gotsubarus

it wont ratle when you get it in... you will see when you remove the heater box... but if worried you can get some foam and put it on it... But around the inlets is the padding material you will see when you remove the heater box from fire wall. Dont look at it as a whole and something to be hard to do its not hard it just takes time and removal of bolts it like a puzzle

Thanks Josh... I havent looked at it closely yet to see what all it has that you mentiond, but i did notice that it has Black door handles! course the grill is missing so i dodnt know what it had!

What is the Diffences in a 94 Ti AWD 5sp and any other legacy? I have had the L's and the LS and the LSI but now ive got a Ti... its been sitting here for a few months but never payed any attention to it till today and i know it has different interior than all the other legacy's i have seen and it had Air struts at one time that have been swapped out. and it is Pearl White, but are there any other differences in this and other Legacy's?

Sunflow99, I wouldnt think that you would be having the same problems as them, you have the 95 which is the 2.2L where they have the 97 with 2.2 which has alot of head gasket problems! I will send you a PM

hey i got one for $50 + shipping, it shouldnt be more than $12 to ship it. If you dont see a noticable leak, but you smell it then it is probably leaking, it doesnt take much to leak out and make a big smell when the core gets hot

Just get a used one and put in it. I have only ever instaled two heater cores since 1990 that were leaking. The other three were because of damage to the box because of an accident. I have a few used ones even with low milage. I replaced the other leaking ones with used ones and one is still on the road today the other one the guy drove it for 300K and wore the car out.

I have done about 5 of them, But i have also removed the dash on about 20 of them just parting out some cars. If you need help, I will see if i can get some pictures and some detail instructions when i take out one this week.

I believe you have a head Gasket problem... The only Craked head is on the shoulders of the guy that feed you the BS about all the damage and the high cost. I just replaced the head gaskets i on a 98 forester and it cost the guy 875.00 ... I Replaced the head gaskets intake gasket valve cover gaskets oil seals ( cams, crank, rear main seal, and re sealed the Oil seperator plate) new timming belt changed the oil changed the Spark plugs and new Anti Freeze I removed and replaced the heads and when they were off i cleaned them with cleaners and checked for cracks which i have never found one and used a straight edge to check for warpage. If the mechanice knows how to remove the head carfully the right way the heads should not warp!

You will have to remove the dash consol first......... then the piece under the stearing wheel and the two bolts holding the stearing wheel up, then the dash. then the cross member support bar, then you will be able to remove the heater core box. Will take about you an hour to remove since its your 1st time. The good thinbg is you can leave everything in the dash together, just make sure you disconect the cables going to the heater box on each side undereneath

You might have a stopped up radiator? Replacement radiators are worth the 120 - 150 you might pay for them, thats very little to put in your car to save the life of your car. Also the oil leak is probably your front seals! Cheak to see if they were replaced when you had the belts done...

Thanks Tolerance...I couldnt remember Unless i was laying upside down in the floor board looking threw one eye at it...LOL If you do it without loosing some skin let me know, Darn it I always loose some skin!

On the left hand Kick panel above the fuse box, near the top of the dash.....LOL, Yep real fun to get to. Anyway if you look in the manual i think it is the green plug in, not 100% shure because it could be the brown one.... I dont have my manual right here beside me but i think it is the green plug in. If you dont have a manual just do the green one first, if that doesnt do it do the brown , and then white. They are the same relay's

Are you talking about the inner door handle...( Having to push the unlock button while opening the door? ) And the driver door lock not unlocking with the Key ( key just turns around and around without locking or unlocking? ) I have several outer handles and some extra out locks and i have several iner handles that i have repaird

Now if you want real beef... Then I got a Legacy B4 twin turbo A/T Its a 4.44

what kind of sentra? 2dr , 4dr , plain , se , se-r.... A/T or Man?

Yes you can just take the belt off and unplug the compressor if you want also...

yes i have quit a bit of wireing harnesses laying around... what year is your suby? I got a cpl of dead motors here with good wiring......

Also you can request right here on the parts section of this board! There are alot PPL here with extra parts for sale, on cars that they have parted out. I have a few off a 97 OB and there are some in WV I cant remember his screen name....

In my oppinion i would clear the codes... and then take it to a trans shop or mechanice shop that has a trans flushing machine. Here it costs me about 85 bucks to have a shop flush about 20 qt's threw it till it is clean. It has fixed quit a few sticking valves in the trannies and have extended the life a few of these trannies and made them shift better..... NOT saying that it will fix evryones problems but it hasnt hust any of mine! If that doesnt fix your problem then go for the codes again and maybe change the TCU ( I have a few of them around here ) and if that fixes it then you will have a cleean flushed tranny with clean fluid in it!

Sorry to hear that! Did you see the head with the bent valves for yourself? Becuase i for one have never seen bent valves on a 2.2.... Sounds like whoever was doing the work on your car doesnt know much about the 2.2's or had brains enough to change your seals when they did the belt. As for the lawyer... well the garage will say that you blew it up by not taking care of it or ruff driving unless you got some real good maintenance records... hard to prove their neglect. It would be cheaper in the long run to just get another engine... lmdew has a 96 motor for sale for 450 I dont know what shipping from Colorado would be. I have one in a 95 that runs great.. Labor to remove & instal shouldnt be more than 250 or you would be getting ripped off... it calls for 4.5 hours

I think you are having the same problem as me! You can get it started with enough cranking, but then you wont have fast idle it will putter till it warms up... I am getting ready to change the IAC valve today..If that doesnt work i will change the Crank sensor. I will let you know what happens!

How do you run the codes on a 94 Impreza? Check Engine light is on .. and this thing is hard to start when cold. When you start it you have to crank it a few times and then it will barly idle ( cant give it gas or it will die ) then after about a minute or two you can give it gas and it will sputter befor running and clearing out! Anyone had this problem?

After Market is about 77.00.... What color is yours?

You could use one from an outback, but you will have to change the rear end also because of the gear ratio's. The SVX uses a 3.54 ratio and the outback use 3.90 i think or 4.11 I have a good Legacy B4 twin turbo tranny that would work great in the SVX but the ratio is 4.54 so you would have to get a rear end out of a Forester...You would loose you top speed but think of the take off power:cool:

Anyone familiar with the breather tube on the top? I tired to blow threw it and couldnt... then i tried to vacume threw it and couldnt suck threw it.... I am asuming that something is clogged up. I have another tanny out that i can suck or blow threw. So any ideas on what to do next?