man on the moon

The clutch I have is for a front wheel 1.8L. I know the 1.8 and 2.2L will mate together, not sure if the 1.6 and 1.8 front wheels will fit. If anyone here knows, or if I send you the part number (it's in the back of my car right now--I can find it tomorrow) and it matches I'd be happy to match that price and get the thing off my hands.

The clutch on these cars is fairly simple and straight forward if you have a set of wrenches. And...I actually have a clutch kit I could send you, maybe. The FWD only cars have a smaller clutch than the 4wd cars. Mine is 4wd, the place I got mine from sent me the wrong one before they sent me the right one and I haven't gotten around to returning it yet. Find out if your car can use it, and I'll be happy to ship it for somewhat less than the store would sell it to you for. Includes the clutch plate, pressure plate, pilot bearing, and throwout bearing as well as a clutch alignment tool. The process is fairly simple: 1. Undo the fuel and heater lines (literally on top of the engine) after draining the water. 2. Undo the wiring harness that feeds the engine wiring 3. Remove the starter (also at the top). 4. Undo the bolts/nuts holding the engine and transmission together. Lift a couple inches via the transmission and slide the engine forward (easiest with a pair of jacks like what you might use to change a tire). 5. Remove the pressure plate, swap the clutch plate, replace or swap out the pressure plate. 6. Slide the engine back onto the transmission and bolt together. Lower back onto the mounts. 7. Replace/reconnect the starter, heater hoses, gas lines, and electric harness bits you undid. 8. Refill the coolant. 9. Drive.

I should hasten to add that the computer is currently giving me no codes, just the quick six 'all clear'. At the McDs the other day (the one I rolled into when it died) it flashed me 14 which has to do with injector output, but I have not been able to get it to do that again since we put gas in the tank. It did flash 21 (water temp sensor) when I unplugged the sensor to test/clean it, but that cleared when I plugged it back in. Other than that only six quick 'all clear's. Also: upon closer inspection of the Chilton's and a solid amount of time comparing diagrams, it would appear the MAF on my Loyale is at least the same size/shape/number of pins as the 87-89 models. There is no diagram specific to the Loyale, and 'SA' is listed in the diagrams as being for MPFI, which I do not have. If the MAF sensors are, in fact, identical, the terminals are: A--emtpy B--R (Battery +) C--B (Ground) D--W (Signal) which would mean my sensor is well within spec, terminal C reading only 2 ohms, and spec being "fewer than 10".

I will put my current frustration and question at the top here, and the story/details below. If you don't want to do a lot of reading, everything I am curious about is in the first two paragraphs, the details follow below the dashed-line: So I have decided that my Loyale is out to f******* with my mind in every way possible. I can do all the optional repairs, and preventive repairs I want, and work on them as long or short as I wish. I can research and read and get everything perfect and the car running well...and she will choose something I didn't even come close to touching to stump me with. Current case in point: I was driving home from a transmission swap (yes, driving! I was pretty damn proud ) the car died and won't do more than cough now and again when I crank it now. I suspect it may be the MAF sensor (more details and story follow)...if so, I am uncertain as to how to go about replacing the harness side terminal??? Or just what the deal is? It threw me Ohms that were well outside the specs Chilton's recommends. Can I hotwire this sensor somehow to drive it to work for a few days and get to the junkyard/parts store? I work six days a week so it may be a bit before I can get a proper part. Why would it start and run fine, then suddenly fail catastrophically while driving and work only sporadically after that? Ok, story/detail time if you want or need them: -------------------------------------------------------------------- On the way home from putting in the new d/r and axles, the car sputtered, coughed, and died. Gas was low but not empty. Cranked. Injector wasn't firing. Put gas in. Injector fired for a couple seconds, but might have had too much water, put the air intake back on. We tried cranking for a while to clear the line and it coughed a few times but always cut out immediately. So I had it towed home thinking I may have air or water in the line, and would just wait until it settled out. Come today. Put Gumout in the tank and walked back and forth to the gas station enough to get just shy of half a tank by the gauge. Nothing. Cranked and cranked. Nothing. Cranked. Engine caught once but died. Cranked some more, but nothing came of it. At that time I checked the timing belts, I checked the marks (three dashes/cam dots). If they are off it's by half a tooth or less, and should at least TRY to start. So I cranked again, this time watching the throttle body, and the injector isn't even firing! So I turned to trusty USMB search function. Whatsmore, I followed it's advice and checked my various sensors: ECT sensor: the sensor reads 3-4k Ohms (Chiltons says it should be 3k). MAF sensor: the book says "BR terminal" to ground should read under 10 ohms. I am not sure which terminal is which (they are labeled A/B/C/D) so I measured all four on the harness side: ---'A' is empty ---'B' reads 18 ohms ---'C' reads 2 ohms or so ---'D' gives no reading, not sure why. The book says on an 87-89 SPFI the terminal in question is 'B', which would mean I have an MAF problem if the two are teh same...but I have no idea. Other notes of interest: I can get the injector to fire if I hotwire it, but it won't fire when we crank the engine (and yes, it is plugged in). Or if it is firing, it's sporadic enough to do no good. I cleaned out the ECT and MAF sensors (MAF was a little dirty, but it cleaned up with just a squirt of spray). Nothing... The battery is low enough it doesn't want to start with starter fluid, but I can fix that. Can the MAF really keep the car from starting? And if so, can I hotwire it somehow to get it running long enough to get to the junkyard/back and forth to work for a few days?

