opus

Thanks.

Thats the seal.

Both B's go together facing the block, correct?

I pulled the HLA's out of the donor. They are pumped up nicely. Should I still soak them in gunk or call it good and just install them? Pulled the donor oil pump out as well. To what degree should I pull this apart so I can soak it and reseal it? Pull out all the springs and whatever else there is to do a total disassemble? I'm in no hurry to get this done at this time.

Heck, I cant even find a junk yard within 150 miles. Great, thanks.

I have a donor engine. Can I do the following: Remove the oil pump, inspect it, reseal it and put it on my turbo engine? Remove the rocker assembly, pull the HLA's, soak them in carb cleaner, then an ultrasonic bath, prime them, reinstall them in the rockers and put that assembly on my turbo engine? Everything compatible?

Got them off.....

No, good to sell.

OK, they are all 140-150. Thanks.

What should this be?

Oh, sorry. I didnt ship and engine. The way it works is you input what you are shipping, where to where. People will then start giving you quotes. Obviously box it, crate it, etc to make it easy for them to come an load it. May be someone with a van, a pickup...anything.

I've done this before: http://www.uship.com/

I dug and dug to find tips on how to do this, didnt find much so thought I would add this here. With car on ground, remove nut on top of shock Lift rear of car Top of shock will either fall out of the top hole or not. Whack, whack, whack the spring and knock off all the mud and you will see that there is no tension on the spring. If your springs are on anything but the lowest setting you may need to help by standing on the hub/rotor. 1 of mine fell out of the hole, the other didnt. Bang up on the plate at bottom of spring to loosen it from mud or rust if you have it. Penetrating oil might be needed. Once you loosen it all up, adjust and reassemble. Its pretty straight forward and if you have trouble just sit there and look at it for a minute, it will come to you. Make sense?

#1 - replaced it and the plug. #2 - cold start was perfect this morning. It started great without touching the throttle. #3 - I have. Found one in the beginning of time but that was it. Maybe check - have no idea what that is. I have kicked, twisted and fondled everything I can find. Car runs great one the fuel pressure seems to build up and the pump shuts off. You can actually feel it driving down the road. When the pump is running on hot start it runs kinda like the engine should be "choked" to get more fuel. Once it gets to where the fuel pump is going to shut off it runs great. Anything before that time and the idle will be down around 450 and not wanting to stay running. It wont die, but makes you think it will. From what I recall, I have never heard a fuel pump run consistent at idle. There is a good possibility the fuel pump was wired in backwards, well, there is a 50/50 chance. Would it run if it was pumping the other way?

Replaced the wire....nothing different except I have a better terminal and piece of wire now. Humor me; what would happen if the fuel pump was wired backwards? Also, how long should the fuel pump run while the car is idling? All the time?

Easy enough for the time I had today. The wire to the alternator wasnt good so I repaired it. We'll see. Points???

What I did have to do quite a while ago was to ground the fuel relay [under steering wheel] to the body because there was no ground to the relay. Hmmmm.....

Where do I find this regulator? So fuel psi in should be 36psi and return psi should be?

Well, for the time and money it would take me to get someone to check the fuel pressure, I might be further ahead just to get a pump and replace it.....if thats what this we think this is pointing to.

I don't have the ability to check that. However would that cause the car to not idle right and 1 mile later have it idle fine? The car runs perfect but for that time after hot restart. If there was flooding there would be hot start smoke.

I pulled all the plugs before a warm start, plugs are fine. Changed the CTS. No indication of it being coolant either. Been running Seafoam as well.

Already tried that. Played with the high idle screw too but that didnt seem to do anything. Its kinda like [carb speak] the idle circuit is dirty? I tested the TPS and adjusted it as well.

Start it cold, idles high like normal then it warms up and goes to idle like it should. Drive 20 miles, stop, shut it off. Come out 5 mins later and start it and it's hard to start, almost like it's too lean. Once it starts it tries to idle at 450, stumbles but won't die. Drive it a mile, runs fine and will then idle fine around 750. When I start it cold I have to hit the throttle once or it will crank for a while before it starts. Ready, set...go.

Should be just below the turbo.

Sounds like a bad ground to me.