gratefuldude

oooo, good thought. flushing the radiator out may do the trick i had a similar problem on a trip from rochester to ithaca ny. got to my hotel, flushed the radiator in the bath tub, and my problem went away.

been thinking about this too........

Im up in the Adirondack mountains in New York: everything is rotted! Im a welder/fabricator by trade: if you chop up some paneling, ill gladly purchase

im coming from the school of thought that: all of our cars do this. there has got to be someone out there who has a handle on how to repair the issue the right way: sheet metal. if not, someone could get into it, and make a ton of money, im sure.

my vote is with nipper. drive it out. if it persists after a week or 2, then more trouble shooting. it very well could be a dust shield got slightly bent, and is rubbing(happened to me) i always notice a noise that you describe, under the situation you have described, but it goes away after a hundred or so miles

I have been searching in the forums, and I am not finding an answer to a question that myself, and i am sure many others are wondering: our cars rot in the rear wheel wells/quarters. I despise bondo. SO! I have searched the internet far and wide, but come up empty. Where do we find good sheet metal replacements for this very common issue? I am into VWs as well, and I can source just about anything sheet metal wise to repair the rot on those. Soobys...not so much. Anyone got any ideas? for reference: i have a 97 impreza obs

stupid question: are the radiator fans turning on?

UPDATE! So: I grabbed a "new" to me MAF from a buddy, car fired right up. drove 40 or so miles: CEL went out, car runs mint. damn MAFs. Thanks for the help guys peanut butter jelly time

indeed dude. im going to try to borrow one today, ill keep ya posted

1 inch tube is on lol the p0103 comes back on within 5 seconds of starting car

fuel to water ratio is 1:0 lol pins are good, i went through and put dielectric grease on most the connections today as well

ill give $6.37

update: i went out and cleaned the idle stabilizer/control valve. didnt solve anything. double checked all vacuum fittings, wiring, grounds....all good.

sooo, hey guys! hows everyone doin? well, heres my pickle. I live within walking distance of everything i do, so i rarely drive, and put gas in my car. drove yesterday, noticed it was sputtering, and i was WAY below E. Sputtered so bad, i mustve been on fumes when i pulled into the gas station. so i stuck 4 gallons into it. started up, ran like crap, and barely made it home. so, today, i decided to check the fuel filter. dirty gas. checked the plugs, way bad. new filter, a clear one(gas is also clear now too), and new plugs installed. barely runs still. made it to an advance auto, scanned it: P0103. bought some MAF cleaner, cleaned it out(it appears to be 100% intact), reset engine....still the same deal. car runs alot better with MAF unplugged. I have checked for vacuum leaks, i have none. Took fuel lines off, to check if im getting fuel, and i am getting ample amounts. i got spark everywhere. is this a MAF issue, or something else?

on the brakes gary, im riding on wider 16s in the summer. stock steel wheels(with original hubcaps! lol) in the winter. so, naturally i would need to clear for winter wheels.....i live in the ADK mtns.....we get ALOT of snow...snow that likes to clog my wheels haha

on the brakes gary, im riding on wider 16s in the summer. stock steel wheels(with original hubcaps! lol) in the winter. so, naturally i would need to clear for winter wheels.....i live in the ADK mtns.....we get ALOT of snow...snow that likes to clog my wheels haha

this is what im talkin about! i dont need fast, or the WOW factor. i just want tighter turns, and a tiny more pep at higher rpms. i did just replace the struts with new KYB gas ones...still riding on stock springs though when you say sway bar....are you talking strut tower bars? i have lower sway bars front and rear on my car...perhaps there is a larger diameter, and i have the base model diameter? an upgrade to poly bushings/mounts is in the works. just trying to figure out where to grab em....as in...who doesnt sell overpriced crap

well: what i did was what the instructions i posted said. realized, that was a waste of time, as they are instructions for a car that isnt like mine. so! there are 2 sweet spots in the tps. if you are installing one, the common thing to do is to line the spring in the tps up with the throttle "pin", then set idle. well: that is incorrect. put in tps, leave screws semi loose. turn tps all the way to the left. start to turn clockwise, slowly!, the idle will relax to where you want it. do not stop there! keep turning. idle goes up again. then smooths out. right when the idle is mint for the second time, tighten screws. not much of a tech write up: but i drove 80 miles( i live in the mountains) of interesting conditions...no issues, light went out on its own.

i was thinking about upgrading the front discs to the larger ones....what would i need? id assume just the carriers and calipers/rotors? also, thinking about rippin the rear discs off of a legacy...direct fit?

alright...i got a 97 impreza outback, 114k. just did KYB struts all around, and installed a new clutch. also did some other repairs, but those 2 up there....not doing again for awhile! the car is "single" owner. well maintained its entire life(was my dads till i just bought it after wrecking my 97) anyways im looking for some smart mods: as in, i want to handle a little better. id like a bit more HP as well. im not one of those "lower it and KN it" kind of guys(backyard tuners) however, i would like to lower it, a tiny bit. I would like more chassis support in the front and the rear. on the HP front, is there a different style cam i can put it? crank? whats a good thing to get medium gains all around? would love to hear some ideas, see what others have done. ive played with the search function some, but would love to hear what someone else would do to a 100% untouched car

well, i figured it out, it was complete idiocy on my part. thanks for the help guys

well, apprently im not checking the right pins on the ECU plug. i cant find the proper diagram for my plug. i did the adjustments by hand, yeah. i had it sounding pretty darn good, but it loves to crap out when the pedal is bearly being pushed, like at a cruising speed. maybe i set it too low to begin with?

well, with ecu plugged in, im reading at 5V, everywhere. no matter where i move the sensor. with ECU unplugged, i read 0.00, everywhere. im taking my reading from the red wire and the black wire. what am i missing?!?!?!?!

ive been looking around, i found this, the only thing odd to me is the removal of the ECU: The manual says: 1. Loosen TPS holding screws. When using a voltage meter. 2. Take out ECM. 3. Turn ignition switch to ON. 4. Adjust TPS to the proper position to allow the voltage signal to ECM to be in spec. Measure across terminals No. 15 and No. 17 in connector B136. Voltage should read between .45-.55V fully closed. 5. Tighten TPS holding screws. Torque 1.6ft/lb -+ .1 ft/lb.

Hey now, for the past few weeks my CEL was on. Car idled @ 1400 rpm, so i checked it. threw a p0122, tps circuit low so, i pulled out the old one, cleaned it, and put it back in. went well for 300 miles, then this happened: while at a steady speed, the throttle DROPS out. takes a couple stabs at the pedal to get throttle speeds again. this is happening alot. so, i bought a new TPS, installed it. same issue, seems to be worse. Is there a guide to installing the TPS somewhere? all i did was make sure the spring inside the sensor was connected to the throttle body with little tension at idle. any input would be great, as i can no longer drive my car more then a minute or 2. -steve