DanMac
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Posts posted by DanMac
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DO NOT repack sealed bearings. They do take *very* little grease. This is by design as they do not exchange grease with a larger bearing cavity. The grease needs airspace to expand as it warms to it's dropping point. If you pack them solid the grease will simply overheat, cook itself, and fail - contaminating the bearing and causing premature failure. Also - unless you first flush them very well with solvent, wash them with soap and water, and regrease them you have no idea if the grease used by the manufacturere is compatible with the grease you are packing them with. The result could be anything from the grease losing it's lubrication properties, never dropping at all, to just turning to plastic.
Greenly - YES - apply grease to the outside of the bearings and the lip seals. If the lip seals do not have lubrication they will fail in short order. I put the normal amount of grease between the bearings as well. This just serves to trap particulates and moisture that gets past the seals and also keeps the bearing pockets from corroding.
GD
I STRONGLY disagree with that. Use an o-ring pick and carefully remove the covers, clean them thoroughly as you would with any other bearing before packing, then pack them as any other bearing, replace the covers and your bearing is set for a much longer life than the original. Done it many, many times and never had to replace one again after that.
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I exploded two 5 spds in my turbo baja before doing a 6 spd swap. Money well spent!
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is it really that bad....
I tried something similar to this one time when I was a kid. . . It broke after a few hundred miles while I was making a left turn at an intersection. I had just been racing down the cliffs along the ocean on hwy 1 in SoCal before it broke too. Made me realize that steering is kinda important and not worth taking any chances. Trust me when I say this WILL break!
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My 04 monster turbo baja gets 16 in town and 24 hwy. City milage would probably improve if I installed some better injectors instead of the Perrin modified ones I'm running now(stock injectors with the ends shaved down for more flow). My 01 2.5 rs averaged 24, 86 4x hatch got 26 which is the same as I'm getting with my 84 brat now. It's been along time but I seem to remember about 40 mpg with my 70 ff1 wagon with the 1100cc motor.
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I've been riding an 05 Yamaha fjr1300 since new but have been looking at new Kawasaki Concourse 14's pretty hard. I've let the wife talk me out of buying it for now but don't know how much longer that will last.
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If it was in the motor it has already gone through the exhaust or, more likely, was simply blown out the vacant spark plug hole. Either way, I'd still pull the head to be able to do the repair corectly and not drop tap shavings into the cylinder.
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Pulled the cluster today (not to bad of a job at all) and found all bulbs to be good but bad connections where they twist in. Bent the contacts up a little, reinstalled, and wuttaya know, lights again! found this same problem with my 4wd and lo indicator lights as well when I thought for sure I had a bad switch on the trans. Glad I checked that while it was apart. The speedo cable was a cinch. Just have to remove the lower kick panel and reach in from under the dash.
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I had a 1970 ff1 with the first ea motor (1100 cc) when I was 18 and ALWAYS drove it like I stole it and was making my get away. It had over 250,000 miles on it and aside from a little smoke, ran very well when I dumped it. I say run quality oil, change it often and drive it like you're mad at it! It'll take it and you're combustion chambers will be much cleaner for it.
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All sygnals work fine, just no indicators for either direction. Can't imagine both bulbs burning out and nothing else. I guess the cluster is gonna have to come out to figure it out.
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I just puchased my first brat (an 84 with the ea81) and the turn signal indicators don't work. Anyone have any suggestions on where to start looking for the problem first? I am also wondering if this is a hydraulic or solid lifter motor as my book says both.
DanMac
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It's been showing up on craigslist for $2,000 obo on and off for awhile now.
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Nice project! I had a 70 ff1 wagon with the 1100 in it that I bought for 100 bucks back in the early 80's. It took all the abuse an 18 year old kid could throw at it and still ran and drove pretty good with about 250,000 miles on it when I traded it off.
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I have been running meth in my baja with an avo500 turbo for some time now but it's only as a precaution so it was tuned with 30/70 meth/water (windshield washer solution) and you don't see a spike in hp on the dyno when it goes active at 12 pounds of boost. I don't think I'd run any more than that and only with the smallest jet supplied with the kit without tuning for it.
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I drilled some 15" 6 lug yota rims and had some used 235-75-R15 mounted on them. about 150 bucks on CL
Do the two holes line up perfect on those or do they have to be slotted?
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Hi, I,m DanMac(or just Dan)and am new to USMB. I have owned Subarus ever since puchasing and completely abusing my 1st one at age 18. It was a 1970 ff1 with the 1st gen pancake 4 in an 1100cc. Since then I've had a 78 4x DL wagon, an 86 GL 4x hatch, an 01 2.5 RS coupe, and currently a monster turbo baja with a 6 spd and set up to make over 500hp(best dyno run tuned on pump gas and only 70% methonol in the injection was 383whp or approx 450 crank hp).This has been my baby and after puchasing it new,spent about another $12,000 on it to make it what it is today. This car has waaay to much done to list here and still only has 34,000 miles on it(and is for sale to the right buyer I might ad) and last but not least, I just bought my 1st Brat and am in the middle of putting a 3k Warn winch on it. I am looking forward to meeting some of the people here, especially from the Pacific NW.
Great day to all here,
DanMac
Sealed wheel bearing question
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
You're a good sport GD. Have a great night.