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Skeptic, So if the belt-driven fan is the AC fan, why does it run all the time?

I'm a regular hypermiler; read the ecomodder website thoroughly. Things i have done so far: Antenna tucked, stock size tires at 40lbs (44lb max), side mirrors folded in, 5spd short shifting, EOC as much as possible, nothing sticking out on the outside to create drag, car is always empty of stuff, 55-60 max mph during mpg testing, etc. Soobiedoo you said the AC fan is already set up to come on via thermostat? I thought it ran on a switch when the AC was turned on? The fan blades are different between the belt and the electric fan as well.

As far as the belt-driven fan, it runs all the time. I don't think there is a clutch there. Removing the AC got rid of about 50lbs of dead weight. Gotta keep the 4wd system, otherwise I would drive a Honda. Does anyone have experience using the electric AC fan with the thermostat switch in the radiator? Front diff makes a lot of noise, and I need a new clutch- it probably drags a bit. I also want to improve power as well as mpg. Yes, this is an experiment since I have about $450 total into the car.

I'm trying an experiment to improve power and fuel economy on my 88 Wagon. I removed the A/C system; can I remove the belt-driven fan and hook up the electric fan to work with the radiator thermostat? How hard is it to remove the catalytic converter? I've heard removing the EGR system will improve power and mileage as well. The best I have gotten is 32mpg on the highway. 204k miles. Already did the distributor, plugs, new air filter, etc. Does anyone have experience with any of these things?

Took the Subee on a 1000 mile road trip this week. Still has the above problems.

Thanks for the tips. The car sat for about a year, and has only been on two highway trips (total about 100 miles) since I got it running again. I sprayed cleaner down the IAC body. Now it only varies when the car is warmed up. It does make a difference now when I pull off the IAC tube- seems to run better with it on. Checked for vacuum leaks, didn't find any major ones so far. Will check the sensors and EGR when I can. Does the EGR and PCV system improve mileage? Also, the car dies if I push the clutch in when the rpm's are up. If I give it a little gas right after pushing in the clutch it doesn't die. I think this might be linked to the IAC as well? Will post updates as I get to it. :banana:

Once the car is warmed up, the idle goes up and down. I was told by a mechanic that it might be the air control valve. I tried blocking it off and it made no difference. Can I remove this system? What other faulty emissions stuff can I remove for more reliability/hp/mpg? :banana:

I removed my A/C system (which is available for free, by the way) and still have the system's electric fan attached to the radiator. I was thinking about hooking it up to run as the primary cooling fan instead of using the belt-driven fan, to improve fuel economy. Has anyone done this? :banana:

Finally pulled the timing cover off the driver's side head, and lo and behold, the belt was not only off, but chewed up pretty good. New belt, tensioner springs, and the old gal started right up! Thanks for the help.

So, I pulled the distributor cap and it rotates just fine. It's pretty new as well. I will pull the timing belt cover and have a look-see but head gasket or worse is sounding very likely. Also, last time it ran it blew white smoke pretty bad, and the coolant level is low after filling it up before testing began.

Have not checked the timing, but did compression test today, and the left-side cylinders both test 0, so I'm thinking a blown head gasket at least, if not a cracked head. Is it worth doing the heads, or should I get a new motor? I imagine it's pretty tired at 200k anyway.

My '88 DL with 200k refuses to start. Not even a slight catch. turns freely. I have checked the fuel delivery (spfi), checked the spark (New distributor etc.) and it looks good. I tried doing a compression check by turning the motor over, and I can't get an accurate reading. Maybe I'm not doing it right. Any other things that could be wrong? I am suspecting bad head gasket leaks. It has newer timing belts.

I was told it blew White smoke like crazy the last time it ran about a year ago. Compression is bad, stuck the little lighted camera thingy down into the spark plug holes and there is some rust on the driver's side cylinder walls. New timing belts, new cap/rotor/wires, good spark, good fuel delivery. Seems to be the best option. The motor has 200k, and I've heard the heads on these motors tend to fail around then. You think I can get a decent used motor for $285? Or twice that?

I have a fuel injected ea82 and I'm pretty sure it needs new/rebuilt heads. Where's a good place to get some in Western Washington? Price? A local guy said they are very hard to find and cost $285 per head for rebuilt.

Hey, new on here. I was given a '88 DL wagon that currently doesn't run. Winter project! This will be my first project from DNR. Eventually planning to have this as my daily beater/ long haul car. Currently has 203k and heads that leak like a sieve.