Ceejus
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Posts posted by Ceejus
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and i have a question i though some of you may be able to help me with. i wasn't sure where to put this question, so i thought i'd just put it here... i am looking at a neighbor's 1997 Impreza Outback Sport wagon. it has 178K miles. he isn't sure if the timing belt has ever been replaced. it needs a hood, passenger side door, a couple of tires, brakes (not sure if it needs rotors, drums, both or just pads/shoes), and the rear drive shaft is MIA. he said the rear diff has been rebuilt, but he never put a rear drive shaft in it for some reason. i could totally see the guy just being lazy and not bothering. it also has a little bit of rust bubbling up on the left rear fender lip. anyway, he said his bottom dollar was $1000. i was thinking more in the $500 range. what do you all think?
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welcome, but you should get rid of the Jeep and get a lift kit from HighGuys and lift your Subaru, lots of fun, we have lift kits available for your subie....And also for the 06 Outback.....
oh man, i don't know if i could get rid of my Jeep or not. i would have to find something like an early GL with a dual range trans and like 6" of lift on 31's. which i would LOVE to find by the way!
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hey if you do get this car, and decide to sellit in the future, i would be interested. i am a hoosier born and raised (fort wayne, auburn)!
if i land myself a d/r ea82 soob one of thes days i can trade you plus cash difference. for future reference. good luck with the legacy*jealous*
i'll keep that in mind.
i've already been doing some research on tires and what i think i may be able to stuff in there after the 2 or so inches of lift from the OB struts and springs.
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dont be afraid of this car. if everything is in good working order, then it is worth between 500 and 1,000
if it was not for the rust its an easy 1200-1500 dollar car.
for less than 1000 expect to find something with a bad automatic, blow head gaskets, or millions of miles, or completely rusted out. and if that scares you off, then finding something newer with less miles will be more prone to head gaskets than the older design.
i would say this car is worth getting into, just work the price down what you can. otherwise if you walk away from it, you will have to tell yourself 'you either want a subaru or you don't'
personally i would go towards 750 for this car, if i had the money.
you should expect to do a water pump and timing belt at 200,000 miles if it has not been done already. this engine can easily see 300,000 miles on its original head gaskets. other than that, typical axle boots or wheel bearing.
the mileage is just right to have plenty left
i can deal with some rust i have a mig welder. the mismatched bumper covers don't bother me a bit. that front one will come off and get scrapped anyway. i'll weld up a steel bumper with a winch plate for it!
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well, i'm supposed to go check it out tomorrow. hope it's decent and he'll come down on price considerably. if not, i'll save some more $ and keep looking.
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thanks for the info! obviously, we'd all like to have a GL with dual range trans., but it seems as though they are all in the pacific northwest!
maybe i'll have one of them at some point, but i haven't seen one anywhere near here yet. shipping one from there to here isn't feasible either. so, i'll have to take what i can get for now. i really think this is a decent car more than likely, and it's an easy 2" lift with OB struts and springs. i think it can be made into something cool for not a lot of $. we'll see what happens when i check it out! -
did some reading up on the torque bind thing. at it's worst, it doesn't look like a horrible or impossible job. but it does look like a good bargaining tool if it's there.
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Another thing that was missed. This car was used for some sort of towing. That puts considerable strain on the powertrain. You don't know how much this poor car was abused and from the pictures, this car didn't live a life of leisure. I tow a 24' camper with a 1/2 ton truck and know how much it gets abused even though it's suited to what I do to it. A Soob really wasn't meant to tow even though any car can tow a very light trailer. Still, you have no idea what was towed and how heavy it was much less how often.
I'd wave $500 in unmarked bills under his nose and no more.
i noticed that flat 4 trailer plug laying there too, and you can just barely see a hitch ball in one of the pics. it would be interesting to know what exactly was pulled behind it. i wouldn't be too worried if it was just a motorcycle trailer or something like that. a camper however, would be a different story.
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Bad axles result from torn boots that allows dirt to enter the CV joints. Check for torn rubber boots at each end of the half shafts (axles) by looking under the car. It is difficult to do this without raising the front end to get a good look at the half shafts. Suggest this being done at a repair garage, where the car can be put up on a lift, or it can be done driving the front up on small portable ramps.
Is this car 2 wheel drive or all wheel drive? Torque bind is only an all wheel drive problem. It can be diagnosed, when driving, if the steering seems to bind up on turns, thus the name torque bind.
Most I would pay would be $500, or $495 if owner lets you keep the $5 bill resting in the cubby hole in front of the shifter.
thanks! looking at the cv boots won't be a problem. the car is an all wheel drive car. if it were fwd i wouldn't even be considering it. is torque bind an issue that can be fixed or is it not worth the time, trouble and money?
i was wondering about that fiver too!
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looks great!!!