Hey! That sounds like me! Street parking repairs except for the head gaskets (at a friend's apartment with a parking lot) and the clutch/dr 5-speed (a friend with a rental house and driveway). I get music stuck in my head a lot, though. I think the last song was certain one about being well endowed (link below). I jammed a roll pin trying to get it out and spent an entire day cursing at the d*amn thing, and that song cheered me up. (NSFW):

Some axle replacement sets will come with a roll pin, check the details on the one you are planning to purchase.

I did like that one, but it didn't cover everything! I'll keep it in mind. I'll start working on something in Word, not going to kill myself over it, but should have a decent starting point in a week or two--feel free to add/suggest anything in the meanwhile.

The problem I had trying to find the information is not that I didn't search--it's that my searches turned up so MUCH information that it took me rather a long time to sort through it. I looked at the USRM (the 25/23 spline thingy was NOT my question--that is a turbo/naturally aspirated difference; not a manual/automatic difference). I did simple searches with a variety of terms. I did complex searches. I used the google ['search term' site: http://www.domain.com] function for this site. I used google in general. I looked at parts stores and junkyards online...I found a lot of information, just not the *one* fact that I was looking for. And I found a lot of information more than once. The answer to my specific question was not at all easy to find--I suspected it existed somewhere, but it was just not forthcoming. The search function brought up threads but I can only see titles, not posts of interest [i noticed tonight I can request returns by posts, but it is too late now for last night's search]. While hunting for the answer I noticed what you said about most questions being asked many times--just not the question I was hunting for. Whether that is a fault of my search skills, or simply too much information being returned I don't know, but it did make me think there has to be a better way to do it than making everyone answer the same questions over and over. And over. I did find the transmission wiring diagrams very quickly, btw, there is a reason I didn't bring that up again Oh, also...the reason I asked about the punch to start with is I discovered the search function doesn't work when I am signed in via my phone. Not sure why--you can enter a search term but it just goes back to the main usmb page when you hit 'go'. An FAQ page would also allow google to index it and non-members to read it, whereas the search function requires you to be at the site and signed in (no searching if you are logged out). Anyway, not yelling--sorry if I sound angry, just laying out my reasoning a bit more thoroughly.

In hunting (for rather a long time) for an axle question I posed in another thread, I came across plenty of other questions about axles and transmissions, many more than once. Some related to my question, some related to other things. Thank you EA81EA for digging up the thread that finally nailed the coffin shut. But that aside, I must beg the question of whether putting together an axle FAQ thread/post would be worth my time and trouble? I don't know all the answers, but I figure if they can all be put together with what answers can be dug up and stickied in the USRM...anyway, if it seems like something useful I'll put my mind to it in a week or two after this tranny swap is done. Oh, and if I never EVER have to swap a transmission again it will be too soon (and that's not counting the axle roll pins--I think it has to do with the fact the transmission weighs more than I do and fits in a smaller space than I???). I'll take the engine out every day of the week before I screw around with putting in another transmission.

