boost. Any more ideas Subaru Masters? Prior info http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=104058

UPDATE: OK took out the digidash & reseated all connectors and tightened up every thing I could. Gauge is staying on longer now, single traveling bar along the scale. The single terminal sensor by the thermostat is for the gauge and the two terminal sensor by the knock sensor is for the ECM. As soon as I get some help I'll try jiggling the sensor terminal to see if its has a short.

Will it fit a 86 GL1- 4x4 SW? If so I'll take it!

Hopefully I'll self talk myself into a solution Here's the latest, no the way home I tried to see how high rpms would go without missing and with little or no boost and it runs quite nice to 4300 rpm or so before I back off (for the whining) which leads me to think the ignition is okay. Its like it would run better without the turbo installed. With that said, what is it about the turbo that would make it miss badly over 3500 rpm @ full boost (~5psi). I know there's a overboost fuel cutoff pressure switch (normally closed?) but that not suppose to engage till > 9psi, and since I have the fuel pump grounded at the pump ( see http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=103540 ) I don't think it would cutoff the pump anyway. Any more ideas Subaru Masters?

Have to reopen thread again, the right rotor certainly helped but I still have a bad miss/stumble above 3500rpm, would this be a fuel starvation issue (new fuel pump & filter installed), ignition issue or turbo issue. The reason I say turbo is that I have a smal preturbo exhaust leak and I only get ~ 5psi of boost. This morning I also noted that I could "sneak" up to 4500 rpm range if I kept it from boosting (maintained intake vacuum). If I floor it (full boost), its like I hit a wall @ 3500 rpm and can't accelerate anymore, it just misses and stumbles. Any clues anyone? :-\

Yeah I found some holes on the underside of the bumper where it looks like the floods were attached. I'll try to find some low profile ones to mount. I found the power to them also. Thanks for your help. All would be perfect except for that deer that caught a ride on my GL-10's bumper and dented it in pretty bad. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=104029

Pushed it with low headlights on, the switch lights up! I might just move this to the front burner. I can't find where foglights would of even been mounted, anyone have any details on foglights for 86 GL-10 SW, ie connector locations, mounting location. A photo of some mounted would be great. Last question, assuming everythings there but the foglights themselves, is there a relay already in the circuit and is it a single wire only to each foglight (ok double question)?

Thanks for the info, I'll file that on back burner if case I ever what to add some more lighting.

I have a 86 GL-10 SW 4x4 and have a mystery switch I can't identify. Its not in the owners manual or Hayes, chiltons manual either. Its a orange faced pushbutton switch located on the lower left hand side of the dash, kinda hidden by the steering wheel. The graphic on it looks like maybe a foglight symbol , ~D, (three wavy lines). Anyone know what it controls? It appears not to do anything when engaged.

That would be the part, If its leakfree, how much you want for it with shipping to 22942.

Does anyone know of a supplier of exhaust parts for older Subarus? In particular I need a front exhaust pipe for a 86 GL-10 SW EA82 Turbo. The Pre-turbo exhaust section.

I have the 86 FSM but its somewhat unclear about which temp sensor feeds the digidash. It shows the single terminal sensor by the thermostat as the "needle" style gauge sensor (as opposed to digidash) and the two terminal sensor (by the knock sensor) as the input to the ECM as well as an input to temp gauge (two separate circuits in same sensor assembly). However I like simple so I'll ground out the single terminal sensor lead and see what happens. I'll be taking the dash apart to check for other electrical issues as soon as I get some good schematics.

Thanks for the info, currently I only have an occasional single bar that shows up for a while and then goes away :-\ Would this be a sensor or dash problem?

Is the temp display supposed to be increasing bar segments or just a single bar segment that tracks temp. Which sensor feeds it? The single one by the thermostat or the double one in the back of the engine.

The right parts make a world of difference, the "old" rotor was shorter. I must of had quite a light show going on inside the disty with a little spark left over for the plugs.

Well, sure enough it was the wrong rotor installed. I found the right rotor and the engine is now running fine.

Thanks for the help, there is a pre 11/86 and a post 11/86 rotor to choose from, unfortunately I had neither. I had the 85 nonturbo rotor. I found a great place to get parts, http://www.carpartsdiscount.com, it has clear photos of all the different parts. I ordered the right parts today.

Yes, the disty shaft does have the setscrew hole but the installed rotor is a pushon type, the tip of the rotor & the cap contacts seem a long way apart (not quite 1/4"). Do you have a part# for the rotor?