Gravel X-Press

Hey all, Not sure how many of you are on NASIOC, but I've started the idea of getting a little meet together at Bear Mountain, NY on 10/10 at noon at the main parking lot by the ice rink. Anyone's invited. I'm pretty sure that entry/parking is $7. There's also an Oktoberfest event going on at the same time, along with a VW meet. So, there should be lots of things going on with no shortage of entertainment and people to talk to. The more the merrier, come out!!!

Everything I've read says that these parts are a weak point. But I did find one post that said just replacing the wiring fixed the issue. I've already checked the connection behind the driver's side back seat. There is no corrosion (dust, yes. corrosion, no). I disconnected the sending unit and watched the fuel guage go to "E," then reconnected and watched the guage go back to "F." My fuel guage does go batty at about 1/2 tank (jumps around, etc.), just like most other people that have suffered/reported this failure. When the tank is filled, the CEL goes out after 6 engine cycles (the approximate time that it takes to reset a code like this--fuel sensor and/or EVAP codes). Now, if you can tell me where the connection is on the other end (i.e. the end not behind the rear seat), I would greatly appreciate it! Or how to further diagnose this issue prior to flushing my money, that would be great! Should I try replacing the wire from the sending unit forward, first?

Hi All, So, today my check engine light on my '97 OBS came on and threw a P0463 code. So, I want to replace the driver's side fuel level sending unit. Autozone doesn't have it. They don't even have the fuel pump assembly with the passenge side fuel sending unit. I've been searching the internet like a madman, but I can't find anyone that sells it. Is this a dealer only thing? Any help would be appreciated.

I'll give you an AHMEN in that one! I'm in law school, so I totally understand the "student's budget." Which is before battery replacement, I would recommend cleaning ALL the battery cables, because the car cranked FINE shortly after the "no cranking and jumpy tach" issue. Honestly, this sounds like a textbook grounding issue.

BGambino, I finally figured out exactly how to describe what that noise is on downshift. The sound is almost exactly like the sound that the A/C compressor makes when engaging/disengaging. It's not a grind and isn't getting worse. Thank you for the advice about your previous subi's and my downshift click, I'll rest easier with your input about the sound, now. I'm also encouraged by the AWD system, because I can hear the AWD quietly purring to itself during tight turns and it is very quite on the road. I've narrowed the sound of the "dieselish," "clackety" sound to the front, near the main drive pulley. I'm now a little frightened of a bent crank shaft (how rare would that be?!?!), because the drive pulley has a slight wobble (and by slight, I mean a 0.5 mm wobble) that appears to be coincident with the speed/sound of the "diesel clacking." I'll have a subi-experienced mechanic look at it to give his input and talk about the timing belt/water pump.

This sounds like a very typical grounding issue. If you live in an area that salts its roads or near the ocean, then more than likely you need to check the ground connections (both on the battery and at the other ends!). Also, as temperatures drop, your battery will lose cranking amps (colder temperatures mean the chemical reactions in the battery take place more slowly and any age-related deficiencies are exposed). If you live in an area that is getting colder about now and your battery is older (over 4 years), then you should really consider replacing the battery. So, at this point, I would suggest a battery cable kit or at least an opening and "freshening" of all major battery cable connections and a new battery. Good Luck!

Scoobywagon, Thank you for your input. I know the car had a new muffler put in, but not a more aggressive exhaust than that. It doesn't sound like a valve tap or knocking (both of which I am familiar with), but I've never heard piston slap, so I don't know if it's that or not. The humming is really odd to me. It's not a rattle (like loose clips) and it resonates at a high, loud and constant pitch when the engine is idling. I'm going to open the airbox this weekend to see if the air intake is clogged or something is making a reed instrument out of the intake. The click comes from the front on downshift. It is either mechanical or it's a VERY heavy duty relay. it doesn't sound like a loose motor mount or transmission mount (it's lighter than either of those sounds). It's hard to describe. Could it be the AWD disengaging, or similar to the sound that is made when one is making tight turns in the parking lot? (although my subi doesn't even make that sound in parking lots). Thanks for the warm greeting, too. I used to be an avid member of TUNFS-"The Ultimate Nissan Frontier Site" or "The Unofficial Nissan Frontier Site." I can't wait to get acquainted with the "characters" here and become one myself!

Hi All, I just bought my first Subie, so I'm full of questions. I'll try to keep it to the big ones and you can add advice that you would like to impart. I bought a '97 Impreza Outback, which is a 5speed, 2.2L and has 102,000 miles. It appears to have visited a mechanic on a regular basis. What I know/don't know. I know the timing belt and water pump needs to be monitored for replacement starting about 60,000 miles. But, I don't know if it's been done. I know older Subies are known for being "less refined" than what I might be accustomed to (my '06 Honda Civic). So here are my observations, feel free to tell me if these are normal or cause for concern. 1) The engine sounds a little "dieselish" or "clickety." It sounds more like older Porsche engines sounded. It sounds slightly louder on the passenger side than the driver's. 2) My intake hums. This one was totally unexpected. There is a constant humming coming from the air box on the passenger side. But, it's not audible from inside the car, only with the hood open. 3) I've noticed a slight "tap/click" at first when I downshift (for example from 5th to 3rd), but when I downshift a second time (from 3rd to 2nd), there is no second tap. Other than that, there is every indication that this is a well-loved car. I'm considering taking it to Broadway Automotive (here in North Jersey) to ask them to drive it and put an experienced ear to the car. Thanks for any input/advice!

Hi All, I just bought my first Subie yesterday! I picked up a '97 Impreza Outback Sport with 102,000 miles. It appears to be well-maintained except for some rust on the rear rocker panels (common, from what I understand). I can't wait to become well acquainted with this subie and y'all on the board.