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Thanks for all the tips. The car: 1988 SPFI S/R PT4WD 5spd Wagon, White, 221k. I found another older post that details the process of going RWD. Front outer axle boots both torn/mostly gone, a little clicking but not too bad. Don't know if they are original, but I'd guess they are. Spent all it's life in SoCal then PNW so rubber was in good shape until I moved to the desert. I have decided to find some junked axles, pull off the outer part needed to keep the wheels on, then pull my axles clean/reboot/regrease them. That way I can always put them back in if I want to. I'll post results when it's done. Off-topic BTW, I have done a few things to free up ponies/mpg: Removed A/C system and Mechanical fan Removed Power steering pump and looped lines Removed leaky EGR vacuum lines and associated stuff and plugged holes Removed Bumpers (Saved 70lbs there) With 220k, oil leaks, dragging clutch, and old original Coil, the car is noticeably peppier, and I have gotten a best of 36mpg on a road trip loaded down with camping gear.

So after 220k of reliable service, my front cv axles are starting to die. My rears, however, have hardly been used at all. I have a S/R 5spd tranny and was thinking of trying RWD out for awhile as I really never use 4wd. Do I just remove the front axles and leave it in 4wd? Is there any benefit to doing this?

Bump anyone?

I have removed my power steering pump and the lines running back to where they connect with the metal lines on the passenger side of the engine bay- looped a piece of hose between the two lines. I am wondering if I can remove the metal lines where they come out of the box itself and plug them with the proper thread bolts. Or do they need to be looped to allow pressure to move in between them?

Who would do that to such a wonderful friend? It's like beating your dog!

So think I solved the problem. There is a thermosensor (?) that plugs in right in front of the EGR valve that I guessed was opening the EGR and causing a vacuum leak, then causing the high idle. I unplugged it and the problem went away. I also plan to bypass the Idle Air Control valve instead of taking my chances with a junkyard item. An old subaru mechanic showed me how. I'll post a description once I'm finished.

Bump

The vacuum source for the EGR came from the nipple where I plugged in the 4x4 vacuum line. There used to be a T there for both lines- I just pulled off the EGR stuff and plugged the 4x4 line into the intake manifold. Also, this problem is occurring on warmup only. Once the engine reaches temperature, everything's fine.

Canister came with 4 barbs, but only three were in use in my motor- the 4th was capped off from the factory. Where would the purge line be coming from? I'm planning to plug each solenoid back in one at a time and see if it makes any differerence, for lack of anything else to do.

My car is a 1988 DL S/R 5mt wagon, SPFI. So after reading many posts on here, I felt ready to remove my EGR system. It had many cracked/broken lines and the computer continuously throws a trouble code as not functioning. Not worth replacing/fixing. Here is what I did: removed vacuum canister, removed two lines going into throttle body and capped them. Removed EGR and EVAP solenoids- just unplugged from harness. Removed vacuum line from EGR. There is a vacuum line that as far as I can tell runs through a solenoid to the transmission for the 4x4 vacuum hubs. I plugged that line directly into the vacuum 'nipple' (whatever it's called) that comes off the intake manifold directly forward of the EGR valve. So now I have two plugged lines into the throttle body, vacuum pulling directly from the intake manifold to 4x4 solenoid, and all that's left is the gas tank vent which is just open for now. Now, after initial warmup or driving for a few minutes, the car idles really high, I would guess 3000 rpms or so (no tach yet). It only does this for about 5 minutes, then all is normal once the car reaches operating temperature. My Idle Air Control valve had malfunctioned in the past and doesn't work all that great, but this problem cropped up after removing the emissions stuff. Did I miss something or disconnect too many wires? Would appreciate any insight.

Ok thanks for the detailed help guys. I have some more things to check as far as wiring goes, but here are some things to rule out. Yes I put the proper amount of Ester oil in the compressor and lines after draining all the mineral oil out. I rented a vacuum pump and did it myself- have done so before. Vacuumed down to 20+ hg for several hours. I haven't overcharged the system as it only has about 16oz of 134a in it. When the system was apart, there were no blockages that I could detect- everything blew through good with compressed air. I jumped the pressure switch by the condenser with no effect. It does make an electrical sound somewhere when the A/C is turned on, and that same sound when the pressure switch is jumped, so I think those are both working. I thought it might be the expansion valve in the evaporator in the dash, but there is equal pressure on both high and low sides so that rules that out. 100 psi was while the compressor was NOT running- I didn't check when I jumped it- will have to do that. I was told by an A/C shop that a high pressure side reading of 2.5 times the ambient air temperature was appropriate- they didn't mention low pressure side max. The clutch on the compressor is working fine. I believe the compressor didn't blow cold air because there is not enough refrigerant in the system- about 16oz. So...next to check is the "belt protection system." Dogbone, can you just jump the wires from the relay where they plug in to the connector just behind the compressor? One more thing to throw in there: This system is from a carbed ea82, and mine is spfi- does this make a difference? All the connections were the same. Thanks!

So I now live here in Sunny Hot Southern Arizona and would like to have working A/C. I have done some a/c work before, and am familiar with the process to clean out an old r12 system, flush it, dry it out, and evacuate the system before putting in the new 134a. So I did all that on my 88dl, new 134a valves, vacuumed and checked for leaks. Everything good. Then I began to add the 134a into the system, and the compressor will not turn on. It will turn on if I run power directly from the battery. I did that for awhile and it pulled a little more refrigerant in, and now both high and low sides read about 100 PSI, but then it seemed like the compressor was having trouble turning. I checked each component individually for blockages before I put the system back together, and everything blew air through fine. My best guesses as to the problem are: bad low pressure switch, or expansion valve not working. Well, I can't FIND a low pressure switch! There is a switch on the high pressure side between the condenser and the drier, but nothing on the low pressure side. I do not know how to check the voltage for that high side switch. The expansion valve is up in the dash along with the Evaporator, and I'd rather not have to get at that if I don't have to. This would probably be better off posted on an A/C site, but no one seems to know much about the old subarus. Anyone have any ideas?

Yeah I think I want to keep my 4lug rims for now, at least until I do the 2.2 swap. Guess I'm looking for EA82T rear disc setup.

found a complete xt6, but the guy's not sure if he wants to part it out or not. Then I gotta get new wheels and tires too. Any thoughts/help? Bump.

So the rear drums on my 88 DL S/R 4x4 are toast. Since I'm planning an EJ swap soon anyway, can I get a disc brake setup from a legacy? The local U-Pull-it has a few legacys but no GLs. I want to do a 5 lug swap anyway. What exactly do I need to pull from the donor car to do this? OR, can I get parts from the local auto shop for GL rear discs instead? Which would be cheaper/easier/lighter/better? I have space to work but no specialty tools.