RussellW

Thanks for your input.

I'm going to pull out trans in my 97 impreza and attempt to repair it.Is it easier to remove engine and trans as one unit,remove engine then trans or try to remove trans by itself?I've had the engine out twice and never-seized everything,so it will come out easy.Also,are bearing,bushing,synchros available for this trans.The problem started out as a gear whine when downshifting-I stopped downshifting and used brakes only.I drove it easy,gave it to my son and instructed him on how to drive it,now it has a screeching bearing sound.I want to fix this one if it is feasible,I know a used one is a gamble because of their inherent problems.Any help would be greatly appreciated.Thanks in advance!

I will try to get more details.

I'm posting this for a friend who replaced a steering pump on an 01 forester.I assume it lost its power assist.That did not make it any better,so he replaced the rack also.It still is bad,he says even worse.I'm hoping someone can tell me there is a specific bleeding procedure or maybe a collapsed line issue or something.Any help would be greatly appreciated.Thanks in advance,Rusty.

Thanks for all of the help. Rusty

I bought what I assumed to be a 97 dohc 2.5 out of a 97 gt wagon to put in 97 gt.The tensioner is of the single retaining bolt,hydraulic type which I am told is of a later model.My question is when did they change and what other concerns are there?I'm doing head gaskets,timing idlers,seals and such.Both vehicles are autos.Thanks for any input. Rusty

My friend has an 02 outback limited,2.5 5-speed.He described what sounded like torque bind and I told him to put the FWD fuse in.He did and it didn't make any difference.A few days later he said it started making a clicking noise.I went over and drove it.It sounds like a baseball card in bicycle spokes.It's much more prevalent when coasting,not accelerating.I don't know where to start.Any help would be greatly appreciated.This is a low mileage car and he has had nothing but bad luck with it.The fluid is full and looks clean.

Thanks to everyone,I'll be working on it again tomorrow.

I just went down to start flushing the cleaner out,got it up to temp and felt the bottom hose and it's staying cold.I put a new subaru thermostat in it but I think it's not opening.When I squeeze the bottom hose water comes out the rad cap without resistance,I don't think the rad is restricted,it's an aftermarket rad without top bleed screw.Should I get another thermostat or do I maybe have an air pocket on the engine side of the thermostat?Thanks for any input.

I just put my engine back in my 97 outback sport.I replaced the head gaskets,belt ,water pump,all idlers,new rad cap etc.I cleaned out water jacket while apart.I did this because it was blowing coolant out of reservoir but not over heating and not using coolant from radiator.The coolant was an awful rust color and I believe a previous owner put stop leak in it.The heater didn't blow very hot.My question is what is the cooling system bleed procedure,I think I just have air in it.It runs hot after about ten minutes on the highway.I currently have cooling system flush and water in the system and I'm getting ready to flush it.Before I tokk it apart it didn't run hot on the gauge.Any input would be appreciated.

Thank you.

I'm going to be working on a 94 Legacy 2.2,broken belt.Is this engine interference,if it is what's worst case senario-bent valves?I tried looking back through old posts and couldn't find any help.Thanks in advance.

I just purchased a 97 Outback sport,2.2 5-speed.I'm really happy with it and paid a good price for it.I'm used to the 2.5 and it's inherent qualities or lack thereof.My car only has 128,000 miles on it and runs great-I'm impressed with how it runs.It has some problems,though.The temp gauge stays right at halfway and doesn't fluctuate.I don't get adequate heat from the heater.It blows coolant out of the reservoir.I worked on this car when the previous owner had it and it was doing it then but he didn't want me to do anything.I'm looking for some ideas on this.I'm used to doing head gaskets on 2.5s and I think I'll probably do them on this.The radiator cap is not a Subaru piece and probably has original thermostat.The coolant is pretty nasty looking.I figure pulling the engine,doing a complete reseal,will be worth it.I plan on keeping this one.Also,I have what sounds like a faint bearing noise while driving,it is trans related,something makes me think input bearing-I don't know if I read something on here or not.I replaced the clutch,fork,throwout when the previous owner had it.Also,are there any effective(financially)performance upgrades for this engine?One more thing-the shifter is really sloppy-what can I do about that.Thank you for any input, Rusty

Thanks for your input,I live in Southwestern Pa.The wagon is a 98.Can you fill me in on some more popular upgrades or should I just go through old threads?I don't remember doing a timing belt on his car.I don't have it here yet....not until I sell mine.