Bah, between the google and the forum search function I was looking for something like that. All night...read a few similar things but not that one, that's the answer I'm looking for. In reading around it seems there are a lot of common and a few less-common questions about axles, why isn't there an axle FAQ thread? Perhaps I'll put the questions together, and what seem to be answers and put it up for editing and later stickying??? Would this be at all useful to anyone else? (If nothing else than to save finger skin from repeating answers).

The tool lecture is well deserved, and I have now invested in a punch set. (I did get the screwdriver back, btw, the drill bit worked! Beer on me). Anyone else have input on the axle question? Everything I've found suggests auto and manuals use the same axle...I don't want to make a purchase and mess with returns, though .

Things look ok to go--ordering a new pair of axles today/tomorrow (I'd rather not replace just one) and a new main seal for the rear--the new one I had was torn either in the package or as I installed it. Glad I caught it . Auto Zone ordered a new one that should be here in a few days. Just a couple dumb questions: 1--the AutoZone lookup thingy specified axle assemblies for automatic...is there a difference between at and mt? I can't see a difference, but I'm not in the mood to find out the hard way and a quick internet/forum search hasn't given me any satisfactory information either way. 2--The wiring plug harness thingys on the push button are square, and there are two. On the d/r there is one, and it is round. The wire colors are the same or close, can I just splice the matching wires together? I can get the d/r car side harness from the junkyard assuming the donor is still there. In the meanwhile I just have to make sure not to go in reverse . I can start the car at the starter if the neutral safety switch is an issue.

This is good to know, I will leave it on the stands until I am done. In other news, there is no way I an getting that pin out. Ran to auto zone for another rear main seal (the first new one tore when I put it in) and found out they have good price reman axles, so I will do that instead and just give the junkyard my gift of a transmission with one axle hanging off.

Take that universe! The transmission with both axles attached is on the ground. Now to raise the car enough to slide it out and the new one in, oh, and put the engine back in place. I think this deserves a beer, thank you for the tip on bfh and able nuts. If you guys weRe closer id get everyone beer. Edit: quick question. If I end up not getting the axles off, can I drive with great wheel only/4wd? Enough to get to a shop to have them get the axles off?

Ok, got the axle nut off on the jammed pin side. Axle is solidly in there, anything else I need to take off, our just be persuasive? I dont really want to go the doj route if I can help it, sounds messy. edit: neve mind, got it. Phone is typing funny, sorry for any oddness. Think I will wash the cover/case when im done

Will I need to undo the brakes at all, or just get the axle nut off?

I will try that in the morning. How hard is it to get the axle out of the wheel assembly? The book makes it sounds like going to the moon then if I can't get it I'll call AAA.

Only hammering, not drilling? Im skeptical

Sorry for serial posting, I think this is what I will do. get the motor secure or out. Put enough bolts to hold the transmission in place for a ride on a truck. Ask a shop to separate the wheels from the axles, and drop the tranny if they need to/can't get the pin out (tried the other one with a real punch, no dice). Then I'll pick it up andfinish the job another day. Looking at what I would need top get the wheels undone, I don't have the tools unless someone knows better. I work tomorrow, but may end up sick

So maybe it's not my fault! Entirely...of you are right I will be adding that to the stupid sh*t the po did thread

Back=bevel. On my phone. I'm thinking bolt cutters, cut the shaft of the screw driver off, put it together, drive to a shop? Can I even drive like this? Don't see small punches, but bent a fe w allen wrenches! With a light I can see that the point of the screw driver is clear through the shaft, about to poke through the other side (the allen wrench didn't go too deep so I peeked inside). I don't think im getting anywhere with what I have. Can I take the axles off the wheels and drop it that way, actually?

The back is good, more likely the screw driver point flared the pin. Got some punches and stuff, we'll see!

Lectures are ok at times, just wish there was a quick fix

It is probably 3/8 inch out, yeah. Same tool I used at the junkyard to get the 'new' transmission. I'll walk to a store and see what I can find. If I can get the punch out I can drive until I find another time to work on it, otherwise im done for a while

Mine does a similar thing if the ground is funny. I check it by using my jumper cables to ground the battery to the motor, and it will start then if that is the issue. Don't touch the hot post. if that fixes it, just clean and tighten the ground front the starter writing harness. If not, I guess check the next thing!