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Ok, thats what I was thinking; 180 on the crank is 90 on the cam. That clears it up for me.

I always adjust them when I have the heads off. Tell me about doing it with the belt on. Manual says LH side crank arrow up is TDC, do #1, then rotate 180, do #3, rotate 180 do #2, rotate 180 do #4. However, i see people doing it TDC then 90º, then another 90, etc. I'm assuming it can be done either way?

I've been using these belts/idlers for 15 years without an issue. Just don't see it as a belt failure..... yet. Going to dig more, we'll see

Auto. I have never seen a belt break like this. Not disagreeing with you though. Its not like there is a lot of stress on the belt when its rotating. If something had locked up. I would think I would notice something on the cog side. I'll have to take a better look.

Me. No damage. Thats what I was thinking too. I dont know what though.

Belt.....

'02 OB belt broke, said she was doing 70. Pass side exhaust valves are bent. Belt was 11k miles on it and it looked like someone tried to pull a stump with it. I was expecting to find a camshaft welded or snapped, both were fine. What am I missing?

I found heads. Everything for me has to be online. Any machine shop, parts yard, etc is 150+ miles away.

I'm having no luck finding heads without getting borked. Where's a good place for valves, seats, guides?

No oil consumption or leaks. 200k 2nd owner, very well maintained. It goes away 90% but pretty quiet warmed up..

I have a good driver but it has piston slap. Belt apparently broke. Do I bother putting rebuilt heads on it since it has slap?

Thats what it was. Pump was either creating too much suction or thrashing too much air, etc. Pulled thermostat, opened it up and stuck an aspirin in it to hold it open. Put it back in, all is now right in the world.

The thermostat was just fine before I put the pump in, its not that. There was never an issue until a pump the water pump in. Head gaskets dont go. bad by putting a new water pump in. I do however think its the aftermarket pump I put in, cavitation. I ran it without a thermostat for 20 minutes.

Using a Stant thermostat. A thermostat is a thermostat. Either it works or it doesnt. I have put 2 of them in boiling water and the both open evenly. 2 days ago, the thermostat was fine. I've done at least a handful of these with no issues. When it was good and hot, I popped the thermostat out....the one that I have been using with no issues......it was still closed. I honestly think its steam pockets thats causing it. Lower hose is cool but trust me, there are no air pockets. I pulled every line off the top of the engine and bled it that way. Water pump has good circulation with the thermostat out.

New water pump. I flushed the block both ways and there are no blockages, nor clogged lines. This is my car. Its not the headgaskets. I ran it 20 miles with no thermostat. Its a new long block I built 9k miles ago. I've been driving it daily with no issues. You dont just drain coolant one day and have it all fall apart the next day. There was nothing wrong with the car before I drained the coolant. What I am thinking is that pure water is boiling fast, creating steam pockets and not letting the thermostat open. Now that I have slept on it some.

I've only been wrenching for 50 yrs so this should be easy for me. Did timing belt, water pump, etc. Car was fine but for a water pump leak. All back together and I cant get the bottom hose hot. Thermostat isnt opening my guess. I've put a known good one in and another. Everything is fine with no thermostat, good circulation, etc. I've burped it to the best of my ability. Pulled a heater hose, pulled the throttle body hose. There is no air in the system. Thermostat is inserted into the block, tit out. Not head gaskets, car was perfect before I apparently borked it. What in the world am I missing??

Disregard, after taking the exhaust pipe and poking around, I've concluded this in not an issue.

I am having some thoughts I might have seen a squirrel while torquing my heads. How do I double check the torque a few thousand miles in? I am asking because of the Subaru wizardry that is involved with the torque process, not because I dont know how to torque a head.

.6" taller and .4" narrower. Dont care about looks, just snow travel.

Currently is 225/60/17. So these would be a little taller and narrower. I'm just trying to figure out how tall I can go on a stock Outback and what will fit my wheels. These are 4 new, studded tires for $200. If they'd be a good fit I'd jump on them.

Will these snow tires fit without issues and will they fit my OEM wheels?

To answer my own question for others maybe needing it: Take all of the center console apart. Take the piece off where your gas pedal foot rests Take off the lower piece under the steering wheel. It houses your ODB port. Lay inverted, resting your head on the brake pedal. Look up towards the radio and you will see the cable attached to the knob control. Best of luck.....

I have the FSM but didnt actually see how to access it, or much about it at all. I have learned that it is a cable operation. Its just one, not both sides of vehicle. I'm just trying to figure out exactly where it is and what I need to remove to find it. [edit] I found it in the manual. Now to figure out how to check it without tearing all apart....yet.

I think its been stuck in "warm" since I got it Just now tried the A/C and you can feel the cool but the heat is mixed in with it. Shut A/C off and its definitely heat. How does this work? I'm still in the cable days for heat control.

Ahhh...thats not covered by the timing covers.