quartus

Do you have a 86 GL-10 SW EA82Turbo 5sp 4x4? If so can you send me a photo of the rotor in the distributor (# 22100 AA221) I have the screw on disty cap but I think the rotor I have installed is wrong, seems "short" and just pushes on without a setscrew. Even a part number for the rotor would be great but a photo would be best! Thanks

Surely someone has some schematics laying around, howbout just ones for the digital dash?

Does any one have access to 86 FSM Sec 6: Electrical, that can sent or post a scan of the interior wiring diagram(s) including radio? A complete schematic of any other system would be great too!

My 4WD dash indicator doesn't work on my "new' 86 GL-10 SW (5sp pushbutton) so to see if 4WD worked I had all 4 wheels it up on jacks, put it in 1st gear and tested it. It worked great but had a big GRIND during engagement. Lesson learned; First put on brakes to stop the spinning front wheels before pushing button otherwise they won't sync quietly with nonmoving rear wheels You can engage 4WD while moving (below 50 mph) but it helps to let off the gas first so you have good vacuum in the manifold in order to move the vacuum actuator (mounted on trans which moves a cable which engages 4WD)

The digidash temp gauge on my 86 GL-10 SW EA82T 4x4 is possessed. It only works in a narrow temp band. Is the sensor for it near the thermostat (1 contact) or is it combined in the ECU (2 contact) sensor in the back near the knock sensor.

Though probably not recommended, I had the same problem and circumvented it by grounding the NEG terminal on the pump directly to the mounting bracket. I'm sure I disabled some safety function though (ie turbo fuel cut out, etc) http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=103540

Can anyone look up the serial number on my 86 GL-10 SW EA82T 5sp 4WD? The markings on the engine say EA82 (no T) and the serial number is 74753, is this the engine that came with the car? If not what engine is it, ie what year, type etc and whatever else info the serial number will yield. Thanks :-\

Had to reopen the thread, the knock sensor was not disconnected and it only ran smooth till it heated up. What could cause good cold performance and then stumbling after it warms up? I'm guessing the problem is more fuel/air based than ignition based. Anyone have experience with this issue? :-\

86 GL-10 Wgn EA82T, I have 4 fusible links in the little black box on Drivers side rear of the battery, however all they are all just twisted wire i.e. homemade looking. What are they supposed to look like? Where do you get them? Speaking of that, where do you all get parts for the older Subaru?

86 GL-10, EA82T 4x4 I was "seafoaming" the other day and found out I have some serious exhaust leaks in the engine compartment. I've narrowed it down to around the turbo area but since all the exhaust is shrouded I can't see where any leak is. I don't hear any leaks and all I can tell is it's coming from around the turbo. The front & center pipe would be expensive to replace to say the least. Are the inlet & outlet gaskets on the turbo known for leaking?

UPDATE: I ended up having to jumper to ground at the pump to keep it running, I'm guessing it has some kind of kill circuit that cuts power to fuel pump if certain conditions aren't met.

Thanks for the great help, the installed distributor is wired up correctly and I'll check the part# first chance I get. A picture is worth a lot, anyone have a photo or diagram of the distributor, with & without cap on (rotor visible)?

I did see them and have noted them but I can't find on the net how to go from part number to photo of part in question.

I found the problem, simple blown fuse. I thought I had checked them all but I obviously missed # 6, it was blown big time. New fuse installed and running lights are nice & happy. PS The running lamp override is in the headlight switch on this model not on the steering column. Thanks for your input! PSS A Wiring diagram would still be great!

Disconnecting the knock sensor took care of the stumble @ 3500 RPM, the stumble doesn't start till ~ 4500 RPM which I don't hit too often

Heres another note, The stock radio is gone (gaping hole) and I was using the radio wiring connector to "steal" some power off the red contact (12v for ext mp3 player) and shorted it againt the black contact in the connector (spark), no power on the red contact after that but the fuse for the radio was still good (hopefully it was the radio connector). Could that somehow have been connected to parking light circuit? Does anyone has a schematic for the parking lamp circuit they could send me?

My 86 GL-10 EA82T 4x4 Wgn parking lights went out this morning. When the headlight switch is in the parking lights or headlight position then the parking lights don't turn on. Headlights, turn signals & brake lights work though. When I go to the "push & turn left" position on the headlight switch the parking lights all work. Is that a different circuit? Any ideas on the problem or what to check?

I also noted that the replaced rotor seems "short" ie the spark has to jump a long space from the rotor contact to reach the cap contacts. I'm wondering if I just replaced a wrong "old" rotor with a wrong "new" rotor. It certainly would explain the miss at higher rpms. :-\ Add this to the single ported (vs the double ported) vacuum advance and performance would certainly suffer.

Thanks for the fast reply, so how can I tell if I have the right one, ie how many vacuum lines should it have? Also there is an un-connected 2 wire connector hanging off the distributor, do you know where this might go?

I just got a 86 GL-10 wgn 4x4 EA82T and when I got a new rotor that fit it turned out to be the one for a non-turbo ea82. The installed distributor has a screw in cap and push on rotor and a vacuum advance with 1 hose. Is this the right one for the car or has it been swapped If swapped how would performance be affected by having the wrong distributor installed (engine currently misses badly once passed 3500 rpm)?

I swapped out my stock coil with the Accel 8140 Super Stock coil after reading (on this & other forums) how much better performance it provided. I don't know about other cars but on my 86 GL-10 EA82T Wagon it lasted about 2 miles before dying (@ 0530 on a DARK creepy country road ). I do not recommend the coil unless you want to change it out sometime soon after installing it, make sure you bring your old one with you

I just had to replace from cat back on 86 GL-10 wgn and had it done for ~$400. The pipe was just sitting in the cat, didn't even have rust to hold it on On a side note, burned some seafoam through system and smoke came out in engine compartment, looks like I also need the Y pipe & front converter though its not making any noise. That would be the entire exhaust system replaced.

My 86 GL-10 Wgn has a noticable miss/stumble @ ~3500rpm. New cap/rotor/plugs/wires installed. Any ideas? Also when I bought the rotor I was given the wrong one (with the set screw) or so I thought. It turned out that the rotor that fit (push on) was listed for a nonturbo , what would be the effect of a nonturbo distributor in a turbo engine?

Looks like I'm about 6 years too late but I would love to have that article.

Here's from Seafoam website about lenght of time to leave in oil before changing based on pre or post addition: 1. As a pre service cleaner for old oil residue, sticky rings or valve train noise, pour 1 ½ ounces of Sea Foam Motor Treatment into the engine oil crankcase for EACH quart of oil capacity, including filter. Drive a MINIMUM of 30 minutes/miles, MAXIMUM 100 miles, and then do your oil change service – Lube, Oil & Filter (LOF). This begins the process of safely/slowly re liquefying the old oil residue so contaminants may flow and be filtered. This also makes your old oil dirtier, quickly, so a LOF service is necessary when the oil gets dirty. Great for Turbocharged & Supercharged applications where oils deteriorate so quickly due to heat, and leave those residues that NEED CLEANING. 2. As an after service additive into fresh oil, nearly fresh oil, or oil (used condition) that is NOT ready to be changed (based on mileage since last oil change), put the same amount of Sea Foam Motor Treatment into the crankcase as described above, and then regularly monitor your oil for color and clarity. Set a predetermined schedule for checking the oil condition on a mileage, timed, or event basis (like every time you add fuel, etc.) to determine when an oil service is necessary. Monitoring of the oil for color and clarity will tell you when it is time to do an oil change service. NOTE: Do not exceed 3,000 miles without changing the oil.