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how would i know if it has bad axles or torque bind?
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that's actually around the ballpark i was thinking. and yeah, i noticed the sun visor in the seat pocket too hahaha!
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i'm going to look at a 1990 Legacy LS wagon this weekend. the guy wants $1000 for it. 141K on the clock, 5 speed full time AWD car. supposed to run and drive good. got a few rust spots, but really not too bad. it's been on craigslist long enough that the ad expired. that being said, i think i could get it for less..... here are some pics. i'd like to know what some of you folks think it's worth at a glance. i know that you can't give a really accurate estimate from a few pics, but a ballpark figure would be good enough. also, is there anything i should specifically look for on these cars that is a deal breaker? thanks!!!
ps. yes, i did notice the check engine light being on in the one pic.
i'd like for it to end up looking something like this....
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Rod knock is uncommon and mis-diagnosed all the time. Especially with the EA82 as they often have a lifter tap that can sound like the end is nigh.
Trust me - it's almost surely not a rod knock. Rod knock on an EA isn't even audible unless it's under load and even then it's just a light tapping that wouldn't arouse suspicions - right up till it's about to leave the crank - then they get real loud for about a mile.
GD
hmm.....makes me want to go ahead and look at it now.
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make sure the sound described is actually lifter tick. its common, but not devastating.
the gl is mechanically the same and is a better choice if its not in worse condition than the loyale(miles and rust)
yep. the guy said it had lifter tick AND a definite rod knock.
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well, i learned via this forum that someone else has looked at the Loyale and said it has a definite rod knock. i think that ruins it for me....back to searching!
however, i have found an 87 GL wagon. i e-mailed about it and am awaiting a response.
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well, i learned via this forum that someone else has looked at the Loyale and said it has a definite rod knock. i think that ruins it for me....back to searching!
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thanks for the replys folks! i'm gonna go check it out hopefully on friday or saturday sometime.
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you wouldnt expect to find much for hardcore of road in central indiana, maybe some quarry pit at best.
i'll make my own opinion here and say that the loyale is tot horrible, it accomplishes the task of something you can just go into a field to and from work!
the only pain in the rump roast factor with a loyale vs an ea81 is the timing belts. they are not the end of the world at all. its part of the charm of these vehicles
but it is truly fun to drive a car around some 4wheeler trails that wou wont be able to fit a big truck
and i'll say this because any ea81 or ea82 subaru is a rare treat in central indiana, you just dont find them there.
go with the loyale for now. maybe a gl will pop up in the future, certainly a dual range transmission can turn up somewhere and be had for 150 bucks, completely bolt in.
the best aspect of thee cars are they are very compatible and swappable with other variants and models
cool, thanks!
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thanks for the info.
would the Loayale REALLY be that bad of a car to lift and play a little with?
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If you want something to lift and play with get an EA81 Hatchback. The Loyale is not what you want at all.
You need to look for an EA81 Hatch - 1982 to 1989.
EA82's are too heavy, poor departure angle, etc. Plus the engine's suck and the cooling system's suck even harder.
And a loyale has no low range - you would have to swap out the tranny first thing.
At the very least hold out for a late '80's GL with a dual-range transmission.
GD
i would probably never find one of those around here that is in any kind of shape at all besides rotten. plus, i'm a fan of wagons. the thing honestly would probably see very little off road time. it would be more daily driver than anything. i will stil keep my eyes peeled though. thanks for the input.
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i'm trying not to get my hopes up to much for this thing. i don't want to be disappointed if i can't get it, or if it's a total pile of crap......but i must admit, i'm getting kind of giddy about the prospect of getting it!
hope my wife doesn't kick me out of the house if i get it... -
i would check the idle air valve for some debris. also the air filter if its been sitting, might find a rats nest, i did.
where the heck is the air idle valve?
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watch out for cooling system issues -- those can lead to blown head gaskets from overheating, eventually. And figure that the timing belt hasn't been changed forever unless they have proof otherwise. Oil leaks are pretty normal... as long as it's not losing too much, it's just rust prevention. The only other thing to really watch out for is old carburetors as they are more expensive than the car sometimes, but yours has SPFI, so that's not a concern.
You'll want to put a dual range transmission in it -- direct bolt in.
Z
so is a head gasket job very difficult at all? is it really something that is a big deal to worry about, or should i just automatically do it if i get the car? i'm a total Subaru idiot. i only know the basics about these cars, but i have a pretty decent mechanical knowledge of cars in general.
also, never having anything but 4x4 trucks and jeeps, how exactly does the 4 wheel drive work in these things? is there an actual transfer case like a regular 4x4?
and yes, i WILL want a dual range transmission if i get this thing.
Been a while since i've been on here....
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thanks folks!!! he wouldn't go any lower on the price, so i passed on it. found another car though. hope to check it out soon.