gratefuldude
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Everything posted by gratefuldude
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so, got this legacy outback 2.5ltr..... needs headgaskets........... rip off passenger head, all good.....thinking to myself, this doesnt seem right.... rip off driver side head: both cams are completely shot, something mustve gotten inside the runners...... well, upon close investigation: it would appear someone put sand in the oil filler tube!!!!!!!!!!! so, both heads are off, one needs replacement for sure. tomorrow im dropping the oil pan.......im a scared little man ahhh 92 dollar outback with a MINT chassis......how I LOVE YOU! makes sense that the car ran great, and when the PO got out for 2 hours, and got back in it died on him after 3 miles.
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BIG UPDATE!!!!! I sourced a parts car 5 hours away!!!!!!!! it runs and drives but the body is toast. (was a friends) Im picking it up tuesday. hopefully it makes the drive from new paltz to rochester.......fingers crossed!!!!!! in this, ill get a good motor, shocks. and for my dads car: a hood, exhaust, headlights and for my legacy: TIRES!!!!!!!! OH YEAH! just had to share, im stokin over here!
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not sure what im going to do. my pops has the same car as me, which got into a front end fender bender, he needs alot of parts. we may just splice the 2 cars and make a real solid one. idk, pretty confused right now. ive got a 98 i just did a ton of work to, dont know if i want to do it all over again with my 97
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alright, got an update: This morning i decided id let it overheat in my driveway, the problem occurs so much i figured it would(overheating everywhere i go now) i heard a very small rattle sound. car did not over heat, but BOTH fans came on. im thinking my car: 1: thinks AC is on somewhere in the wiring(would also lead to why i now idle at a higher RPM) 2: radiator seemed rather cold for it to heat up to the point of requiring fans to be on. I went ahead and ordered a waterpump and timing belt. ill get em weds. also: fins on radiator are pretty solid. at least they were when i flushed its rump roast in feb. I am also pretty confident that the waterpump and timing belt are original to the car. PO put highway miles on it, and never needed to do maintenence(according to them, makes sense though because ive done ZERO work to it other then a clutch the week i bought it over a yr ago)
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thanks for the replies guys. i like the idea of exhaust gas in coolant. ill see if i cant check that today. air pockets, im not too sure there are any, im usually pretty good at cycling the coolant properly, but maybe there are a few or one, ill check that out also. will check back in soon, thanks for the advice guys!
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well, Ive done some searching and i am finding nothing, here goes! In September car overheated on a 200 mile drive. figured thermostat, replaced in a diner parking lot. the last 25 miles of trip the temp gauge was going up and down. it was replaced with an after market thermostat. In February, on a 130 mile drive, over heated again, this time, pretty much ran hot as hell for the final 3 miles, and leading up to it the gauge was fluctuating between 1/2 and 15/16 of the way up. So, i flushed the radiator, (felt the lower coolant hose, and it was cold compared to the rest of the system, as was that side of the radiator.) in the hotels bathroom. Seemed to be OK on the drive back. Now, on a 15 mile drive, same thing happened. In an effort to eliminate the thermostat as the issue, i am now driving without one. (do not see any real stop go traffic) Same things occurs. I am noticing with higher RPM, engine cools down. I am also noticing, my heat sucks! even when my temp gauge is 3/4 of the way up. I am not leaking coolant. There is no "foam" in the oil cap. No coolant in the oil. Coolant levels are fine. Any ideas? I am supposed to drive 600 miles 1 way in 3 weeks, so im struggling pretty hard here.
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hey there, you may have seen my previous thread on the cooling system of my 97 impreza....well! I have a 98 legacy outback too!!!! i started the head gasket swap today. aside from snapping 4 exhaust studs(i used a torch too! the buggers!) motor is pulled fine. while she is off, am i right to assume 1: replace timing belt 2: replace water pump 3:replace those dang studs 4: replace t-stat 5........................ why i'm here. what else should i be doing while the motor is out? also, while ordering parts in bulk, what is the site most recommended by the gurus? as in low budget quality parts
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well, she does have 201k on it.... so, 1: put it up in the air. 2: remove rad cap. 3: remove vent cover from coolant resevoir? or is there another one? im a wee confused lol 4: let car run from cold to warm. add coolant? 5: am i confused or spot on? I have a 98 legacy outback im doing the head gaskets on tomorrow. my 97 is my main car though! i hear coolant flow behind my dash. had the car a year or so, and have always heard that...is it common, or could this be an indication or air?
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hello everybody! im a VW to soob convert. so bear with me:lol: Alright. heres the issues: in september: Drove 180 miles. on the trip, the temp gauge shot up. all the way. I replaced the thermostat in a parking lot of a diner. flushed out old coolant, put in new coolant. drove 180 back home, no issues whatsoever. This past weekend: 120 miles, on the trip, coolant temp gauge shot all the way up again. In the hotel parking lot, i popped the hood, coolant everywhere. (from res, spilling out) i removed the radiator, draining all coolant into the hotel ice buckets. Flushed the radiator in the bathtub. I noticed the coolant had oil spotting, and was a darker green. Thought nothing of it at the time. figured i didnt get all the old crap out. added water to balance it all out. On the return 120 mile trip home, 8 miles in the gauge shot up. I turned the heat on. the gauge balanced out at 3/4 of the way up, stayed put. Got home: Inspected the oil cap: some light h2o condensation on the top, but not the foamy milky stuff. oil level is a little low, maybe 1/4 quart. im not noticing any major coolant loss, not seeing any leaks. but i do notice the occasional coolant smell. Do i have the beginnings of failed HG?
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ill check for power in settings 1-3 at the motor tomorrow, good idea if power not there, then most likely its the resistor...hence ill need a need a new hvac control. things that didnt bother me about the car in the summer.....bother me now LOL had to hook all the metal cables up to the vent control stations, that was a pain.
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yeah, works great. It really looked like someone got angry with the original owner, took some dykes to the wires, snip snip...no more rear power. Had to remove all the inside plastic trim from center roof through passenger side wheel well. pulled wires back through, snipped em, and put butt connectors on ran em back up, crimped the wiring. slid boot back into place, and bingo.