I just wanted some thoughts on a recent purchase.It's a 97 outback sport,2.2 5-speed.A friend had it and asked him to give me first shot at it when he sold it and I got it for $2,000.00.It only has 125K on it.I replaced the clutch and fork on it for him last year.It has power windows and locks,but I don't know what else,15" alloy wheels,nice condition-green with silver.I'm getting rid of my Legacy outback wagon.It has 185K on it.I fixed some rust on driver side,it turned out pretty good,it's a nice car,I did the head gaskets,crank and cam seals,water pump and timing belt at 161K.It's loaded.I'm asking $2900.00 for it,leaving some room to negotiate.My questions are....Am I going to like the Sport?I know a lot of people on here talk highly of the 2.2,and I want a 5-speed.My wagon is auto.Also,am I doing alright with my purchase and selling prices?Thanks,Rusty

Does anybody know if pach panels are available for the rear fender lips-I have a 98 outback wagon and it's bad on the driver's side.

I ran the numbers through here before I bought it and was told they're compatible.The numbers are in my original thread.I don't what it breaks down to but was told by the yard it's from a 97 and told on here it was from a 96 and it would work.

I hope it is just a matter of the differences in the two.I wish I would have payed better attention to the internal arm when I had it apart.

I purchased a used transmission for my 98 legacy outback wagon.I'm having trouble getting the shifter linkage and transmission to cooperate.Here's what I know-the replacement tran's position switch was different than mine and damaged.In the process of removing it along with the shift lever,I over extended it and had to take the pan back off and put the detent lever back in place.I noticed that the internal detent arm was different but didn't think any more about it.Both shift levers,placed side by side were different but the pin for the switch and the pin for the shift cable look to be positioned the same.I could weld the broken shift arm back together and clean it up but I don't think that is the problem.I think I need to drop the pan and change the internal detent arm to go along with my shifter.To get the trans in reverse,it's between reverse and park on the shifter and I can hear the parking pawl when backing.When trans is in drive shifter is in neutral.This is not a matter of just adjusting the cable.My original trans number is TZ102Z2DBA-KF,the replacement trans is TZ102Z2CBA-DT.Any help is greatly appreciated.Thanks in advance.

Can somebody tell me the valve clearance spec for an 02 2.5 RS-sohc?Are the torque sequence and specifications the same as a phase I 2.5 dohc?Thankls in advance.

Where did you get an estimate for 2K?I did my own and had between 4&5 hundred in them.That is with quality machine work.I'll do the job for you for $750.00.I live in Washington,PA.Call me crazy,but I like these engines.

I talked my friend into buying an 02 RS,because I thought it would be a good car for him.I have a 98 lego wagon,knowing the head gasket problems with those models,I wanted to find him an outback sport-good luck finding one that someone is selling.Through reading on this message board,I don't think I did him any justice,the head gaskets are leaking,there is a black colored crud in the cooling system,the previous owner said he replaced the engine not too long ago,I don't know if it was because of gaskets or bearings,because I learned here there is now an issue with bearings.I guess my questions are do I replace the gaskets and check the heads out?Could bearing failure be prevented?Should I put an oil pressure gauge in it?I've done a few older head gaskets on the DOHC 2.5,how different is the newer SOHC 2.5.I think the previos owner said he also put in the cooling system supplement.Do I need to do that again?Is that the black colored substance or is it combustion byproducts?This car also seems to have what sounds like a transmission bearing noise,it is a manual and the noise is present when driving,not when the clutch is depressed.Maybe an input shaft bearing?It may be valvetrain noise but I don't think so.Is the valvetrain adjustment the same as the DOHC -with shims?Any advice would be appreciated.Thanks in advance.

thanks for the info,I can pick this thing up for $400.00,it supposedly only has 83K on it.

I've been looking for a used trans for my lego wagon which has a TZ102Z2 DBA.I found one with the number TZ102Z2 CBA.Can someone tell me what might be different about it?I posted questions regarding this a while back but cannot locate them.Thanks in advance.

If you decide to tap the hole for an insert,liberally coat the tap with grease,this will reduce the amount of foreign particles going into the cylinder,they will adhere to the grease.The proper way is to remove the head but I've done a few successfully without pulling the heads.Lots of luck.